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FOOD AND DRINK

What is ‘pyttipanna’ and why is Sweden serving it up to the French president?

French President Emmanuel Macron is visiting Sweden this week, where he will be fed the unusual combination of pyttipanna with bearnaise sauce - a menu with an unexpected royal history.

What is 'pyttipanna' and why is Sweden serving it up to the French president?
Pyttipanna topped with a fried egg and served with pickled beetroot. Photo: Becky Waterton/The Local

Editor’s note on February 1st: Despite pyttipanna grabbing headlines ahead of the visit, it turns out that Macron was not served the traditional hash with bearnaise sauce during his visit to Lund. Instead he was treated to gravlax with fennel and dill cream, smoked ham with artichoke purée and pickled mushroom, shrimp tartelettes and Västerbotten cheese pie with fish roe, reported Kristianstadsbladet.

First, what actually is pyttipanna?

Well, it’s a Swedish dish made up of some kind of meat (most often pork), mixed with potatoes and onion, all chopped up into small pieces and fried until crispy, before serving with a fried egg and pickled beetroot.

Despite originally consisting of leftovers, most people nowadays would make it from fresh ingredients or buy a bag from the supermarket to fry up for a quick dinner. Opinion is divided as to whether the name means “put-in-pan” or “small pieces in a pan”.

It’s similar to a hash (which actually gets it’s name from the French word hacher, to chop up), a dish made up of chopped meat (often canned corned beef), potatoes and fried onions, which was popular in the UK and France during the Second World War when fresh meat was scarce.

It’s an odd choice for a visiting head of state. It’s the kind of food served in Swedish schools – and indeed Swedish homes – as it’s beloved by children. Simply put, it’s not the kind of fine dining you’d expect to be served to a president – especially not a French one.

Arguably, the weirdest thing about the menu choice is the bearnaise sauce. 

Now, Swedes love bearnaise. It’s affectionately known as bea, is found in every Swedish supermarket in about 20 different variations has existed as a crisp flavour, and is often used as a pizza topping alongside chips, but it’s not a traditional accompaniment to pyttipanna. Admittedly, the only sauce most Swedes would be eating their pyttipanna with is ketchup, or HP sauce, which isn’t particularly fitting for a president either.

You may be thinking that this is a nod to Macron’s homeland where bearnaise sauce is from, or an attempt to put a gourmet spin on standard Swedish home cooking, but in fact you can blame Denmark for this culinary curiosity.

So, more specifically, Macron will be treated to the dish when he visits Lund University to speak at a student evening (studentafton). Now, this already makes more sense, as pyttipanna is the kind of dish you can imagine a student heating up in their shared flat after a day of lectures.

Now, it’s somewhat of a tradition for Lund to host visiting politicians, literary and cultural profiles at these student evenings, which have been taking place for over a hundred years.

Every Swedish prime minister has taken part in a studentafton since Per Albin Hansson became prime minister in 1932, as well as the presidents, prime ministers and chancellors of other countries like Estonia, Finland, South Africa, Austria and, yes, France.

Lund is the kind of university which likes its odd traditions, and studentaftnar are no exception. The story goes that when Queen Margrethe of Denmark visited Lund in 2005, she requested pyttipanna – known as biksemad in Denmark – with bearnaise sauce.

“That’s what Queen Margrethe wanted when she visited us in 2005,” Lund student evening chair Frida Eriksson told Swedish radio ahead of Macron’s visit.

“It’s been like that since then. All the guests think it’s great.”

It remains to be seen whether Macron likes pyttipanna with bearnaise sauce or not, but whatever he thinks of it, he can be proud to join a long line of politicians, celebrities and other officials who have been served the unusual combination.

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READER INSIGHTS

‘We all cheer each other on’: How we made friends in Sweden

Sweden is often rated as a difficult country to make friends in. We asked those who've been there, done that – or in other words, The Local's readers – how they met their closest friends in Sweden.

'We all cheer each other on': How we made friends in Sweden

“They are so supportive, caring and understanding,” said Erin Swoverland, a reader from the US, about her friends. “We all listen, lift each other up and cheer each other on. I feel so incredibly lucky to have such amazing women in my corner.”

She met most of them at a gym in Stockholm. 

“I attended a Friday training class for women and the rest is history. I will say I think it being a small, independent gym made all the difference as we actually spoke to each other. I haven’t had the same interactions at larger chains,” she said.

Erin was one of dozens of readers who responded to The Local’s question about how they found their friends in Sweden, sparked by a recent survey which showed that 13 percent of foreigners lack a close friend (double the number of Swedes who said the same thing).

A lot of readers alluded to the part-truth, part-stereotype that Swedes tend to compartmentalise their lives and prefer organised fun over spontaneous activities, and one of the classic strategies that always comes up in these discussions is to join some kind of club or society.

The benefit of “organised fun” is that Sweden has a vibrant föreningsliv (literally “association life”), with many people involved in for example their local football club, gaming hub, gardening society, trade union, hiking club, or even just being on the board of their housing association.

