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La corrida: Why south-west France’s Bayonne Festival is controversial

South-west France's biggest festival kicks off this week - a high-octane five-day party of music, sports, food, shows and a competition for the best spicy omelette. But one festival event has some people calling for a boycott - bullfighting.

La corrida: Why south-west France's Bayonne Festival is controversial
Spanish matador Enrique Ponce takes part in a bullfight in Bayonne in 2017. Photo by Daniel VELEZ / AFP

Around one million people visit the Bayonne Festival in southern France – it is an event which features everything from live music and parades to games for children and fireworks.

The festival kicks off on Wednesday, July 26th and runs until Sunday. Over the five days, hundreds of thousands of revellers will head to Bayonne, close to the Spanish border, to enjoy what is dubbed France’s wildest party. 

Each day will be jam packed with activities including parades of illuminated floats, traditional songs and dances, food and drink stalls in every direction and music concerts.

At night, festival goers are known to dance, spin, and often stumble from peñas to peñas (neighbourhood clubs) in a sea of sound and movement that lasts until the early hours of the morning. 

But the festival also features one activity that means many will never set foot in Bayonne during the event – la corrida (bullfighting).

Usually associated with Spain, bullfighting also takes place in southern France, especially in the Basque country of the south west, although in recent years more and more towns have abandoned their bullfighting festivals after strong opposition.

There have also been repeated attempts to ban the practice in France on animal welfare grounds, but none have succeeded.

The Fêtes de Bayonne has a strong Basque identity, and bullfighting is a traditional part of the event. This programme features two corridas – a horseback event and a bullfight featuring a father-and-son team from Spain.

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And it’s for this reason that many people boycott the event.

The French group CRAC Europe (The Radical Committee Against Corrida) is among the leading voices against bullfighting, however the group would not support a boycott of Bayonne festival, just the corrida itself.

“Bullfighting in general is perverse, it’s sadism, and it’s incredible that in the 21st century there is still entertainment based on stabbing animals to death,” the group’s vice president, Roger Lahana, told The Local previously. 

“In Bayonne they have nice parties, and we have nothing against people who want to have fun, drink, dance, and listen to music. But festivals don’t need bullfights,” he said. 

CRAC’s Lahana points out that at a festival in Mont-de-Marsan there were 100,000 people on the street partying while just 7,000 attended the bullfight. 

“You can do the maths, people will still go to festivals without bullfights, and festivals are going to continue even if bullfights were to disappear,” he said.

But Fête de Bayonne organiser Olivier Baratchart said that they’re looking forward to hosting bullfighting events this year, telling local paper Ouest France: “Juan Manuel and his family are delighted to come and we are delighted to welcome them. The pillars of this campo are a father and son, veterinarians by profession. The son has high hopes for the Bayonne bullfight. I think it will go well.

“We’d like to continue writing the history of our bullring with them.”

Xabi Belain of Bayonne’s tourist office told The Local that people who wanted to come to the festival shouldn’t let the bullfights stop them. 

“Bullfighting is a tradition in France,” he said. 

“We understand that it is complicated for some people, but this is a strong tradition, especially in Bayonne which was the first place in France to host bullfighting.

“But the bullfighting is one of the smallest parts of the festival. One million people come for a whole host of activities – it’s a huge party – and the bullfighting arena only fits 10,000 people.”

He said that those who come for the bullfights are a “small but devoted” group, many of whom come to see some of the world’s best bullfighters perform.

And for those who are against bullfighting, he had a simple message: “For those people who don’t want to see the bullfighting – we understand – but you don’t need to boycott the festival.” 

You can find full details of the festival – which costs €12 for a weekend pass – and the complete programme of events here.

Member comments

  1. We human beings still display and act out the savagery that is part of our inherited genes. The continuance of public torture and killing for entertainment purposes is proof of our atavistic nature. Culturally we are slowly changing, in Roman times it was people not bulls – oh but wait, what about ISIS? As a primary species, is the awesome destructive power of thermal nuclear weapons really in safe hands? I think not, but perhaps with luck we’ll make it through.

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WHAT CHANGES IN FRANCE

What to expect on May 1st in France

Demonstrations, flowers, closures, traffic and rain - here's what to expect if you're in France on May 1st 2024.

What to expect on May 1st in France

May 1st is a significant day in the French calendar, with a lot of history and events around the country.

Here’s what to expect this year;

Day off

May 1st is a public holiday and this year it falls on a Wednesday, meaning a day off for most workers.

It forms an opportunity to ‘faire le viaduct’, so don’t be surprised if your colleagues have booked either the Monday and Tuesday or the Thursday and Friday off work to create an extended break.

Closures

Most workplaces will be closed on Wednesday, including all public administration offices such as préfectures and mairies. Some smaller offices may also have revised opening hours for the rest of the week if their staff have booked extra holiday, so it would be worth checking in advance if you’re planning a visit.

The Eiffel Tower will be open but both the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay close on May 1st. If you’re planning a visit to a smaller site it is worth checking in advance.

Smaller independent shops will mostly close for the day, some larger businesses and chains may be open but with reduced hours. Many supermarkets will close for the day.

Some restaurants, cafés and bars will stay open but many others will close so it’s definitely worth booking or at least checking opening hours if you are planning dinner or drinks out.

Employees who work on May 1st are entitled to get paid double wages (rather than simply getting an extra day off as is the case for other public holidays) which is why many businesses prefer to close. Some of France’s bigger tourist attractions close for only two public holidays – Christmas Day and May 1st.

Demonstrations 

May 1st has, since 1889, been International Workers’ Day and around the world there are demonstrations and marches held on the day as a demonstration of international solidarity.

This is a tradition that France has embraced with enthusiasm and most towns and cities will have a manif (demo). These are mostly organised by trade unions and are in the main calm and peaceful – families take their kids and there is music and snacks at the departure points.

There are serious subjects to be addressed, however, and this year many of the marches are focused on the rising cost of living and the increasing number of people living in a precarious financial situation, although some marches will also focus on issues such as gender inequality and climate change, while others will prioritise local issues such as funding for schools.

Expect road closures along the demo route and a heavy police presence – as is common with demos, there may be some trouble or violence towards the end of the march in the bigger French cities.

In Paris the demo will set off from 2pm from the Place de la République and head to Nation. Between 15,000 and 30,000 people are expected in Paris and nationwide the turnout is estimated at 150,000 – a steep fall from last year when around 800,000 turned out to protest against pension reform. 

Flowers

Before it was International Workers’ Day, May 1st was a festival with pagan roots celebrating the arrival of spring, and some of the traditions hark back to that.

In northern France you may (possibly) still see the ‘May tree‘ – a tree that a young man plants outside the home of the woman he wanted to marry.

Meanwhile all over the country you will see stalls selling bunches or pots of the pretty white lily-of-the-valley flowers (muguet).

These are a tradition going right back to the 1500s and are said to bring good luck. Florists and supermarkets sell them but you’ll also see temporary stalls set up, many run by trade unions or leftist groups who are raising funds for their organisation.

Muguet: France’s lucky May flower

Weather

Tradition might say that May 1st ushers in the return of les beaux jours, or the beautiful, sunny days of spring and summer, but this year the weather appears to have other ideas.

Unusually cold weather will persist through the week, with May 1st forecast to be rainy in many areas.

Traffic

If you’re heading to a popular local leisure spot like a beach or make on May 1st traffic might be heavier than usual, but traffic watchdog Bison futé has no alerts listed for Wednesday. Instead, traffic is predicted to be heavier on Saturday as people return from their extended ‘pont’ weekend, while the school holidays also finish for Zone B (northern France plus Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur).

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