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FLORENCE

Has Florence really been ‘crushed’ by mass tourism?

After the director of Florence's most famous museum caused outrage by saying mass tourism has turned the city into a "prostitute", The Local's readers in the city say she has a point - and politicians should listen before it's too late.

Has Florence really been 'crushed' by mass tourism?
Tourists take pictures in front of Florence's Santa Maria Novella cathedral. (Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP)

Italy’s culture minister led angry calls for an apology this week after the German director of Florence’s Accademia Gallery branded the city a “prostitute” over its tourist crowds and their impact.

“Once a city becomes a prostitute, it is difficult for it to become a virgin again,” Cecilie Hollberg told reporters on Monday.

“Florence is very beautiful and I would like it to return to its citizens and not be crushed by tourism,” the historian added, complaining about a lack of normal shops in streets filled with souvenirs.

Culture Minister Gennaro Sangiuliano said her comments were “serious and offensive”, and threatened to take action against her, saying he would “evaluate all appropriate initiatives” available under law.

Local politicians too were outraged, with Florence’s deputy mayor asking: “are Florentines the children of a prostitute, and tourists clients of a prostitute?”

Former premier Matteo Renzi, a senator for Florence, said Hollberg “should apologise or resign”.

Hollberg did apologise shortly afterwards “for having used the wrong words,” but stressed that “Florence must be a witness for all of Italy of an increasingly conscious tourism, not ‘hit and run’ tourism.”

READ ALSO: Why Italy needs a national plan for sustainable tourism – before it’s too late

While politicians focused on the language used, many Florence visitors and residents instead said the message was important. In fact, The Local’s readers commenting on the news story voiced unanimous support for Hollberg.

“The politicians demanding an apology should stop focusing on the choice of words and instead heed the message,” commented one of The Local’s readers. “The museum director gives an accurate assessment of what tourism can do.”

Reader James commented: “The reality is that Dr Hollberg is right. Florence is on the verge of becoming uninhabitable for anyone beyond a day tourist.

“I would have expected more of our mayor than asking for her apology or resignation. Cecilie Hollberg is the best director that the Accademia has ever had, she is beyond amazing. To ask her to apologize for telling the truth is simply awful.”

READ ALSO: Has Florence banned new Airbnb rentals in the city centre?

Mike said he and his wife had visited Florence four times since 2004 and find it “an extraordinary city”, but on their last visit in 2021 the couple “were stunned to find the historic centre jammed with tourists, many of them in large groups visiting for the day.

“Streets that we once enjoyed walking down, viewing shops with wonderful displays of fabrics or stationary or food, were now lined with shops selling stuff for tourists,” he noted.

“It would be an act of political courage to return the city to something that the citizens themselves can enjoy.”

And it’s not just Florence. Mass tourism has had a negative impact on a number of Italian cities, readers agreed, with many citing Venice as the prime example as the floating city’s population continues to dwindle.

“Italy’s most prominent cities are rapidly losing their character,” said reader Arturo, adding that the nearby Tuscan city of Lucca was “also going the way of Florence and Pisa. Soon, it will also be elbow to elbow.”

Do you agree or disagree with the opinions expressed in this article? Leave a comment below to share your thoughts.

Member comments

  1. It’s really unfortunate, W have a property 50 minutes from Firenze but don’t go due to mass tourism. There a man many smaller towns as beautiful and traditional.
    I guess it’s a product of its own success, but you do reap what you sow.

  2. Visited Florence before Easter in 2022 & couldn’t believe the crowds standing elbow to elbow in the piazza in front of the Duomo. I feel so sorry for residents of the city and it wasn’t even summer!

  3. We have been visiting Florence for the past several years , enjoying walking through all the areas. This past year, when we visited it was overrun with tourists and junky souvenir kiosks. I agree with the director but wonder how you can limit the numbers. Getting rid of the souvenir kiosks is a start. There are so many artisans in Florence that should be supported instead

  4. Absolutely agree. I live here, and avoid the centre for most of the year. Our local hotel, where visiting friends used to stay, closed down just before Christmas after 30 years, driven out by the airbnbs

  5. I’m an Italian citizen but live in the US. I’ve been to Florence numerous times, the most recent in May 2023. Over the years I’ve seen the tourist crowds get thicker and thicker, to the point that it’s hard to get around il Duomo or any of the other historic places without being inundated with obnoxious tourist, buxters, pickpockets, panhandlers, trinket sellers, etc. Gone is the allure of an ancient Italian city. I am not sure what the solution is…but to allow unregulated masses of tourists, from all nations, is a mistake. We need to get this under control and preserve the culture and originality of Florence, and other cities, and not succumb to the allure of the tourism dollar, er, euro.