“As I always liked cycling, running, badminton, indoor climbing and a few other sports, I found groups on Meetup for such activities. This helped me meet like-minded people. Soon afterwards, some of us started to hang out together for beers or pizzas etc. Thanks to these people we started to invite other people to our gatherings. Finally today, I have a large network of very interesting and close friends (immigrants as well as Swedish friends). When I look back, I realise that it was much easier to get to know people in events having just six to eight people. If you go in a large group setting it is difficult to meet people as splinter groups start getting formed,” said a Pakistani reader.

“I have been in Sweden for over 15 years now. During this time our close friendship network has just increased. Like any friends, we fight and argue at times, but at the same time I know that my friends care about me. I feel at home in Sweden with this circle of friends.”

He wasn’t the only one who suggested joining a society (although one reader cautioned against “survivorship bias” and pointed out that not everyone manages to turn up at event and immediately make friends). Even if you don’t join a traditional club, readers recommended plenty of other networking opportunities, including sites or friendship apps such as Meetup, Bumble BFF, Panion and GoFrendly.

Nathan Lloyd, a Welshman in Malmö, recommends networking meetups, even if they’re not directly relevant to your own field, as well as Facebook groups. He met his best friend, Brian, via Grindr – not the only one we’ve heard of who made platonic friends on dating apps.

“He’s truly my best friend. Been friends for over six years,” he said. “We enjoy loppising together, going out in nature, birdwatching and art, a major thing we bonded over. He’s been there through highs and lows and helped me in emergency situations when I’ve needed someone.”

Nathan Lloyd, centre, with his friend, Brian, and partner, Tom, at the Konstrundan art weekend in southern Sweden. Photo: Private

Not being afraid of putting yourself out there and making the first move was another tip that came up in the survey, with many describing Swedes as warm friends – perhaps even surprisingly warm – once you break through the shell.

“First and foremost, don’t try too hard. Best friends are the organic ones that come in your life at the moments you don’t expect. Be open and give a shot to those who seem to be more open. Swedes who have been abroad frequently are exceptionally more pleasant to keep around,” said Hadi from Iran, who first moved to Sweden in 2010 and now lives in the south of the country.

OPINION:

Peter, a reader who works at Lund University in southern Sweden, befriended his new neighbour after knocking on their door to ask if he could use their wifi until he managed to get his own.

“We have been very good friends ever since, even after I moved to another town. I find Swedes to be very friendly in general, but sometimes I need to make the first effort,” he said.

Robert Blomstrand, a born Swede who lived most of his life abroad, says he and his South African wife, Vanessa, met amazing friends in church and were surprised by their warmth and care.

“Through this we learned Swedish and had many wonderful Swedish experiences (sailing, meals, celebrations). Still very good friends,” he said.

Robert Blomstrand’s friends on a sailing trip to the Gothenburg archipelago. Photo: Private

Ioannis, based in southern Stockholm, said he met most of his friends through university or work and then made sure that the friendships were maintained after studies finished or work changed.

“Important first step was to accept that it is me, the one that has to make an effort. Then show interest in others, learn about who they are and how they are like. Share experiences with them, also offer help and support and ask for help and support. Independence and individualism can be an obstacle in creating social bonds. Make the effort, without expecting same returns. Give it time.”

“I believe that if you want a friend, you have to be a friend first,” said Jeremiah from the US. “My friends are people who were willing to invest in a building a relationship because they didn’t have them locally. We connected over the shared experience of being displaced and learning how to adult again. The connections grew because we had other shared interests, were willing to spend more time together, and were willing to help each other.”

“Focus on finding people who like doing things that you enjoy, like going to museums, movies, etc,” said a Stockholm-based reader, who made friends with his colleague after inviting him to a drag show at the Abba Museum.

“It’s so much easier to make friends during the things you like. Like any relationship, don’t try and rush it,” he added. “Just continue to reach out for times to hang out, and be OK with them not always saying yes the first time. We’re all busy. I also found it easier to make friends with folks, particularly Swedes, who weren’t from Stockholm (or whatever city you’re living in) as they generally have smaller networks/ open to make new friends in Stockholm.

Several readers expressed sadness that they hadn’t made any Swedish friends and that all their friends were fellow foreigners.

“I made friends through work (international company) and from my country of origin. I don’t have any Swedish friends even though I have been living in Stockholm for 15 years,” said a Colombian reader.

Some readers, however, argued that it isn’t necessarily strange, or a negative, that foreigners end up with foreigners, as you share similar experiences. Having a community with people you feel close to and have something in common with matters more than who they are.

“Close friendships are built because you share some experiences in life. I was an immigrant in Sweden, hence like all immigrants in Sweden I faced many issues time after time, for example issues related to visa or bank accounts,” said the Pakistani reader from the start of the article. “It is much easier to connect with people when you share similar issues. Don’t be afraid to talk about your experiences. This helps to bring us closer.”

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