SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

DISCOVER SPAIN

Seven of the least touristy places in Spain to visit over Easter

Looking to spend Easter in Spain but dreading the crowds? Here are seven places across the country where you're far less likely to encounter many tourists.

Seven of the least touristy places in Spain to visit over Easter
A partially submerged belltower in the Mediano Resevoir in Huesca province, one of numerous places in Spain where holidaymakers don't usually go over Easter. Photo: JM TD/Pixabay

Spain’s bigger cities like Madrid, Barcelona and Seville are always pretty packed with tourists. During Easter, when many countries have public and school holidays, they can be even busier than usual and getting around can become pretty difficult.

During Easter specifically, some towns and cities, most famously Seville, can be absolutely overrun with tourists during Semana Santa – Holy Week.

If you’re wanting to get away but don’t fancy facing the crowds, here are 8 of the least touristy cities in Spain to visit this Easter.

READ ALSO: What are the best cities in Spain to see the Semana Santa processions?

Badajoz

Badajoz is often ignored compared to its neighbours Cáceres and Mérida, but well worth a visit. The city of roughly 150,000 in the Extremadura region of western Spain sits on the border with Portugal and is much cheaper than visiting traditional tourist hotspots such as Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia and Seville over Easter.

Badajoz’s impressive Moorish citadel, located on the banks of the Guadiana river, is an extraordinary fortress from the Al-Andalus period and is one of the largest in Spain. The San Juan Bautista cathedral is another historical monument worth seeing. For those who’ve visited Seville, Badajoz also has a Giralda tower very similar to the one in the Andalusian capital.

Badajoz and the region of Extremadura as a whole welcome very few tourists. Photo: Alonso de Mendoza/Wikipedia.

Ciudad Real

Ciudad Real is a small city, with a population of around 75,000 people, found right in the centre of Spain in the Castilla-La Mancha region. It’s about a 2.5 hour drive south of Madrid.

For the literature fans among our readership, Ciudad Real is most commonly associated with the seminal novel in Spanish history (indeed arguably in world history) Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes. As such, one of the city’s main attractions is the Don Quixote museum, but the city has much to offer than literary connections. The Santa María del Prado cathedral and Plaza Mayor are of particular note. Close to Ciudad Real is Almagro, considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. 

Almagro is a short drive away from Ciudad Real city. Photo: Carlos Cuerda/Flickr (public domain)

Huesca

Another hidden gem is Huesca, in the Aragón region. Huesca is small, with a population of a little over 50,000, but the city and province that goes by the same name stand out and really punches above its weight for incredible historical heritage. In the old town alone, the smaller city boasts the San Pedro el Viejo monastery and the Cathedral of Transfiguración del Señor. 

The cathedral of Santa María de Huesca is arguably the most renowned and well known historical monument in the city. It is Gothic in style and was somewhere built between the 13th and 14th centuries by order of Jaime I — definitely worth a visit!

You can escape the crowds of tourists this Easter in the village of Torla in Huesca province (Aragón). Photo: Antonio López/Pixabay

Soria

Soria is a stunning little city in the Castilla y León region. It’s around a 2 hour drive from Zaragoza, and can be easily reached by public transport from Madrid in around 2 and a half hours.

The city also oozes history wherever you look. Soria’s Plaza Mayor, the heart of the city, is home to both the Fuente de los Leones and Casa de los Doce Linajes, which dates back to the 18th century and has neoclassical style. Soria also boasts the Church of Santo Domingo, considered one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in Spain.

San Juan de Duero Monastery on the outskirts of Soria. Photo: Diego Delso/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 4.0)

El Hierro

The smallest of Spain’s Canary Islands has fewer than 10,000 inhabitants and is a world apart from touristy Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. Dozens of trails through dense laurel forests, some of the best scuba diving Spain has to offer and quaint villages are some of its main draws. Above all, you’ll find it extremely easy to find peace and tranquillity in La Isla de Meridiano, considered for centuries to be the most westerly point in the world.  

Don’t expect traffic jams on the isolated Canary island of El Hierro. Photo: Simon/Pixabay

Camino Natural Senda del Duero

Another worthwhile Easter trip for nature lovers, ramblers and cyclists. The Camino Natural Senda del Duero is a very long trail that begins on the border of the provinces of La Rioja, Burgos and Soria in the highest peak of the Iberian mountain range, the Picos de Urbión. This is where the river Duero begins, and it then flows into Oporto before crossing Castilla y León from east to west for 750 kilometres.

Along the way are towns such as Aranda de Duero, Peñafiel, Almazán and Simancas, stops on a long tour through Castilian nature, history and tradition.

A bend in the Duero river around Fermoselle and Pinilla. Photo: Zona especial de conservación/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Ezcaray

Ezcaray is a tiny town of around 2000 people in the La Rioja region. It’s less than an hour from nearby Logroño, three and a half hours from Madrid, and the picturesque town is surrounded by rolling green hills and mountains.

Ezcaray may be small, but boasts a lot of visit worthy sites. The Real Fábrica de Paños de Santa Bárbara, an old textile factory, is a recognised cultural asset, as is the Casa de Tintes ‘El Fuerte’, which has been converted into the town hall. The church of Santa María la Mayor is also worth a visit, especially during Easter, for its eye-catching reddish stone, Gothic style and an ornate altarpiece dating back to the 12th century.

Ezcaray and the region in which it is located – La Rioja – are both off the tourist trail. Photo: Almudena Sanz/Pixabay

L’Ametlla de Mar

If you want a coastal trip this Easter but don’t want the hustle and bustle of cities like Valencia, Málaga or Alicante, consider L’Ametlla de Mar in Tarragona.

A town of just 8,000 people that has gorgeous coastal views, L’Ametlla de Mar strikes a balance between being small and compact but also offering tourists plenty to keep busy with. The port is worth a visit, as is the fish auction at Llotja de L’Ametlla and, of course, the 30 beautiful coves and beaches in the area, five of which have been awarded with distinctions.

Cala de la Leña, one of the many quiet coves around ‘Ametlla de Mar. Photo: Damià Llaó/Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 4.0

Sierra Morena Sevillana

Though Seville city centre will be absolutely packed with people during Semana Santa, the province itself has something of a hidden gem you could enjoy during Easter. Sierra Morena Sevillana is a protected nature reserve north of Seville, and whether it be fishing in the Rivera del Huéznar, heading to the Almadén de la Plata, the only public astronomical observatory in Spain, or enjoying some of the famous local Andalusian gastronomy, you’re sure to find something to help you disconnect from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Escape Seville’s Semana Santa processions in the nearby Sierra Morena. Photo: NacionAndaluza/Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

DISCOVER SPAIN

A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

SHOW COMMENTS