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DISCOVER FRANCE

Hiking in France: The GR footpaths explained

France is a hiker's dream with more than 70,000 kilometres of footpaths making up the Grande Randonnée (GR) network. Here's how to find a trail that suits you and plan your trip.

Hiking in France: The GR footpaths explained
A picture shows a path sign as hikers walk on the GR 20 hiking trail near Ghisoni, on the French Mediterranean island of Corsica, on May 26, 2022. (Photo by Pascal POCHARD-CASABIANCA / AFP)

If you have spent any time in nature in France, you may have noticed or heard talk of the “GR” trails – like the GR 34 that wraps around Brittany or the GR 4 which goes from the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean – these are numbered and signposted footpaths that criss-cross several countries in western Europe.

They are particularly notable in France, which is home to thousands of kilometres of GR hiking paths. You can see a map of them all here.

Many of them have romantic nicknames like the Mont Blanc trail or the excise-men’s trail but they also have a GR number.

In France, the GR routes have been maintained by the French hiking federation and volunteers since 1947. They wind across the entire country: some follow historic or spiritual footpaths, while others pass through national parks and other exceptional natural sites. 

A GR might take you around a mountain range (like the challenging ‘GR TMB, le Tour du Mont-Blanc) or simply through fields and villages. 

Origins

The GR routes were first created by Frenchman Jean Loiseau, who loved to walk and hike in the years following World War I.

After France introduced paid holidays in 1936, Loiseau became passionate about sharing his love for hiking with the rest of the country, drawing inspiration from the Appalachian Trail (completed in 1937) for its clear path markings.

READ MORE: 13 of France’s best hiking and cycling routes

According to the hiking federation website, it was in 1947 when the Comité National des Sentiers de Grande Randonnée (National Committee for Long-distance Hiking Trails) was first created, marking the start of the hiking federation.

Later that same year the first section of the GR 3 was inaugurated in Orléans, running between Dammartin-en-Goel and Orry-la-Ville.

How to follow them

Thanks to technology, there are now apps and websites devoted to helping people plan their perfect GR itinerary, including a helpful planning site run by the hiking federation.

Once you’re on the trial, there are also helpful route markings.

The French GR symbol that you are going in the right direction looks like an equals sign, with the top line in white and the bottom in red.

When the path changes direction, a small white arrow will appear below the red line. If you are going the wrong way, you will be informed by a red and white ‘X’.

Which ones are the best?

There are too many GR routes to choose from, and each of them offers something special. Many people opt to just hike a small portion of the trail, rather than the whole thing, while others take on the challenge of walking the entire path.

Here are a few standouts;

The longest GR in France – Even though the GR 34 (Sentier des Douaniers) is the longest footpath, it is also one of France’s most accessible. 

It stretches over 2,000km, taking you around the coastline in Brittany. It alternates from beaches and cliffs, passing through the Emerald Coast and nearby to Mont-Saint-Michel.

The shortest GR in France – The GR 92 is just 23km long, and an experienced hiker can complete it in under 10 hours. That being said, its a bit of a tricky route, located in Vaucluse and linking the towns of Apt and Sannes via the Lubéron mountain range.

The hardest GR in France – This might be a bit subjective, but many people consider the GR TMB (Mont-Blanc) to be one of the most challenging. Even though it is surrounded by magnificent scenery, it takes you on a 170km loop around Mont Blanc, with 10,000m of elevation climb. It takes most people around 7-10 days to do the whole thing.

The island GR – Also reputed to be extremely difficult, the GR 20 crosses the Mediterranean island of Corsica running approximately north–south. It’s approximately 180km long, but there is a whole lot of elevation gain (12,000m).

The Chemin de Stevenson – The GR 70 follows in the footsteps of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, authors of classics including Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Treasure Island plus – probably more pertinently in this context Travels with a Donkey in the Cévannes. If you like the sound of that, there are still companies in France that run ‘donkey hike holidays’, where you are loaned a donkey to carry your gear while undertaking a multiple-stage hike.

The trail runs through central France, covering 270km between Le Puy-en-Velay (Haute-Loire) and Alès (Gard).

Camino de Santiago

One of the world’s most famous hiking routes may finish in Spain, but large portions of it are in France. Every year thousands of people complete some or all of the historic pilgrim route – some for religious reasons and others who simply love a challenging hike.

