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OPINION AND ANALYSIS

OPINION: Why Italians complain they’ve no money but still holiday and eat out

Italians often say the are out of pocket, yet they always seem to find enough cash to go on holiday and dine out at restaurants. Silvia Marchetti explains why.

OPINION: Why Italians complain they've no money but still holiday and eat out
A couple enjoys an 'aperitivo' at a bar in Rome's Ponte Milvio district in May 2020. Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP

I often hear colleagues and friends complain they have low salaries and can’t make ends meet, but then somehow have just enough money to go on holiday twice a year, eat out and go for drinks after work every week. 

This is something that also baffles foreigners I have spoken to, and it is tied to the Italian mindset and lifestyle. 

Italians are addicted to leisure, festivities are sacrosanct as are ponti (long weekends), and they can’t seem to skip going out on weekends, eating at restaurants, having an aperitivo even during working days, and clubbing at least twice a month.

READ ALSO: Aperol and aperitivo: A guide to visiting bars and cafes in Italy

And it’s not just young people, but also adults. Friends of mine who earn €1,500 per month can end up spending up to €150 per night on weekends for fancy dinners and cocktails, plus another €200 for a day trip. People I know without jobs always have daily cash to buy a pack a cigarettes per day and enjoy a pizza with friends twice a week. 

I’m not saying everyone does: many people really struggle with finances and make huge sacrifices.

But where does the money come from that many complain they don’t have? 

Lampedusa, Italy

A view of the popular Guitgia beach on the Italian island of Lampedusa in May 2021. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

More often than not it’s from their family, either their parents or relatives, and also from rentals of properties and patches of land. The majority of Italians own a first home, meaning they don’t pay taxes on it, plus typically enlarged families tend to own second homes, no matter how small, which they often rent as safe revenue streams. 

A friend of mine with a 400 square-metre farmhouse handed down from his shepherd parents rents four rooms at €200 each per month. He only earns €800 working as a bartender. My cleaning lady leases a five-hectare olive grove in Rome’s countryside to a farmer for €5,000 per year, while making just €10 per hour doing house chores. 

We have a phrase for this: ‘Campare di rendita’, meaning ‘put your feet up for life’ by relying on indirect income that doesn’t stem from active work, and confidence that no matter how financially bad one’s doing, there are always safety nets linked to family possessions, at all social levels. 

A job may come and go but a leased room, henhouse, orchard or tiny rural cottage is an investment for life. 

Pocket money from kind grandparents’ pensions also comes in handy. Whoever lives up to 80-years-old after having worked their entire life is sure to have set aside some savings for their grandchildren, who know who to turn to for weekend cash. 

It’s not just a matter of priorities, it’s a cultural mindset and way of life. Making sacrifices and staying at home, skipping a tavern meal or a short fun weekend touring remote villages or just a drink with friends, because you are short of money is a no-no for most. 

Italians may jokingly complain they have a hard time getting to the end of the month with their salary, but they give too much importance to appearances to miss out on the fun. They still want to be seen as cool, showing off they can afford a short holiday or a restaurant meal anyway. 

Rialto, Venice

A couple enjoys a coffee in a bar next to Venice’s Rialto bridge in April 2021. Photo by ANDREA PATTARO / AFP

My granny had a saying: “Never admit how bad you’re faring, joke about it but then always show others you have the means to do everything, even if you don’t.”

In the south, where the showy culture is stronger than in the north, the ‘campare di rendita’ approach rules. Young people, even when jobless, sit back and wait for brighter times, knowing that in the meantime they can hang out at their uncle’s summer house for six months straight or rely on renting their car to the next-door neighbour for €20 a day. 

There’s also another factor to take into account. Cost of living in Italy is relatively low compared to other countries, which helps spread the belief that anyone can afford a €8 pizza or a €25 four-course tavern meal at a rural restaurant. B&Bs across Italy in low season may charge even just €25 per room, hotels about €75. 

Then there are Italians who really go to great lengths to find money and aren’t afraid to run into debt. 

