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LYON

9 reasons to move to France’s ‘gastronomic capital’ Lyon

The French city of Lyon has come out on top of a new comparison for 'liveable' cities - here are some reasons you might consider moving there (apart from its reputation as the foodie capital of France).

9 reasons to move to France's 'gastronomic capital' Lyon
Should you move to Lyon? There are reasons to consider it. Photo: AFP

While the idea of the ’15-minute city’ has become the object of bizarre conspiracy theories in parts of the English-speaking world, it has been embraced by many French cities, who appreciate the simple idea that the daily necessities of life should be within a 15-minute walk or cycle for most city-dwellers.

Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo was an early-adopter of the concept back in 2020 – but many of France’s cities adhere to the basic principles, whether or not their leaders chose to use the phrase ville du quart d’heure (quarter-of-an hour town).

The phrase ’15-minute city’ may be relatively new, but the concept is a very old one among city planners – making sure that daily essentials such as food shops, schools, health services and parks are within easy distance for city dwellers.

Now the French newspaper Le Parisien has created its own ranking of how France’s cities accord to the 15-minute principle. And although Paris may have been the most vocal about its 15-minute city ambitions, it was a city some way to the east that topped the poll; Lyon. 

Here’s a look at some of the reasons that Lyon came out on top;

Green transport – Lyon is one of France’s top performers when it comes to kilometres of cycle paths per person and it’s also a good city for walking – 17 percent of people in Lyon walk to work, the second highest number in France (behind Nancy at 22 percent). 

As other French cities have found, a major driver to people choosing to commute by bike or on foot is the knowledge that there is a decent public transport network when they need it (for rainy days, for example) and here too Lyon scores highly.

“Lyon probably has the best public transport system in France: high service level buses, Metro, trams and cycle paths”, Benjamin Pradel, researcher in urban sociology, told Le Parisien.

Plenty of doctors – around one-third of France is classed as a ‘medical desert’, meaning that there are not enough healthcare practitioners to serve the local population. The problem is most acute in rural areas, but it does affect cities too, including several areas of Paris.

This however, is not a problem in Lyon, which has significantly more doctors per inhabitant than the French average, and the highest score for number of doctors and health centres within a 15 minute walk for Lyon inhabitants.

Schools – Lyon also scored high for the number of primary schools and nurseries within a 15-minute walk, giving parents plenty of choice. The scoring from Le Parisien also gave the town a high ranking for the choice of grocery shops and restaurants within easy walking distance for most people.

Cost – We’re not going to pretend that Lyon is a cheap place, but at an average cost of €5,000 per square metre, property is half the price of that in Paris. Nevertheless, Lyon is still a relatively expensive place compared to many of its neighbours.

It lost points on the scale for affordability, with the report noting that 33 percent of people who live within the city itself are workers at management level while only 23 percent are staff members.

“That’s one of the limits of this concept,” Marie Huyghe, a mobility consultant with a doctorate in urban planning, told Le Parisien. “If local living only concerns the highest income groups, then we can consider that it is not a success.”

Employment – the 15-minute city concept states that ideally all the things you need for daily life should be within a 15-minute walk or cycle ride, including work. But employment is the aspect that many cities struggle with and plenty of city dwellers still face long commutes to work – even if they can shop, socialise and exercise within 15 minutes of their home.

Lyon doesn’t come out markedly better on this scale than France’s other big cities, but it does have overall good prospects for employment, even if you may have to commute a bit longer. As France’s third largest city (after Paris and Marseille) Lyon has a varied employment offer from tech jobs to academic work, media jobs and retail or tourism opportunities. The city is a leader in medical research and medical tech, creating plenty of specialist jobs. 

It’s also the location of the Interpol HQ, if you have a particular set of skills. 

Green space – having space for both exercise and leisure close to home is a key concept of the 15-minute city and Lyon scores particularly well when it comes to green space. 

The average surface area of green space per inhabitant has increased by three metres squared over the past three years and the city overall can offer over 430 hectares of gardens, green squares and parks.

The city also scores well on other green indicators such as air quality and has been ranked among the ‘greenest’ cities in France thanks to some innovative policies from city hall.

Other reasons

The 15-minute city ranking tends to focus on the practicalities of daily life – but what are some other reasons you might choose to move to Lyon?

Connections – Lyon is well connected to the rest of France and the world, with the high-speed TGV service offering rapid connections to other cities around France. It’s also perfectly feasible to travel by train from Lyon to Switzerland, Italy or Germany.

