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SPANISH TRADITIONS

The ultimate guide to Spain’s craziest carnivals

As carnival gets underway across Spain this week, The Local gives you the rundown on where to see some of Spain's wackiest celebrations, including everything from mythical creatures to mud-slinging.

The ultimate guide to Spain's craziest carnivals
From left to right: The Devils of Luzón (Guadalajara), the grotesque Peliqueiros of Laza Carnival, tropical costumes at Santa Cruz de Tenerife’s giant carnival and the Indianos powder party of La Palma, just four examples of Spain’s wide array of crazy carnivals. Photos: César Manso, Miguel Riopa, Desirée Martín/AFP.

In the week leading up to Lent, Spain plays host to some of the world’s biggest and best carnivals.

There are also numerous smaller carnivals, many of them with roots going back hundreds of years, which really capture the imagination.

Spaniards in locations across the country take great pleasure and pride in dressing up, play fighting and letting off steam before the belt-tightening of Lent.

This year, carnival or carnaval is on from Thursday February 8th until Saturday 17th. As you’re about to see now, the party can be just as weird as it is wonderful.

Mud madness and grotesque grins in Laza, Galicia

If you’re spending carnival in Galicia, chances are you’ll get more than just a spot of rain. So why not take it a step further and get involved in a full-on mud battle? In the town of Laza locals engaged in a friendly war where rags drenched in mud are thrown at random at everyone taking part. Laza Carnival also offers an alternative to those who don’t want to wash mud out of their hair for a week. Os Peliqueiros, seen in the image wearing odd traditional clothing and creepy masks, are ancestral figures thought to represent Galician taxmen in the 16th century. Up to 150 run through the streets of this small town in northern Spain, whipping anyone who gets in their way.

Revellers throw rags of mud as they take part in the “Farrapada” during the traditional carnival of Laza. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)
 

Glitz, glamour and party vibes in Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Billed as the best place to celebrate carnival outside of Rio de Janeiro, the Santa Cruz carnival in Tenerife draws crowds of 400,000 and involves street parties, parades, satirical street bands and of course, the crowning of a carnival queen. 

The parades and costumes in Santa Cruz de Tenerife are as good as the ones in Rio. Photo: Desiree Martin/AFP

Drag queen election in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

You can’t get much glitzier than the annual carnival celebration in Las Palmas, the capital of Gran Canaria. The surreal nature and extravagant costumes seen at each year’s pageant are a feast for the senses, making the event just as popular as the standard Carnival Queen election in neighbouring Tenerife. Anyone can take part in the drag gala, but only a handful of women have taken to the stage since the celebration began in 1998.

Drag queens bring all the fun to the Las Palmas carnival. (Photo by DESIREE MARTIN / AFP)
 

Where the wild things are in Piasca, Cantabria

If you fancy reliving some childhood nightmares head to the village of Piasca in Cantabria, northern Spain. There you will find half of the locals covered in animal skins and wearing unnerving animalistic masks, who will no doubt chase you away with their brooms. Another tradition of the so-called Zamarrones Carnival involves going from door to door begging for sausages, eggs and bacon while heading to the neighbouring village of Los Cos.

These scary-looking costumes in Piasca are an important part of carnival here. (Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)
 

Mad masks in Carrizo de la Ribera, Castilla y León

Another carnival with cowbells, this time, locals dress up as characters called ‘antruejos’, terrifying-looking figures that you definitely wouldn’t want to meet on a dark night. It takes place in the town of Carrizo de la Ribera in Castilla y León.

A group of masked men dressed as “Antruejos” carrying cowbells tied to his back take part in the carnival of Carrizo de la Ribera. (Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)
 

Powder party in La Palma, Canary Islands

Los Indianos festival sees thousands of people dressed in white take to the streets of La Palma (Canaries) and chuck talcum powder at each other for hours on end. The fiesta’s name refers to the Canarian migrants who sought a better life in Latin America in the 19th century and were greeted warmly on their return to the island of La Palma. As for the talcum tossing, it’s thought to be linked to the disinfectant powder sprinkled on the travellers to avoid the spread of disease.

Talcum powder fights are a fun way to celebrate carnival in La Palma. Photo: Desiree Martin/AFP

A load of bull in Ciudad Rodrigo, Castilla y León

It may come as no surprise that one Spanish town has linked two of the country’s greatest traditions together: bull running and Carnival. After all, if being chased by a 700-kilo beast seemed foolish enough already, doing it in fancy dress seems to make sense somehow. Head to Ciudad Rodrigo near Salamanca (west Spain) for El Carnaval del Toro.