READ ALSO: Why the long August holidays are untouchable for Italians

I was shocked last summer when I read about thousands of families asking for bank loans of up to €6,500 just to go on holiday, to be paid back in four years with interests. Having new clothes or the latest pair of pumps and sneakers even if expensive, is another must, as is owning a cool car no matter for how many years one must pay monthly instalments, which rise in time. 

Grumbling lightheartedly about not having money but then having it for leisure is often just a façade of the social mask many Italians put on to show ‘che va tutto bene’ – all is well. 

Member comments

  1. Excellent article which explains very well a part of Italian culture that many foreigners may not know about.

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MOVING TO ITALY

Readers recommend: Eight books you must read to understand Italy

After we published our own recommendations of some of the best books to read for those considering a move to Italy, The Local's readers weighed in with suggestions of your own.

Readers recommend: Eight books you must read to understand Italy

In our previous guide to some of the best books to read before moving to Italy, we asked our readers to get in touch with your recommendations.

A number of you responded with your favourite reads about Italy; here’s what you suggested:

Ciao Bella – Six Take Italy

An anonymous reader describes this as “a delightful book about an Australian radio presenter who takes her husband and four children Bologna for a year which turns into two years (one being Covid).”

Kate Langbroek’s comic memoir “had me laughing and crying,” they write.

A Small Place in Italy

An apt choice for those considering their own rural Italian renovation project, Sam Cross recommends this book by British writer Eric Newby about buying, remodelling and moving into a cottage in the Tuscan countryside.

Cross also recommends Newby’s earlier work, ‘Love and War in the Appennines’, about his time as a British prisoner of war captured in Italy by the Germans in WWII.

READ ALSO: Eight of the best books to read before moving to Italy

Here, the author tells of his escape assisted by local partisans, “including a girl, Wanda, who became his future wife. A beautiful story,” says Cross.

The Italians

The Italians is written by veteran Italy correspondent John Hooper, who formerly wrote for the Guardian and is now the Economist’s Italy and Vatican reporter.

From politics to family traditions and the Mafia, the book tackles a range of aspects of Italian history and culture without getting lost in the weeds.

Simone in Rome describes it as “the best single volume on Italian customs and culture there is”.

READ ALSO: Nine things to expect if you move to rural Italy

Venice

It may be more than six decades old, but Jan Morris’s Venice is still considered one of the definitive English-language works on the lagoon city.

Book, Venice, library

A woman reads a book in Venice’s famous Acqua Alta library. Photo by Clay Banks on Unsplash

Though a work of non-fiction, the book has been compared to Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited for its nostalgic, evocative tone.

“A personal view, beautifully written,” recommends reader Mary Austern.

Thin Paths

Described as a mix of travel book and memoir, Thin Paths is written by Julia Blackburn, who moved with her husband into a small house in the hills of Liguria in 1999.

Despite arriving with no Italian, over time she befriended her elderly neighbours, who took her into their confidence and shared stories of the village’s history under the control of a tyrannical landowner and the outbreak of World War II.

“Write it down for us,” they told her, “because otherwise it will all be lost.”

READ ALSO: Six things foreigners should expect if they live in Rome

In Other Words

If you’re currently learning Italian, consider Pulitzer Prize-winning author Jhumpa Lahiri’s In Other Words / In Altre Parole, which discusses the writer’s journey towards mastery of Italian through full immersion.

Reader Brett says, “The book is written in both Italian and English, presented on opposite pages, so it’s also a nice learning tool!”

Lahiri has since written Racconti Romani, or Roman Tales, a series of short stories set in and around Rome riffing off Alberto Moravia’s 1954 short story collection of the same name.

A Rosie Life in Italy

Ginger Hamilton says she would “highly recommend the ‘A Rosie Life in Italy’ series by Rosie Meleady.”

It’s “the delightfully written true story of an Irish couple’s move to Italy, purchase of a home, the process of rehabbing it, and their life near Lago di Trasimeno.”

The Dark Heart of Italy

Reader William describes The Dark Heart of Italy by Tobias Jones as an “excellent” book.

The product of a three-year journey across the Italy, Jones takes on the darker side of Italian culture, from organised crime to excessive bureaucracy.

Though it was published in 2003, Dark Heart stands the test of time: “twenty-odd years old but the essential truth of it hasn’t changed,” William writes.

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