If you’re looking to fly, Lyon has its own airport and is within a two-hour drive of Geneva airport, which offers a wide choice of global connections 

Gastronomy – we saved the best until (almost) last – yes food-loving France widely considers Lyon to be its ‘gastronomic capital’. This means that the city boasts an impressive restaurant selection including – but very much not limited to – the traditional bouchon restaurants.

There are too many Lyonnaise specialities to get into here (although special mention to the pink pralines, and the praline brioches) but for foodies a visit to the city’s giant food market Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is a must.

Sport – if you need to do something to work off all that food, then there are lots of exercise options within Lyon and the city is also within easy distance of the Alps for some hiking, cycling or ski-ing.

If you prefer to watch rather than play, Lyon has a top-flight rugby team (Lyon Olympique Universitaire) and a Ligue 1 men’s football team in Olympique Lyonnaise.

If you want more ground-breaking football though, Olympique Lyonnaise women’s team is the most successful ever at club level and their players form the backbone of the French national women’s team.

The success of the professionals is having a huge impact on grassroots football in the city too, which boasts an impressive network of junior teams and local clubs to introduce younger girls to the joys of the beautiful game.

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For members

BRITS IN FRANCE

9 things Brits need to know about moving to France since Brexit

There's no doubt that Brexit has made moving to France more complicated for Brits - but it is still possible. Here are some of things you need to know before making the move.

9 things Brits need to know about moving to France since Brexit

Brits who want to move to France now face a radically different process from those who took advantage of EU freedom of movement to make the move before Brexit. 

It’s a more complicated process – but it’s still possible and 8,700 UK nationals moved to France in 2023

Here are some of the big things you need to know before making the move.

1 Visa

The biggest post-Brexit change is that Brits moving to France now require a visa (unless they have dual nationality with an EU country).

The visa must be applied for first, and only when it is granted can you make the move – you cannot come to France and then apply for residency (unless you are covered by the Withdrawal Agreement, more on that below).

There are various different types of visas depending on what you intend to do in France – work, study, retire etc – and many of them contain conditions eg people on a ‘visitor’ visa are not permitted to work in France.

It makes things less flexible as it’s harder to change your plans once you have arrived. It also means that it’s harder to have a ‘half and half’ lifestyle – eg retire from your day job and move to France to run a gîte or B&B.

Explained: What type of French visa do you need

The best visa type is undoubtedly the ‘Talent Passport’, so it’s worth checking whether you fit any of the criteria for this visa type

2 Residency card

Once you have your visa and have moved to France this is very far from being the end of the process.

You will need to apply for a residency card after a certain period (usually three months but different visa types have different rules) and according to your personal situation you may also be required to attend a compulsory medical, language classes and ‘integration’ classes through the French office of immigration and integration (OFII) – more on that here

READ ALSO Getting a French visa – what paperwork comes next?

3 Health cover 

When it comes to health there is some good news – Brits have retained many of their pre-Brexit rights to healthcare.

While you may need to provide proof of private health cover for your visa (depending on the visa type) once you have been resident in France for three months you are entitled to register in the French health system, which covers most of your medical costs.

Full details on how to register HERE.

Brits who are retired and have reached UK pension age also retain their right to an S1 – the status which entitles you to register in the French health system, while the UK continues to pay your medical costs.

4 Remote working 

The rise in remote working means that the dream of moving abroad seems much closer for working-age people – since you will be able to work remotely in your native language, maybe even keep your existing job and simply relocate.

While this is possible, you need to do careful research in advance to ensure that work is compliant with your visa and tax situation. Unlike some countries, France does not have a ‘digital nomad visa’ or other visa types aimed at remote workers, in fact the visa rules were written before remote working became widespread, which is why there are some grey areas.

Most lawyers advise getting a working visa (salarié if you are working remotely for a French company as an employee, or auto-entrepreneur for freelancers) and paying social contributions in France. Find full details on visa and tax implications.

READ ALSO France’s entrepreneur visa and how to get it

You also need to be aware that being a remote working can have an effect on your long-term plans in France – for example if after five years of residence you intend to apply for French citizenship you will need to prove that the ‘centre of your economic activity’ in in France. If all your work is done remotely for foreign companies then this could be a reason to have citizenship refused. 