Combine carnival fun and running with the bulls in Ciudad de Rodrigo. (Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)
 

Basque bigfoots in Ituren and Zubieta, Navarre

Old habits die hard, especially ancient ones in the Basque Country and Navarre. Carnival traditions in the villages of Ituren and Zubieta (Navarre) see locals dress up as wild beasts from head to toe as they march through the streets escorted by Joalduns, “those who carry the bells” to scare away the evil spirits. Similar medieval traditions revolving around farming and animal herding are also found in Slovenia and Bulgaria.

Locals from the neighbouring villages of Ituren and Zubieta have one of the most eye-catching carnivals in Spain. (Photo by ANDER GILLENEA / AFP)
 

Meet the giants in Solsona, Catalonia

In Solsona, Catalonia, carnival festivities have a long history. Under Franco, the celebrations were forbidden, however, the city was the first to begin celebrating again after his death. This carnival gives you the opportunity to experience some Catalan cultural traditions, chief among them the parade of the gegants (giants) or the symbolic hanging of the (Catalan) donkey.

Keep an eye out for the giants roaming the streets of Solsona. Photo: Solsona Turismo
 

Arrival of the birds in Villarrobledo, Castilla-La Mancha

The carnival in Villarrobledo is another one with a long history which goes back to the 19th century. Traditionally, the festivities begin on the Thursday with the Llegada de los Juanes, a parade of people wearing bird masks. They are the opening act for ten days full of costumes, fun and fiestas. There is also a children’s carnival with its own costume competition.

Carnival in Villarrobledo begins with the arrival of the birds. Photo: Castilla-La Mancha Tourism

Carnaval del Vino de Haro, La Rioja

In La Rioja, of course wine plays a major role in the carnival celebrations with lots of bodegas taking part. Each year also has a theme, whether that’s Murder on the Orient Express they did one year or the Wild West. Salud!

Enjoy wine at the Carnival de Haro in La Rioja. Source: Turismo La Rioja
 

Gay carnival in Sitges, Catalonia

More than 250,000 people flock to the coastal town of Sitges about 35 kilometres from Barcelona for one of the biggest gay carnivals in the world. The week is packed with parades, parties and shows and the gay-friendly town opens its doors to thousands of revellers. By the way, this one is also said to be one of the safest street festivals in the world. The best party night is on Saturday!

A reveller parades during Sitges Gay Carnival. (Photo by Josep LAGO / AFP)
 

Drink and sing in Cádiz, Andalusia

The carnival in Cádiz is one of the most famous in Spain, dating back to the 16th century. These days it’s all about dressing up and poking fun at politicians and people in the news, as well as the usual eating and drinking of course.

A carnival choir entertains the crowds in Cádiz. (Photo by JOSE LUIS ROCA / AFP)
 

Feeling devilish in Luzón, Castilla–La Mancha

During the festival of the devils in Luzón, near Guadalajara, local men paint their faces with oil and soot, don horns and cowbells to transform into devils. Records show the carnival dates back to the 14th century.

People sporting horns on their heads and grease on their faces to represent “Diablos de Luzon” (Luzon’s devils) . (Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)

Flour fights and grinning masks in Verín, Galicia

As well as grinning masks, like the nearby Laza carnival, the one in Verín also includes a battle with flour, water and live ants used as ammunition and ends with a reading of the satirical ‘Donkey’s Will’ and the burning of an effigy. The festive event is considered to be the most ancient and most splendid in Galicia and is not governed by civil laws or religious precepts.

You’re never too old to enjoy carnival in Verín. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)
 

El Gallo de Carnaval in Mecerreyes, Castilla y León

This carnival’s name literally translates to “The Carnival’s Rooster” and takes place in Mecerreyes, Burgos. It is celebrated with lots of singing, dancing, but the main part consists of characters called Zarramacos who protect the Gallo or rooster from being attacked. One person dresses as the rooster, while participants also throw feathers and resin.

Revellers dressed as Zarramacos, wearing handmade costumes made with ropes, bones, or leaves during the celebration of “El Gallo de Carnaval” in Mecerreyes. Photo: CESAR MANSO / AFP
 

Burial of the sardine, all over Spain

Celebrations turn a bit too surreal in many parts of Spain when on Ash Wednesday the streets are jam-packed with fake weeping widows, men and women, who follow a giant polystyrene sardine to its burial. The message behind the funeral parody is more symbolic than it may initially seem: the sardine represents life’s excesses and its burning at the stake, the purge of such vices and the rebirth of our souls.

The burial of the sardine often marks the end of carnival in Spain. Photo: Christophe Simon/AFP
 

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DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

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