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FLORENCE

‘Gone forever’: How Florence’s artisans are being pushed out by tourism

Craftsmen are being evicted to make way for hotels and holidays rentals in Florence, which locals say is suffering from the scourge of 'hit and run' tourism.

Tourists queue to enter in the Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024.
Tourists queue to enter in the Duomo in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Goldsmith Tommaso Pestelli was evicted from his historic Florence workshop to make way for a luxury hotel, the umpteenth victim of a mass tourism critics say is ravaging the Italian city.

Calls for urgent action to protect the city centre, a UNESCO site, intensified last month after a museum director said “hit and run” tourism had transformed Florence into a “prostitute”.

Some 1.5 million tourists flocked to the city last summer, up 6.6 percent on the previous year, while an increasing number of independent shops and residential apartments are being transformed into fast food outlets and holiday lets.

READ ALSO: What’s being done to save Florence from mass tourism?

“We’ve been open since 1908. If you get rid of us, and many others like us, you take away part of the city’s spirit,” said Pestelli, whose father, grandfather and great-grandfather were goldsmiths before him.

Pestelli, 55, managed to find another little workshop nearby, but says many fellow artisans have not been so lucky.

Goldsmith Tommaso Pestelli, poses in front of his former workshop, in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

The average cost of monthly residential rents leapt 42 percent between 2016 and 2023, while the number of apartments listed on Airbnb jumped from some 6,000 to nearly 15,000, official figures show.

Even in February, tourist queues snake around the block at the Duomo and throng around Michelangelo’s David.

With locals forced out and traditional shops disappearing, “Florence is becoming an empty box”, Pestelli said.

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

Elena Bellini, 47, who sells work by local artists, said the drop in the number of long-term residents was killing neighbourhoods and had lead to more crime, like attempted break-ins.

“Florence is dying!” read a notice in the window of a jewellers saying the city had been “sold” to big business.

Tourists look at the window of a jewelery shop of Ponte Vecchio in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Airbnb ban

The Tuscan capital is not alone. Venice and other top destinations like the Cinque Terre in northwest Italy have also seen locals driven away by astronomical rents, overcrowded sites and endless souvenir shops.

While Venice is trialling a ticketing system, with day visitors to be charged an entry fee in high seasons, Florence’s centre-left city council has launched a campaign to entice tourists away from the centre.

READ ALSO: Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

“People are increasingly looking for ‘experience-based itineraries’, so we have to promote… other points of historical, artistic, naturalistic and gastronomic interest,” Deputy Mayor Alessia Bettini told AFP.

Visitors to surrounding villages, castles and abbeys were up 4.5 percent in January, while the number of hikers tackling the Path of the Gods across the Apennines to Bologna rose 22 percent last year.

Tourists stand in front of a replica of the statue of David by artist Michelangelo at Piazza della Signoria in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

The council has also attempted to free up homes for local people and prevent rents spiralling further by banning new short-term private vacation rentals in the historic centre.

The measure, adopted in October, also includes tax breaks for landlords if they switch back to ordinary leases.

‘Gone forever’

Despite the ban, a dozen or so artisans are being evicted from workshops in a building near the Ponte Vecchio, amid plans to transform it for tourism.

“The Florentine goldsmith tradition is rather quickly falling to pieces,” said Pestelli.

A few streets away, Gabriele Maselli, president of Florence’s Historical Businesses Association, paints a gold picture frame by hand, rows of brightly coloured pots and powders lining the shelves behind him.

Gabriele Maselli poses in his workshop where he paints gold picture frames by hand, in Florence, on February 15, 2024. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

A large crucifix stands propped against one wall, while nearby a restorer repairs the surface of a damaged painting.

“People come to Florence for quality things, made painstakingly by hand,” 58-year-old Maselli said.

“If a business is forced to close though, it affects the whole production chain. A whole world closes, gone forever”.

By AFP’s Ella Ide.