5 Working restrictions 

If you want to work in France (remotely or not) you first need to check if there are any restrictions on your profession – certain types of work are ‘regulated professions’ in France, which means you will need specific French qualifications and/or registration within a French guild or professional organisation. The number of professions that are ‘regulated’ is surprisingly wide – taking in everything from chimney sweeping to hairdressing.

The next step is whether your qualifications will be recognised in France – EU countries generally recognise most of each other’s qualifications apart from in certain specific areas like medicine, but this is no longer the case for qualifications gained in the UK – more details here.

There are also certain jobs that are restricted to French citizens only, while others – including working in the public sector in positions including being a librarian – are limited to EU citizens only.

In visa terms, the simplest way for working-age people to come to France is as a salarié (employee) but to do this you will need a job already in place and your new employers will have to act as sponsors for your visa and may also be required to get a work permit for you. All of which means that Brits are less attractive as employees than EU citizens, which makes getting a job harder.

The other option is to be self-employed as either a freelancer, contractor or running a small business – this is a more complicated visa to get, requiring a detailed business plan. Once in France you need to register yourself as a small business/self-employed and register with Urssaf.

READ ALSO Urssaf – what is it and how does it work?

6 Tax

If you are living in France, then you will need to do the annual income tax declaration – even if all your income comes from abroad and you are retired/not working in France.

Full details on that HERE.

This was in fact the case before Brexit as well but previously there was a little more flexibility for people who split their time between France and the UK. These days if you want to be here for the majority of the year then you will need a visa/residency card, which removes much of the ambiguity about who is a ‘resident’.

The main post-Brexit difference is the rate at which prélèvements sociaux (social charges, similar to National Insurance) are charged on overseas income (eg earnings from work in the UK or income from renting out a UK property).

The rate is 7.5 percent for income from an EU country and 17.2 percent for income from a non-EU country – after Brexit, UK income switched to the non-EU rate.

7 Driving licence 

Foreigners who make France their home will sooner or later need to swap their driving licence for a French one. This too was the case even before Brexit, but many UK or NI licence holders never got round to making the switch, and there wasn’t a lot of enforcement of the rule.

This has now been tightened up and UK/NI licence holders will need to swap their licences for a French one – the exact details of when you make the swap are slightly different for Brits than from other non-EU nationals due to a specific UK-France deal. Find full details HERE.

If you want to bring a car with you from the UK to France, you will also need to re-register it as French – full details HERE.

8 Banks 

Most people moving to France will want to set up a French bank account for daily life, but you may also need a UK account, especially if you are a pensioner as some pensions will only pay into a UK account.

However since Brexit some of the biggest UK high street banks have been closing the accounts of their customers who do not live in the UK.

Alternatives include specific ‘expat’ accounts or internet banks – more details HERE.

9 The Brexit Withdrawal Agreement

It’s worth mentioning the Brexit Withdrawal Agreement even though most of it will not apply to newcomers. In brief, the citizens’ rights part of the Withdrawal Agreement covered people who moved to France prior to December 31st 2020, and intended to give them an easy way to remain in France and retain at least some of their pre-Brexit rights.

In general it does not apply to newcomers unless you are a close family member of someone who is covered by the Withdrawal Agreement – either a spouse or civil partner (in which case you must have married/ registered your partnership prior to December 31st 2020) or child. These people have a different path to residency, and can arrive in France and then request residency via the local préfecture of the family member who is already living here.

It’s also worth mentioning because of how different it is to the situation for new arrivals. It’s normal to ask Brits already living in France how they found the whole process – but if someone starts to tell you that getting residency is easy, the first question that you need to ask is when they moved here.

Those here prior to 2021 did indeed get an easy process – they had a special website to apply online for (free) residency cards and received straight away either a 5-year or 10-year card. This is a totally difference process to the one for Brits moving to France now.

If you’re asking around you would be better talking to Americans, Canadians or other non-EU nationals since their process is much more similar to that now in place for Brits.

. . . And new deals/visas/residency permits for Brits

Every now and again UK media will report which great excitement the possibility of a ‘new deal’ for Brits that will make moving to France, or buying a second home here, easier.

These reports should all be taken with a pinch of salt – there are currently no negotiations underway that would affect the process of Brits moving to France, and even if something is proposed in the near future it will likely take years to come into effect because these types of international agreements usually happen slowly.

A proposal for a ‘youth mobility scheme’ from the EU was rejected out of hand by British politicians before it had even been formally offered.

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