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As Covid restrictions end, Spain’s Easter traditions are resurrected

With Easter processions cancelled for the past two years due to the coronavirus pandemic, Spain's colourful Holy Week marches made their eagerly awaited return to the streets on Sunday.

As Covid restrictions end, Spain's Easter traditions are resurrected
Spanish actor Antonio Banderas takes part in the "Lágrimas y Favores" (Tears and favours) brotherhood's Palm Sunday procession in Malaga on April 10th, 2022. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

The holiday, which runs until Easter Day on April 17th, is a time when huge crowds traditionally gather to watch the elaborate processions in this deeply Catholic country.

Organised by brotherhoods, the parades feature dozens of people dressed in religious tunics and distinctive pointy hoods and elaborate floats topped with statues of Jesus and the Virgin Mary.

Some of the processions date back hundreds of years.

READ ALSO: The essential guide to Easter in Spain in 2022

“We’re very excited after two years” of being unable to celebrate Holy Week, said Rafael Perez of the Work and Light Brotherhood that stages one of the processions in the southern city of Granada.

In Seville — whose 680,000-strong population doubles during Holy Week — people played traditional procession music over loudspeakers or sang mournful saetas from balconies, a capella ballads about the death of Jesus and the grief of his mother.

Everything was thrown up in the air in mid-March 2020 when the country went into lockdown as the virus took hold a month before Easter, hitting Spain badly as it spread like wildfire.

In one of the world’s strictest lockdowns, Spain cancelled all religious celebrations, prompting some to improvise festivities at home on their balconies, mostly in the south where Easter processions have been held for centuries.

The situation improved slightly last year, although with memories still fresh of the explosion of virus cases after Christmas the authorities imposed curfews and a ban on travel between regions that clouded the festivities.

The southern city of Seville’s impressive Holy Week parades, which had never been cancelled since 1933, were called off for a second year running in a move mirrored across Spain.

READ ALSO: What you need to know about Semana Santa in Seville in 2022

Return of the tourists

This year, Spaniards want to make up for lost time and enjoy an Easter week as in times before the pandemic, when they made an average of seven million trips across the country to visit family or hit the beach, Statistica figures show.

People crowd the street and rooftop terraces of Seville to watch ‘La Paz’ brotherhood parading during the Palm Sunday procession during the first day of Holy Week in Spain. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

“Tourism and business prospects for Holy Week 2022, the first after two years of not being able to celebrate due to the pandemic, are close to 90 percent of the sales levels registered in 2019,” the Exceltur tourism association said on Thursday.

READ ALSO: Easter Holidays – What to expect if you’re coming to Spain 

In April 2019, a total of seven million foreign tourists visited Spain. Tourism Minister Reyes Maroto said she hoped to see 80 percent of that figure, which would bring much-needed relief to the country’s badly hit tourism sector.

Before the pandemic, Spain was the world’s second most popular tourist destination after France.

With more than 92 percent of its 47 million residents fully vaccinated, Spain last month embarked on a new strategy to treat the virus as an endemic illness like flu, dropping a requirement for people with mild cases of Covid-19 to self-isolate.

In February it ended a rule requiring people to wear masks outdoors and on April 20, just after Easter, it will also drop an indoor mask mandate, except in hospitals and on public transport.

Seville’s City Hall says it is expecting “a large turnout after two years without celebrations” with more than 70 brotherhoods ready to conduct their traditional marches through the city.

With hundreds of thousands of visitors expected, Andalusia’s regional government has recommended all participants wear masks and that testing be carried out on the many teams carrying the huge religious floats bearing statues of the Virgin Mary and Christ.

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DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

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