The most popular Camino de Santiago route from France goes along the GR65, or the Chemin du Puy, which starts in the Auvergne region and runs for 736km, but there are several different routes which link up to GR trails.

The route is also known in France as the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, and is marked along the way with a cockle shell icon.

You can find the complete list of GR trails here.

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PARIS

Discover the ‘coolest street in Paris’

Named among Time Out magazine's '30 coolest streets in the world', this thoroughfare is not in the classic mode of Parisian elegance, but instead showcases a different and very fun side of the city.

Discover the 'coolest street in Paris'

Rue de Belleville, which straddles Paris 19th and 20th arrondissements in the northern part of the city, was recently named among the 30 ‘coolest streets’ in the world by Time Out magazine.

The Parisian street ranked 20th, with streets such as High Street in Melbourne, Hollywood Road in Hong Kong and East Eleventh in Austin topping the podium.

According to the travel magazine, cities were chosen for their “bold, creative new ventures in food, drink, nightlife and culture,” with many emphasising outdoor drinking and dining, as well as “green initiatives”, making the area for walkable and pleasant.

What’s special about Rue de Belleville?

It is not located in central Paris, it’s not near to the banks of the Seine river and monuments like the Notre-Dame Cathedral and it gives a different vibe to those beautiful but touristy areas.

Rue de Belleville runs up a hill, going from the Belleville Metro station to the Porte des Lilas station at the edge of the city.

If you start at Porte des Lilas and walk downhill into the city you will get a great view of Paris spread out in front of you, while about halfway down the Eiffel Tower suddenly appears through a gap in the buildings.

Like Montmartre, Belleville was once a suburb of Paris and did not officially become part of the city until the mid 19th century. At that time it was a run down area and its most famous daughter Edith Piaf (born at 72 Rue de Belleville) grew up in poverty in the area.

Historically working-class, the Belleville neighbourhood has long been a key location for new immigrant communities coming to Paris. From German Jews fleeing the Third Reich in the 1930s to north African immigrants in the 1960s, Belleville has remained diverse.

In the 1970s, refugees from French Indochina arrived and opened shops and restaurants. Nowadays, Belleville is one of Paris’ two Chinatowns.

In the past few years, the neighbourhood – and especially Rue de Belleville itself – has become an increasingly popular location for eating, drinking and strolling around a less touristic part of Paris.

What to do nearby?

Time Out recommends drinking at the trendy cocktail bars Combat and Kissproof, or testing out the wine bar la Cale.

They advise eating at the Michelin recognised Cheval d’Or restaurant (it’s not actually on Rue de Belleville but on a side street) – The Local agrees and recommends getting the duck and trying their interesting selection of ‘natural’ wines.

Mian Guan for noodles and street food is Time Out’s other recommendation. 

As for the team at The Local, we recommend getting tasty dumplings at Ravioli Chinois Nord-Est and then breaking off from the main road to check out the graffiti alley-way, Rue Dénoyez.

Once you’ve had your street art fill, head back to Rue de Belleville and make your way up the hill toward the Jourdain Metro station and taking a slight detour along the Rue de la Villette.

Enjoy some window-shopping at the cute boutiques, grab a coffee at Mardi and make your way down to the Buttes-Chaumont park.

We cannot disagree with the recommendation to ‘chill out in Belleville Park to admire the view’, and karaoke at Chinatown Belleville is always a fun time.

Belleville is also the location for good markets, especially on public holidays where local creatives display their wares.

READ MORE: ‘Avoid the Eiffel Tower’ – What to see if you’re visiting Paris for just one day

How do I get there?

By Metro, you can take either line 2 or 11 to the Belleville station. You can also get off at from the 11 at nearby Pyrénées, Jourdain and Télégraphe stations (for a short walk).

Other Paris rankings with Time Out

The travel magazine also listed a few other Paris neighbourhoods and landmarks in its ‘best of’ rankings for 2024.

In their ‘40 coolest neighbourhoods in the world‘, Paris’ Haut-Maris, “sandwiched between the touristy Marais and the more boho 11th”. 

The magazine also ranked Paris in 11th place in its ’50 best cities in the world’ ranking, with the southern, coastal city of Marseille taking 45th place.

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