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ITALIAN HISTORY

Five pre-Roman sites to visit in Italy

From the mountains of Lombardy to the shores of Sicily, there are traces of pre-Roman civilisations scattered across Italy - if you know where to look.

A broken statue of Icarus at the base of the Temple of Concordia in Agrigento.
A broken statue of Icarus at the base of the Temple of Concordia in Agrigento. Photo by Alexandra Tran on Unsplash

The Romans may be Italy’s best-known ancient civilisation, but with Rome tracing its foundations back to 753 BC, they were far from the first to get here.

From the Etruscans to the Greeks, a suprising number of early human societies left their mark on the Italian peninsula, with temples, fortifications, theatres and graveyards.

Here are five historic sites you can visit in Italy that pre-date the Romans.

Etruscan necropoli of Cerveteri and Tarquinia

The Etruscan civilisation, with its heartlands in modern-day Lazio, Tuscany and Umbria, at one time dominated Italy until it was wiped out in the Roman-Etruscan wars in the 4th century BC.

These days not much remains of the Etruscans beyond earthenware and sarcophagi, but we do have some impressive necropolises or ‘cities of the dead’ that served as graveyards.

READ ALSO: Four civilizations in Italy that pre-date the Roman Empire

One of the best preserved is in Tarquinia, where not far outside the medieval city walls you’ll find a complex with hundreds of painted tombs depicting ancient life.

Another is the Necropoli della Banditaccia in nearby Cerveteri, a sprawling cemetery containing thousands of large domed tombs in a city-like plan designed to mimic an actual living city.

A 7th century painted Etruscan tomb discovered outside Rome in June 2006. Photo by FILIPPO MONTEFORTE / AFP.

Matera’s Neolithic caves

Used as a filming location for Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St. Matthew or The Passion of the Christ thanks to its strong resemblance to ancient Jerusalem, Matera in southern Italy is believed to be Europe’s oldest continually-habited settlement.

Outside of the cave dwellings carved into the rock which form the residences and hotels you’ll find in the old town’s Sassi districts today, the city is surrounded by caves that have been dated as far back as 7000 BC, to the Neolithic and even the Paleolothic eras.

You can see traces of prehistoric settlements and and Neolithic graveyards and villages in the Murgia Materana regional park surrounding the city.

Caves dating back to the Neolithic area surround the ancient city of Matera. Photo by Filippo MONTEFORTE / AFP.

Sardinia’s nuraghi

Sardinia’s Nuragic civilisation lasted from around 1,800 BC in the Bronze Age to Roman invasion and colonisation in around the first century BC, but today few traces of it remain beyond the stone structures – nuraghes or nuraghi in Italian – from which it takes its name.

READ ALSO: Five surprising facts you didn’t know about Rome

Around 7,000 nuraghi, truncated cone-like edifices made from stacked stones and boulders, dot the island’s landscape. Historians debate their function: they might have served as fortresses, residences, temples, astronomical observatories, or a combination of any of these.

The Su Nuraxi di Barumini nuraghe complex in the south of the island is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, and is considered one of the best examples of the architecture.

An aerial view of Nuraghe Arrabiu, one of the largest nuraghi on Sardinia. Photo by Joran Quinten on Unsplash

Valcamonica’s pre-historic stone carvings

In Italy’s mountainous northern Lombardy region you can find one of the world’s largest collections of petroglyphs, or rock carvings, spanning eight millennia and dating as far back as the Epipaleolithic era, around 10,000 years ago.

The 300,000-odd carvings, found in multiple locations across the 90km-long valley, were Italy’s first recognised World Heritage site, coming under UNESCO protection in 1979.

Today, there are eight archeological parks you can visit to see the engravings in person, with the 140 rocks in the Naquane National Park of Rock Engravings considered some of the best preserved.

A British Museum employee dusts a carved stone dated 2,500 BC, from Capo di Ponte, Valcamonica, for a 2022 exhibition. Photo by Daniel LEAL / AFP.

Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples

From architecture to military strategy, the Romans were heavily influenced by the Greeks – which is no surprise considering that large parts of southern Italy were once part of ancient Greece.

‘Magna Grecia’, ‘Great[er] Greece’ as the Romans called it, started being settled by the Greeks from around the eighth century BC, and at its height stretched across modern-day Sicily, Calabria, Puglia, Campania and Basilicata.

READ ALSO: Did you know…? These parts of Italy were once part of ancient Greece

Scattered across southern Italy are the remains of Greek settlements, including soaring temples and ancient theatres.

One of the most renowned and impressive examples of these is the Sicilian city of Agrigento’s ‘Valley of Temples’, where you’ll find seven temples within just a few miles of each other.

The Greek Temple of Concordia in Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples was built in the 5th century BC. Photo by ludovic MARIN / AFP.

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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