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Madrid’s Carabanchel neighbourhood named third coolest in the world

Famed for once housing one of Europe's biggest prisons, working-class Carabanchel has been dubbed the Spanish capital's SoHo in Time Out's 2023 ranking of the world's best neighbourhoods.

Madrid's Carabanchel neighbourhood named third coolest in the world
Madrid's Carabanchel has been named third-coolest in the world. Photo: Luis García (Zaqarbal) / Wikimedia Commons

Every year, Time Out scours the globe to find the world’s coolest neighbourhoods and this year’s list of the top 40 crowns Madrid’s Carabanchel number three.

The only neighbourhoods to rank higher than Carabanchel are Laureles in Medellín (Colombia) at number one and Smithfield in Dublin (Ireland) at number two.

Travel publisher Time Out states that this year’s choices are places with big personalities.

“Each area’s diversity is reflected in its food, culture and festivals. Community is key: locals have banded together to rebuild their neighbourhood after disaster, to protest the demolition of much-loved cultural venues or simply to create spaces where people can come together and have some fun”.

Carabanchel lies outside the Madrid M30 ring road and is located to the south of the centre, one of the poorer areas of the capital.

Right up until 1998, the neighbourhood was dominated by one of Europe’s biggest prisons. Built between 1940 and 1944, it was constructed by political prisoners after the Civil War and shaped the grittiness of the neighbourhood for over half a century.

READ ALSO: What are Madrid’s most affordable neighbourhoods to rent in?

Since the prison closed and was eventually razed to the ground, the neighbourhood has undergone a grand transformation, with galleries and craft beer breweries popping up alongside local community establishments and family favourites that have existed for years.

In September of this year in fact, Madrid town hall approved a plan to build 640 new houses on the land where the prison once stood, along with a new hospital, offices, an education centre and several green zones.

Once built, the influx of new residents, plus tourists and digital nomads looking for the next up-and-coming neighbourhood are sure to change Carabanchel even more.

READ ALSO: How much does it really cost to live in Madrid?

Time Out has declared that “Carabanchel has turned into the city’s latest version of SoHo, now buzzing with trendy art galleries and cutting-edge creative spaces”. 

One of the hip places that has helped Carabanchel earn this accolade is Nave Oporto, a centre for artistic creation, housed in an old textile warehouse. Here, a group of young architects and artists have located their studios. Casa Antillón and the Veta art gallery are two other worthy mentions in the area. 

Small family-run shops and eateries add to Carabanchel’s authentic vibe. Photo: Zarateman / Wikimedia Commons
 

Another place mentioned that has helped to make this barrio the third coolest in the world is Cervezas Patanel, a sleek brewpub, where glasses of chilled craft beer and IPAs are served alongside modern tapas bites such as nachos and honeyed-barbecue chicken, as well as burgers and pizzas.

La Grifería follows the same trend with its craft beers on offer, but also serves a selection of wines and more traditional tapas.

But it’s not just ‘nuevo cool’ that has this hood on the list. As mentioned the Time Out editors have also chosen Carabanchel because of its local community feel, and there are some spots here that have been favourite local hangouts for years.

One of these is Casa Enriqueta, serving up its traditional gallinejas (crispy lamb or goat intestines to be precise) – a Madrid speciality since 1958. There’s also La Casa de los Minutejos, touted by locals as one of the best places to eat pig ear sandwiches in the city.

And of course what hip neighbourhood would be complete without live music venues? Yes, Carabanchel has these too. Two of the best mentioned are the rooftop of El Observatorio Musical, a large cultural space with its own recording studios, and the gigs at Gruta 77. With musical styles from punk rock and ska to reggae and garage, this nightclub is surely the place to see and be seen in Carabanchel.

Add this to the sprawling peaceful gardens at the neighbourhood’s Finca Vista Alegre palace that were redone in 2021 and the chic Sabrina Amrani gallery, focusing on art from North Africa, the Middle East and South Asia, and you can see why Carabanchel is now on the radar.

Whether the new constructions approved by the Madrid town hall and the Time Out accolade change the barrio for the better – no longer the place associated with one of Europe’s biggest prisons – or whether it drives up rents and pushes locals even further out of the city has yet to be seen. But for now, locals seem proud that their once little-known neighbourhood has been recognised for what it truly is.

It’s not the first time a Madrid barrio gets recognised by Time Out. In 2018, it was the turn of Embajadores (which encompasses multicultural and buzzing Lavapiés), when it got named the world’s coolest by the travel and events magazine.

READ MORE: The real reason why this Madrid’s Embajadores was named the world’s ‘coolest’ neighbourhood

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A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

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