  6. My wife and I have traveled regularly and extensively to Florence since 1995. We love the city. Unfortunately, Florence has changed dramatically: massive short term tourism, silly rental bike/EScooter/golf cart tours in Centro’s main piazzas, and unabated expansion of AirBNBs have substantively diminished if not ruined Florence ‘s historical and cultural charm. We were planning to live and buy a home here, but are leaving, sadly.
    Dr. Philip R. Piccigallo and Rose M. Giambrone-Piccigallo

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TRAVEL NEWS

Labour Day: What’s open and what’s closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

Wednesday, May 1st will mark Italy’s Labour Day. But how will shops, transport services and museums be affected by the public holiday?

Labour Day: What's open and what's closed in Italy on May 1st 2024

First established back in 1890 to celebrate workers’ rights and the achievements made by Italian trade unions, Labour Day (or Festa del Lavoro) is a national public holiday in Italy, meaning a day off for many around the country.

Generally speaking, much of Italy tends to grind to a halt on public holidays and Labour Day is no exception as some services will be significantly limited or, at times, even unavailable on the day.  

But what exactly can you expect to find open, or closed, next Wednesday?

Public transport 

Most local public transport companies in the country will operate on a reduced timetable (also known as orari festivi) on May 1st, with the quality and frequency of services during the day likely to vary significantly between rural and urban areas, as well as between cities.

Areas that are usually served by just the occasional bus may see stripped-to-the-bone services on Wednesday, whereas parts of the country that already have robust public transport networks should keep them fairly active.  

Having said that, Labour Day transport services in both urban and rural areas may experience delays and/or cancellations this year due to a 24-hour general strike involving staff from public and private operators around the country.

There’s currently little information available as to exactly how the walkout will affect travel on Wednesday and what level of disruption passengers can expect, though further details are expected to become available closer to the date of the walkout. 

You can keep up with all the latest updates in our strike news section. 

Rail and air travel

Much like public transport services, regional and local trains will run on fairly reduced timetables on Wednesday, whereas most interregional and long-distance high-speed trains will run on standard weekday timetables. 

However, the normal operation of these services may be affected by the above-mentioned 24-hour general strike. 

As for air travel, inbound and outbound flights shouldn’t be affected by the strike, according to the latest reports. 

Schools and offices

Public schools in all Italian regions will be closed on May 1st. 

Pupils in Molise and Liguria will enjoy a longer break as they’ll be home from school on Monday, April 29th and Tuesday, April 30th as well.

As it’s usually the case on national public holidays, offices in both the public and private sector (this includes banks, post offices, town hall desks and CAF fiscal assistance centres) will be closed. 

Tourist attractions

Most state-run museums and archaeological sites, including Florence’s Galleria dell’Accademia and Rome’s Colosseum, will be open on Wednesday, though some may have slightly reduced hours, which is why it’s advisable to check the opening times in advance if you have a specific site you want to visit in mind. 

Privately run museums, galleries or collections may be closed on the day.

Pasticcerie, panifici and restaurants

Some panifici (bakeries) and pasticcerie (pastry shops) in major cities may remain open on Wednesday morning to allow customers to buy bread and sweets for their Labour Day lunch.  

Many restaurants will remain open on Labour Day to welcome the families who choose to dine out for the holiday. But if you’re planning on eating out on that day, it’s advisable to make a reservation in advance to avoid any unpleasant surprises later on.

Shops and supermarkets

Many supermarket chains around the country will have limited opening hours on Wednesday. For instance, some may open around 9 in the morning and then close in the early afternoon.

Most mini-markets will remain completely closed instead. 

Most shops in non-urban areas will be closed on Wednesday, whereas businesses in big cities around the country may open for either the morning only or the afternoon only.

Doctors and pharmacies

GPs’ clinics will be closed on Wednesday. 

However, should you be in need of an urgent appointment, you can ask to see a doctor from Italy’s Guardia Medica, a medical care centre that operates outside of GPs’ normal working hours and on weekends, or visit your local hospital’s ER (pronto soccorso).

Should you need to buy medicines or pick up a prescription, pharmacies in Italy operate a rota system during national holidays to ensure that at least one is open in each area. 

To find the nearest one, Google farmacia di turno plus the name of the municipality (or comune) you find yourself in.

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