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DISCOVER SPAIN

Ten colourful characters you’re likely to spot at Spain’s popular beaches

Anyone who's spent time in Spain in summer will know that when you hit the main tourist beaches there are certain interesting characters you'll always come across, from the kitted-out Spanish families to the sunburnt foreign holidaymakers.

Ten colourful characters you're likely to spot at Spain's popular beaches
Beach-goers enjoy Barceloneta's beach in Barcelona. Photo: Pau BARRENA / AFP

The kitted-out familia

Let’s face it, there are always some who know how to do a beach day properly. While you’re there with your one measly baguette wrapped in foil, this family has brought slices of homemade tortilla, glasses of gazpacho, platters of perfectly-chilled cheese and ham, oh and abuela’s famous almond biscuits. And they’re not just sitting on a towel, no, they have brought fold-away tables and chairs, a cool box filled with ice-cold drinks and a stereo for that all-important summer soundtrack. Perhaps they have a mini tent to shade everyone from the sun too.

Deckchair? Check. Radio and headphones so I can listen to el fútbol? Check. Tortilla in tupperwear? Of course. (Photo by JOSE LUIS ROCA / AFP)
 

The local sun worshippers

One type of character that you’re sure to see all over Spain are the leathery-skinned locals who turn their bodies to face the sun, rather than the sea. They never burn and ensure they continuously flip themselves over like burgers so that they’re ‘well done’ on all sides. Spritzing themselves with oil occasionally to speed up the tan, they’ve come to the beach for one reason only. You’ll rarely see them swimming, playing beach paddle or building sandcastles. 

Many Spaniards love to roast in the sun. Photo: Jaime Reina/AFP 
 

The lobster-hued tourists who forget their suncream

You can spot them a mile off, and you just know that they’re not locals. Yes, it’s the scarlet-skinned visitors, who will most likely hail from the UK or Germany. Naturally, they don’t have a parasol and have forgotten that all-important sunscreen. They may have gone out partying the night before and have fallen into a hangover-fuelled sleep under the blisteringly hot Spanish sun.

You don’t need infrared to spot the northern European tourists in Spain, as many are already ultra-red. (Photo by JOSE JORDAN / AFP)

The paddle boarders who keep everyone entertained 

Stand-up paddle boards have become a big craze in Spain over the past five years or so and inevitably there will always be someone in the water who is trying it out for the first time. Everyone along the beach watches in anticipation as they climb up and wobble on the board before spectacularly splashing into the sea. As they try again and again, it becomes a bit of a joke for the spectators until the paddleboarder finally manages to get going, amid cheers from the shoreline.

Standup paddleboarding (SUP) is becoming increasingly popular at beaches in Spain. (Photo by LLUIS GENE / AFP)
 

The manteros 

No matter how many beach blankets or towels you come laden with, you will always be persuaded to buy another from the manteros, the name Spaniards have given those who sell mantels or cloths to sit on, on the beach. The manteros are often immigrants or refugees from West Africa and their colourful billowing pareos or beach blankets can be seen gently floating across the sand throughout the country. Even if you have one yourself, the exotic prints and elephant motifs make for a great gift to take back home, costing between €10 and €15.

A visit to some of the most touristy beaches in Spain can feel almost like being at a street market. Photo: LLUIS GENE / AFP
 

The roller skaters along the boardwalk 

Whether you’re on Valencia’s Las Arenas or Mallorca’s Playa de Palma Nova, you’ll find locals roller skating along the boardwalks just like in Miami or Los Angeles. Zipping in and out of the crowds with ease, they expertly navigate the chaos of the Spanish beach in summer.

Although e-scooter riders have taken over Spanish cities, skaters are still the stars of beach boardwalks. (Photo by JAIME REINA / AFP)

The enthusiastic beach volleyball players 

Before you reach the lines of sunbathers, on many beaches in Spain, you’ll pass the beach volleyball courts, where young, tanned locals and foreign residents alike are showing off their ball skills. No matter how hot the weather or the time of day, you’re sure to find them passing and spiking across the net and occasionally elegantly face-planting themselves in the sand. Want to join in? They’ll often be more than happy to let visitors join their games when the teams are uneven.

Wild dives to reach far-flung balls hurt a lot less if you fall on the sand, that’s for sure. Photo: Josep LAGO / AFP

The keepy-uppy crew

We’re sure you’ve often noticed the group of Spanish teens along the shorefront, all trying to keep a ball in the air – and if you haven’t, you’re bound to have heard them. Screaming and laughter ensue as they like to show off to other beachgoers, doing scissor kicks and back flips into the sea.

Keepy-uppy, scissor kicks and nutmegs: the beach shore is a chance for teens to show off their footy skills in Spain. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

The drink hawkers

Coca-cola, cerveza, agua, water, beer is the familiar sing-song-like tune you’ll hear being shouted across beaches from Barcelona to Málaga. They will ensure that even if you’ve forgotten your own, you can always enjoy a cold drink on the sand. But with several dozen hawkers trawling the sand from morning to dusk, you’ll find the phrase quite repetitive and will often be harassed to buy a drink, even if you have one already. Be aware that while drinks in sealed cans and bottles are ok, don’t be tempted by the hawkers trying to sell you cocktails in open cups as there are no hygiene standards. Barcelona City Council once analysed the mojitos sold on their beaches and they were found to contain fecal matter.

Don’t be tempted by the mojitos on Barcelona’s beaches. Photo: LLUIS GENE / AFP

The beach masseuses

If the beach wasn’t quite relaxing enough, you can always unwind further by enjoying a massage right on the sand. Often hailing from the likes of the Philippines, Thailand and China, countries known for their excellent massages, these masseuses will deftly get the knots out of your shoulders in no time. Be aware, some of them will just come up to you and start the massage without you ever having agreed to one. If you’re not interested just politely decline and they’ll leave, but if you’re happy and are willing to pay, just lie back and relax.  

Although not as prevalent as at beaches in South East Asia, masseuses do offer their services at Spain’s most touristy beaches. (Photo by INDRANIL MUKHERJEE / AFP)

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DISCOVER SPAIN

A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

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