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MOVING TO SWEDEN

Five unexpected things you learn when living with Swedes

If you're moving to Sweden, chances are you'll be subletting a small apartment which is part of a larger block. That means coming into contact with genuine Swedes in their natural habitat, and there are a few things worth keeping in mind about the experience.

people carrying boxes while moving apartment
Manage to tie yourself down accommodation in Sweden? Congratulations. Photo: Lieselotte van der Meijs/imagebank.sweden.se

1. Laundry is now the most important thing in your life

Remember those lazy Sundays where you put your laundry on, left the house, had a walk in the park and a coffee before casually coming home to hang out the drying? Remember them fondly, because now that you are moving to Sweden, they are dead.

Space is at a premium in Swedish apartments, and one of the first things you’re likely to notice when you enter one is the lack of a washing machine. Residents instead tend to do their laundry in a communal washroom somewhere else in the building, with timeslots booked ahead of time.

With so many people sharing the same laundry space, getting a last minute booking is a rare thing, so unless you want to know what it feels like to reach Wednesday, realise you have no underwear left, then rush hurriedly to H&M to buy more (and trust me, it doesn’t feel good) you’d better get used to planning your washing weeks ahead.

On the positive side, “I can’t, I have to do my laundry” becomes a nice alternative to “I’m washing my hair” as an excuse for not turning up somewhere, with the difference being that you genuinely can’t come. You have to do your laundry. Or else.

2. The first rule of subletting is you don’t talk about subletting

Unless you’ve been in the queue for one of Sweden’s state-regulated apartments since you were born – and let’s face it, you haven’t – finding a first home in the country is likely to mean finding a sublet.

Overcrowding and accommodation shortages mean renting “second hand” is a common way of living, particularly if you’re young. Yet despite that, subletting is often treated like a deep, dark secret that should never be revealed.

Why? In theory, it shouldn’t really be done, or at least not for long. Tight regulations mean that if someone wants to hire their rental apartment out in Sweden by the book, they will need to provide a valid reason for doing so (for example, going to study abroad). For the same reason, contracts tend to be frustratingly short.

The result? Well, we’re not suggesting that some people choose to rent their apartments out through unofficial means, but… put it this way: when your neighbour’s tone of voice drops to a whisper and he or she starts looking around shiftily once you’ve told them you’re subletting, you now know why.

3. Think you have storage? Think again

So you finally managed to find an apartment? Good news. The bad news is you’re only renting half of it.

Those handy looking cupboards in the kitchen are so handy that the contract owner decided to fill them with their horrible glassware while they left on a gap year. Ditto the large cupboard in the living room, which probably contains the world’s biggest collection of blue Ikea bags – or worse.

Fortunately, many Swedish apartments come with loft or basement storage elsewhere in the building. Unfortunately, that’s full too. After all, where else would the owner put his or her ski equipment, collection of childhood toys, or random junk? Renting in Sweden means traveling light. Get used to it.

4. The spring (and autumn) clean dilemma

Swedes have a reputation for being solitary types, but when it comes to looking after apartment buildings they’re actually pretty collectively-minded. Twice a year the normally lonesome creatures can be seen out in their courtyards, raking leaves, brushing gravel together and even conversing as they take part in the traditional spring and autumn cleaning session.

You have two options here: either you’re a good citizen and you take part, make a token effort to clean up some rubbish and make awkward small talk with Henke over a hotdog, or, you wait patiently and watch carefully for the right moment to leave the house, then sneak away while everyone has their back turned. The choice is yours, but remember: you’ll be leaving for another apartment in six months anyway.

5. Don’t be fooled: that nifty-looking library is useless

Swedes hate to throw stuff away, and the proof is in their well-organised recycling schemes, meaning cans and bottles can often be taken to recycling stations in supermarkets and exchanged for money.

That reticence to waste things has its downside though, and nowhere is it more apparent than on the communal bookshelf. The location varies, but whether it’s in the laundry room, recycling area, or in a room of its own, you’re bound to find a shelf full of old books somewhere in your new apartment block, where texts are left “kindly” by other residents who are eager to share their latest great read.

It’s a trap. Unless you find the Swedish equivalent of Mills and Boon enticing, or are desperate to read the 98th edition of Sven-Göran Eriksson’s autobiography, then move along, there’s nothing of interest for you here. Dress it up any way you like: but those books have been left there for a reason, and the reason is that they aren’t wanted.

Article written by Lee Roden in 2016.

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READER INSIGHTS

‘We all cheer each other on’: How we made friends in Sweden

Sweden is often rated as a difficult country to make friends in. We asked those who've been there, done that – or in other words, The Local's readers – how they met their closest friends in Sweden.

'We all cheer each other on': How we made friends in Sweden

“They are so supportive, caring and understanding,” said Erin Swoverland, a reader from the US, about her friends. “We all listen, lift each other up and cheer each other on. I feel so incredibly lucky to have such amazing women in my corner.”

She met most of them at a gym in Stockholm. 

“I attended a Friday training class for women and the rest is history. I will say I think it being a small, independent gym made all the difference as we actually spoke to each other. I haven’t had the same interactions at larger chains,” she said.

Erin was one of dozens of readers who responded to The Local’s question about how they found their friends in Sweden, sparked by a recent survey which showed that 13 percent of foreigners lack a close friend (double the number of Swedes who said the same thing).

