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MY ITALIAN CAREER

CAREER

‘We’ve been riding the waves and are still afloat’

Pamela Sheldon Johns, from the US, has been hosting cooking classes and writing books about Italian food for years. She also runs an agritourism site in Tuscany and makes her own olive oil. She talks to The Local about juggling it all, and weathering several crises, in Italy.

'We've been riding the waves and are still afloat'

How many culinary books on Italy have you written now and where are they sold?

Of my 17 books, a dozen are about Italian traditional and regional food. 
 
The books are sold worldwide (several with translations in French, German and Spanish), on internet sources such as Abes Books and Amazon, and bookstores can order them. In Rome, the Anglo American Bookstore has several of my books. In Florence, B&M books has always carried them, and I just saw my Cucina Povera book at the beautiful new Feltrinelli bookstore in the Santa Maria Novella train station!
 
How did you go about setting up cooking workshops across Italy? 
 
In 1992, I started bringing groups from the US in collaboration with a friend who imports artisanal Italian ingredients.
 
Our idea was to make professionals and home cooks aware of true Italian regional cuisine and how to re-create that back home with the right ingredients.
 
This is still very much my philosophy. We held our workshops at a well known wine and olive oil producer near Florence. That was our home base for a few years. Then, we moved on to Montepulciano, where I continued it for several years while still living in the US. 
 
I was acting as a tour operator, marketing and organizing groups to come over to Italy. The business activity was under the umbrella of the wineries.
 
In 2006, my activity became managed by the American-based office for Italian Food Artisans. The workshops are still organized from the US and I join the groups as a guest host/educator.
 
You also run Poggio Etrusco, an agritourism in Tuscany.  How did you go about setting this up?
 
Poggio Etrusco is a 100 percent Italian business, and completely accountable in Italy. Here we have rooms/apartments for holiday stays, cooking classes and agricultural production. 
 
I would love to give advice on how to start a business in Italy, however I only know about doing this for an agritourism in the town of Montepulciano, in the province of Siena.
 
It's all "apples and oranges" when it comes to getting things done, and a tremendous amount has changed from when I started in 2001. 
 
I was lucky to have a great accountant and a friend who is a lawyer. In fact, I had many friends in the area from having worked here before I moved here who helped us immensely.
 
I am certain someone doing this now will have a much easier time as there is so much information on the internet now that didn't exist then. Our experience involved waiting for the dial-up internet to connect, looking up legal vocabulary in the dictionary, and counting the outgoing lire in the millions. 
 
And you produce olive oil!  What does it take to become an olive oil producer?
 
I am so proud of our oil. We adopted over 1000 trees when we acquired our property. Our small artisanal production is from four varieties of traditional organic Tuscan olives: moraiolo, leccino, correggiolo/frantoiana, and pendolino. 

 
The oil is extra-virgin. By law it can only be called extra-virgin if it has an acidity of 0.8 percent or less. Ours has 0.15 percent at pressing, thanks to our careful handling.  
 
In 2003, we certified organic and have seen our production more than doubled, even though we lost a few trees in the hard winter of 2012.
 
Due to our relatively small production, most of our oil is purchased by our guests and friends. We ship directly, right after harvest. We have one reseller in the states, www.Olio2go.com who will also ship in the summer when it is too hot for us to send the oil. 
 
You seem to have a lot to juggle! But I guess the most interesting thing would be how you're finding it 15-years on, especially with the challenges of the crisis.
 
We're in our 15th year, and juggling is the right word. Luckily many things are seasonal, such as the olive harvest and our guest season, but it does mean there isn't much down time. 
 
Even in the winter, I am busy writing, renewing the apartments, marketing, and touring to do cooking classes. But, it's ok… I love my work, and can't imagine giving any of it up. 
 
Being diversified helps, too, especially when you speak of the crises (and I really have to make that plural…). We've been riding the waves, and all I can say is that we are still afloat. It started as soon as we got here in 2001 when, in September, all American tourists just stopped coming. Another crisis in 2003 with the Iraq war slowed things down again, and then the dollar tanked in 2008.  
 
It pushed me to widen my base and become more internationally oriented, and in the long run that has been good. The crisis of the Italian economy is hitting us, too.  We used to have a lot of Italian guests, especially in particular holiday seasons such as 25 April and 1 May. We have had very few for the last two years, and I miss them.
 
Are you still happy with your decision to settle in Italy?
 
Yes. Absolutely. It has been hard work, but every day when I look out my window, or take a bite of a fresh pecorino cheese, or take a sip of our organic Sangiovese wine, I know it has been worth it.
 
What would you say to others considering a similar move?

Learn Italian. Live here for a while before making a big purchase. Be resourceful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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