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FLORENCE

What’s being done to save Florence from mass tourism?

Locals say Florence is becoming increasingly unliveable due to the impact of unregulated mass tourism. What's being done to keep the city alive?

People walk at Piazza Del Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024.
Florence's Piazza Del Duomo on February 15th, 2024. The city is increasingly popular with tourists - but residents and artisans are moving out. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Florence, like Venice, is grappling with the effects of overtourism, with rent now costing 84 percent of the average person’s income, according to Mayor Dario Nardella.

Residential rents in the city increased by 42 percent between 2016 and 2023, while official figures show that the number of Airbnb listings more than doubled from 6,000 to 15,000 over the same period.

Just this week, artisans who’d been based in the city for generations reported being kicked out of their workshops in the historic centre to make way for hotels.

In January, Cecilie Hollberg, the German director of Florence’s Accademia Gallery, got into hot water for calling Florence a tourist ‘prostitute’, and was forced to apologise.

But many of The Local’s readers leapt to her defence, saying that while Hollberg’s language may have been crude, she was correct in her diagnosis.

“Over the years I’ve seen the tourist crowds get thicker and thicker, to the point that it’s hard to get around il Duomo or any of the other historic places,” said Ron Melé.

“I agree with the director but wonder how you can limit the numbers,” said Cheryl F.

READ ALSO: Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

So what exactly is being done to rescue Florence from its own popularity?

In a major step forward last October, Florence’s centre-left city council passed a landmark resolution that would ban new holiday rentals, following in the footsteps of Sud Tyrol’s Bolzano.

The measure was due to receive final approval within two months, but the vote was reportedly pushed back to the start of this year. Since then there have been little in the way of updates, indicating that the ban has yet to come into force.

Tourists look at the window of a jewellery shop on Florence’s Ponte Vecchio. As historic workshops close to make way for hotels, there have been growing calls for action to protect the city centre. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)

In December, a petition brought by a group of holiday rental operators to suspend the resolution was denied; a regional court is set to hear an appeal in May, which Nardella has vowed to fight. 

In more of a carrot-driven approach, Deputy Mayor Alessia Bettini this week told news agency AFP that the city had launched a campaign to lure visitors away from Florence’s packed city centre.

“People are increasingly looking for ‘experience-based itineraries’, so we have to promote… other points of historical, artistic, naturalistic and gastronomic interest,” she said.

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

Bettini appears to be referring to a project started in early 2022 – ironically, in partnership with Airbnb, who many residents consider to be the architect of their woes – to promote tourism experiences outside of the city.

And Florence’s official tourism website does suggest itineraries and experiences that are off the beaten track.

The problem with these kinds of initiatives is that they require visitors to actively search for and prioritise such experiences – not something that the average tourist who has budgeted two to three days to see Florence’s biggest hits is likely to do.

Elsewhere, Venice is currently trialling a ‘tourist tax’ to be imposed on day-trippers visiting the city centre on certain days in 2024. But such a system would be near impossible to implement in landlocked Florence, and critics have dismissed the plans as little more than window dressing.

A “memorandum of understanding for the sharing of good practices” on tourism, signed by tourism councillors for Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples and Rome back in November, has lofty ambitions, but is thin on details.

As things stand, Florence’s holiday rental ban looks set to be the most powerful tool in the city’s battle against overtourism – if it manages to fight off opposition from local right-wing politicians from the ruling coalition government.

Member comments

  1. In September I spent my fourth visit to Florence. The third had been just 4 years before. The difference was horrendous: huge queues everywhere now and entrance fees for just about everything. Yes, Florence has “prostituted” herself. I wish I had appreciated it more on my first visit in 1969 (when, ironically, the streets were full of prostitutes.

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TRAVEL NEWS

Labour Day: What’s open and what’s closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

Wednesday, May 1st will mark Italy’s Labour Day. But how will shops, transport services and museums be affected by the public holiday?

Labour Day: What's open and what's closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

First established back in 1890 to celebrate workers’ rights and the achievements made by Italian trade unions, Labour Day (or Festa del Lavoro) is a national public holiday in Italy, meaning a day off for many around the country.

Generally speaking, much of Italy tends to grind to a halt on public holidays and Labour Day is no exception as some services will be significantly limited or, at times, even unavailable on the day.  

But what exactly can you expect to find open, or closed, next Wednesday?

Public transport 

Most local public transport companies in the country will operate on a reduced timetable (also known as orari festivi) on May 1st, with the quality and frequency of services during the day likely to vary significantly between rural and urban areas, as well as between cities.

Areas that are usually served by just the occasional bus may see stripped-to-the-bone services on Wednesday, whereas parts of the country that already have robust public transport networks should keep them fairly active.  

Having said that, Labour Day transport services in both urban and rural areas may experience delays and/or cancellations this year due to a 24-hour general strike involving staff from public and private operators around the country.

There’s currently little information available as to exactly how the walkout will affect travel on Wednesday and what level of disruption passengers can expect, though further details are expected to become available closer to the date of the walkout. 

You can keep up with all the latest updates in our strike news section. 

Rail and air travel

Much like public transport services, regional and local trains will run on fairly reduced timetables on Wednesday, whereas most interregional and long-distance high-speed trains will run on standard weekday timetables. 

However, the normal operation of these services may be affected by the above-mentioned 24-hour general strike. 

As for air travel, inbound and outbound flights shouldn’t be affected by the strike, according to the latest reports. 

Schools and offices

Public schools in all Italian regions will be closed on May 1st. 

Pupils in Molise and Liguria will enjoy a longer break as they’ll be home from school on Monday, April 29th and Tuesday, April 30th as well.

As it’s usually the case on national public holidays, offices in both the public and private sector (this includes banks, post offices, town hall desks and CAF fiscal assistance centres) will be closed. 

Tourist attractions

Most state-run museums and archaeological sites, including Florence’s Galleria dell’Accademia and Rome’s Colosseum, will be open on Wednesday, though some may have slightly reduced hours, which is why it’s advisable to check the opening times in advance if you have a specific site you want to visit in mind. 

Privately run museums, galleries or collections may be closed on the day.

Pasticcerie, panifici and restaurants

Some panifici (bakeries) and pasticcerie (pastry shops) in major cities may remain open on Wednesday morning to allow customers to buy bread and sweets for their Labour Day lunch.  

Many restaurants will remain open on Labour Day to welcome the families who choose to dine out for the holiday. But if you’re planning on eating out on that day, it’s advisable to make a reservation in advance to avoid any unpleasant surprises later on.

Shops and supermarkets

Many supermarket chains around the country will have limited opening hours on Wednesday. For instance, some may open around 9 in the morning and then close in the early afternoon.

Most mini-markets will remain completely closed instead. 

Most shops in non-urban areas will be closed on Wednesday, whereas businesses in big cities around the country may open for either the morning only or the afternoon only.

Doctors and pharmacies

GPs’ clinics will be closed on Wednesday. 

However, should you be in need of an urgent appointment, you can ask to see a doctor from Italy’s Guardia Medica, a medical care centre that operates outside of GPs’ normal working hours and on weekends, or visit your local hospital’s ER (pronto soccorso).

Should you need to buy medicines or pick up a prescription, pharmacies in Italy operate a rota system during national holidays to ensure that at least one is open in each area. 

To find the nearest one, Google farmacia di turno plus the name of the municipality (or comune) you find yourself in.

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