A lot of readers alluded to the part-truth, part-stereotype that Swedes tend to compartmentalise their lives and prefer organised fun over spontaneous activities, and one of the classic strategies that always comes up in these discussions is to join some kind of club or society.

The benefit of “organised fun” is that Sweden has a vibrant föreningsliv (literally “association life”), with many people involved in for example their local football club, gaming hub, gardening society, trade union, hiking club, or even just being on the board of their housing association.

“As I always liked cycling, running, badminton, indoor climbing and a few other sports, I found groups on Meetup for such activities. This helped me meet like-minded people. Soon afterwards, some of us started to hang out together for beers or pizzas etc. Thanks to these people we started to invite other people to our gatherings. Finally today, I have a large network of very interesting and close friends (immigrants as well as Swedish friends). When I look back, I realise that it was much easier to get to know people in events having just six to eight people. If you go in a large group setting it is difficult to meet people as splinter groups start getting formed,” said a Pakistani reader.

“I have been in Sweden for over 15 years now. During this time our close friendship network has just increased. Like any friends, we fight and argue at times, but at the same time I know that my friends care about me. I feel at home in Sweden with this circle of friends.”

He wasn’t the only one who suggested joining a society (although one reader cautioned against “survivorship bias” and pointed out that not everyone manages to turn up at event and immediately make friends). Even if you don’t join a traditional club, readers recommended plenty of other networking opportunities, including sites or friendship apps such as Meetup, Bumble BFF, Panion and GoFrendly.

Nathan Lloyd, a Welshman in Malmö, recommends networking meetups, even if they’re not directly relevant to your own field, as well as Facebook groups. He met his best friend, Brian, via Grindr – not the only one we’ve heard of who made platonic friends on dating apps.

“He’s truly my best friend. Been friends for over six years,” he said. “We enjoy loppising together, going out in nature, birdwatching and art, a major thing we bonded over. He’s been there through highs and lows and helped me in emergency situations when I’ve needed someone.”

Nathan Lloyd, centre, with his friend, Brian, and partner, Tom, at the Konstrundan art weekend in southern Sweden. Photo: Private

Not being afraid of putting yourself out there and making the first move was another tip that came up in the survey, with many describing Swedes as warm friends – perhaps even surprisingly warm – once you break through the shell.

“First and foremost, don’t try too hard. Best friends are the organic ones that come in your life at the moments you don’t expect. Be open and give a shot to those who seem to be more open. Swedes who have been abroad frequently are exceptionally more pleasant to keep around,” said Hadi from Iran, who first moved to Sweden in 2010 and now lives in the south of the country.

OPINION:

Peter, a reader who works at Lund University in southern Sweden, befriended his new neighbour after knocking on their door to ask if he could use their wifi until he managed to get his own.

“We have been very good friends ever since, even after I moved to another town. I find Swedes to be very friendly in general, but sometimes I need to make the first effort,” he said.

Robert Blomstrand, a born Swede who lived most of his life abroad, says he and his South African wife, Vanessa, met amazing friends in church and were surprised by their warmth and care.

“Through this we learned Swedish and had many wonderful Swedish experiences (sailing, meals, celebrations). Still very good friends,” he said.

Robert Blomstrand’s friends on a sailing trip to the Gothenburg archipelago. Photo: Private

Ioannis, based in southern Stockholm, said he met most of his friends through university or work and then made sure that the friendships were maintained after studies finished or work changed.

“Important first step was to accept that it is me, the one that has to make an effort. Then show interest in others, learn about who they are and how they are like. Share experiences with them, also offer help and support and ask for help and support. Independence and individualism can be an obstacle in creating social bonds. Make the effort, without expecting same returns. Give it time.”

“I believe that if you want a friend, you have to be a friend first,” said Jeremiah from the US. “My friends are people who were willing to invest in a building a relationship because they didn’t have them locally. We connected over the shared experience of being displaced and learning how to adult again. The connections grew because we had other shared interests, were willing to spend more time together, and were willing to help each other.”

“Focus on finding people who like doing things that you enjoy, like going to museums, movies, etc,” said a Stockholm-based reader, who made friends with his colleague after inviting him to a drag show at the Abba Museum.

“It’s so much easier to make friends during the things you like. Like any relationship, don’t try and rush it,” he added. “Just continue to reach out for times to hang out, and be OK with them not always saying yes the first time. We’re all busy. I also found it easier to make friends with folks, particularly Swedes, who weren’t from Stockholm (or whatever city you’re living in) as they generally have smaller networks/ open to make new friends in Stockholm.

Several readers expressed sadness that they hadn’t made any Swedish friends and that all their friends were fellow foreigners.

“I made friends through work (international company) and from my country of origin. I don’t have any Swedish friends even though I have been living in Stockholm for 15 years,” said a Colombian reader.

Some readers, however, argued that it isn’t necessarily strange, or a negative, that foreigners end up with foreigners, as you share similar experiences. Having a community with people you feel close to and have something in common with matters more than who they are.

“Close friendships are built because you share some experiences in life. I was an immigrant in Sweden, hence like all immigrants in Sweden I faced many issues time after time, for example issues related to visa or bank accounts,” said the Pakistani reader from the start of the article. “It is much easier to connect with people when you share similar issues. Don’t be afraid to talk about your experiences. This helps to bring us closer.”

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