Member comments

  1. Gabriele Maselli is correct about Florence. We live full-time in the Historic Center of Venice, and we have been watching it slowly slip away over the last few years. In 5 to 10 years, these cities will become open-air museums with no local character or charm.
    We used to enjoy Florence so much. Now, we hardly ever go.

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TRAVEL NEWS

Labour Day: What’s open and what’s closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

Wednesday, May 1st will mark Italy’s Labour Day. But how will shops, transport services and museums be affected by the public holiday?

Labour Day: What's open and what's closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

First established back in 1890 to celebrate workers’ rights and the achievements made by Italian trade unions, Labour Day (or Festa del Lavoro) is a national public holiday in Italy, meaning a day off for many around the country.

Generally speaking, much of Italy tends to grind to a halt on public holidays and Labour Day is no exception as some services will be significantly limited or, at times, even unavailable on the day.  

But what exactly can you expect to find open, or closed, next Wednesday?

Public transport 

Most local public transport companies in the country will operate on a reduced timetable (also known as orari festivi) on May 1st, with the quality and frequency of services during the day likely to vary significantly between rural and urban areas, as well as between cities.

Areas that are usually served by just the occasional bus may see stripped-to-the-bone services on Wednesday, whereas parts of the country that already have robust public transport networks should keep them fairly active.  

Having said that, Labour Day transport services in both urban and rural areas may experience delays and/or cancellations this year due to a 24-hour general strike involving staff from public and private operators around the country.

There’s currently little information available as to exactly how the walkout will affect travel on Wednesday and what level of disruption passengers can expect, though further details are expected to become available closer to the date of the walkout. 

You can keep up with all the latest updates in our strike news section. 

Rail and air travel

Much like public transport services, regional and local trains will run on fairly reduced timetables on Wednesday, whereas most interregional and long-distance high-speed trains will run on standard weekday timetables. 

However, the normal operation of these services may be affected by the above-mentioned 24-hour general strike. 

As for air travel, inbound and outbound flights shouldn’t be affected by the strike, according to the latest reports. 

Schools and offices

Public schools in all Italian regions will be closed on May 1st. 

Pupils in Molise and Liguria will enjoy a longer break as they’ll be home from school on Monday, April 29th and Tuesday, April 30th as well.

As it’s usually the case on national public holidays, offices in both the public and private sector (this includes banks, post offices, town hall desks and CAF fiscal assistance centres) will be closed. 

Tourist attractions

Most state-run museums and archaeological sites, including Florence’s Galleria dell’Accademia and Rome’s Colosseum, will be open on Wednesday, though some may have slightly reduced hours, which is why it’s advisable to check the opening times in advance if you have a specific site you want to visit in mind. 

Privately run museums, galleries or collections may be closed on the day.

Pasticcerie, panifici and restaurants

Some panifici (bakeries) and pasticcerie (pastry shops) in major cities may remain open on Wednesday morning to allow customers to buy bread and sweets for their Labour Day lunch.  

Many restaurants will remain open on Labour Day to welcome the families who choose to dine out for the holiday. But if you’re planning on eating out on that day, it’s advisable to make a reservation in advance to avoid any unpleasant surprises later on.

Shops and supermarkets

Many supermarket chains around the country will have limited opening hours on Wednesday. For instance, some may open around 9 in the morning and then close in the early afternoon.

Most mini-markets will remain completely closed instead. 

Most shops in non-urban areas will be closed on Wednesday, whereas businesses in big cities around the country may open for either the morning only or the afternoon only.

Doctors and pharmacies

GPs’ clinics will be closed on Wednesday. 

However, should you be in need of an urgent appointment, you can ask to see a doctor from Italy’s Guardia Medica, a medical care centre that operates outside of GPs’ normal working hours and on weekends, or visit your local hospital’s ER (pronto soccorso).

Should you need to buy medicines or pick up a prescription, pharmacies in Italy operate a rota system during national holidays to ensure that at least one is open in each area. 

To find the nearest one, Google farmacia di turno plus the name of the municipality (or comune) you find yourself in.

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