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FOOD AND DRINK

Eating out in Stockholm: A place in which to see and be seen

Riche Fenix is a bustling and trendy newly opened bar which is the cool younger sister to Riche. It's ideal for after-work drinks, a pre-dinner aperitif, or a post-dinner glass of wine and dessert, writes Lauren Abston in this restaurant review.

Eating out in Stockholm: A place in which to see and be seen
Scrumptious ravioli in a frothy mushroom cream at Riche Fenix. Photo: Lauren Abston

My friend Emelie and I arrive at Riche Fenix on a late summer’s day for after-work drinks after a walk through the city.

I am glad to know that it’s drop-in only, because it is absolutely the place to be on this balmy Friday afternoon, and it would be intimidating otherwise. Patrons are spilling from the neon red arches onto the sidewalk and street, mingling and laughing.

There is no name on the front, but we know it’s the bar from the quite scary, imposing stone phoenix carved above the doorway.

Not knowing where to go in the cavernous space, we push our way through the entrance, are kindly greeted by the bouncer, go past the standing room-only bar, and into the back room where we are welcomed by a handsome waiter with dreamy blue eyes and wavy dark hair.

He asks in Swedish if we want to just drink or eat and drink, and Emelie confirms we would like to do both, and he seats us at a two-top that feels reserved for just us.

Sitting down we look around. All of the decor details are impeccably thought out, from the modern sconce lighting and Matisse-like coasters to the polished light wood benches that evoke a modern diner experience and green marble terrazzo on the stairs down to the bathroom. 

Emelie is Swedish, so the whole time we speak in Swedish to the waiter and he is patient as I stumble through my basic command of the language. The plan is to come for only one drink, but the food on the menu looks too delicious to pass up, so we order the fried zucchini blossoms and the tuna melt.

To drink, Emelie opts for a Peroni and I choose a Galipette cider, declining the offer of ice to go with it; I have found the distinctly Swedish trend of having ice with cider a custom of which I am not a huge fan.

The food is whisked out by a different waiter and is presented beautifully. We quickly demolish our spicy nduja and creamy ricotta zucchini blossoms, as well as the buttery tuna melt that is served with a side of quick pickled celery and paper thin red onions.

Still hungry, we order the mushroom ravioli. The rustic, hand-formed dumpling-like pieces that arrive in a frothy mushroom cream are heavy and filling.

The two women at the table next to us opt for lighter fare and have two green salads piled high with edible flower garnishes. They have ordered wine to drink, which is what I will do the next time I’m there, knowing the specially crafted wine list is worth a try.

We finish the food plates, which are quite small portion sizes, next our drinks and then we head outside to the still bustling Götgatan before we say our goodbyes. 

I recommend dining at the older sibling, Riche, for a classic, elevated Östermalm experience, but I would more enthusiastically advise first trying out Riche Fenix for an atypical, hip and low-key fancy upplevelse (experience).

I really like that it is drop-in only as there are just a few nice places that feel as spontaneous in Stockholm. There are also good spots for larger groups of about six people to sit down.

You could arrive with more people and stand at the bar inside or at tables outside, but now only if you bring a warm jacket!

They also have a calendar of upcoming musicians and art displays that will be hosted at Riche Fenix, so it may be worth a look to see what’s happening before you decide to go. 

Riche Fenix 

Rating: Four stars

Location: Götgatan 40, 118 26 Stockholm

Price: Savoury: 65 to 200 kronor; Sweet: 45 to 110 kronor

Details: Closed Sunday and Monday. Tuesday through Saturday 4pm-1am

This review is the writer’s own opinion and the rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price and quality considered. Five stars: Outstanding on every level; a must go. Four stars: Excellent and recommend visiting. Three stars: Very good. Two stars: Good, but wouldn’t return. One star: Not great, do not recommend. 

Lauren Abston moved to Stockholm two years ago from San Francisco. She loves exploring all the city has to offer, trying out new restaurants and bars with friends, picking up new Swedish words and learning how to dress for four distinct seasons.

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MALMÖ

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Malmö in southern Sweden may be more well known for cheap falafel than upmarket wine bars, but that doesn't mean there's nowhere in the city for you to enjoy a glass (or two...).

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Julie

This wine bar in the Gamla Väster neighbourhood – Malmö’s old town – specialises in natural wines, always offering at least 16 still wines, alongside other specialty wines like pet nats, champagne and sherry.

They offer wines by the bottle, with a smaller number of wines available by the glass, with seasonal alcohol-free options available. Food-wise, they do cheese and charcuterie alongside small plates based on locally produced ingredients – look out for their supper clubs with local chefs.

They don’t take reservations with exceptions for special events, like supper clubs, wine tastings or similar.

Although it has the feel of a specialty wine shop, Swedish alcohol laws mean that Julie can’t sell bottles for you to take home, so you’ll have to enjoy their wines on-site. Luckily, you can take home their cheeses and charcuterie.

Prices vary widely depending on the wine. Glasses start at around 65 kronor with food costing around 150-450 kronor.

Address: Tegelgårdsgatan 9

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-10pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Freja

Freja is a cafe and wine bar in the upmarket Davidshall neighbourhood just off the main shopping street. It opens at 9am (alcohol served from 11am), making it a great place for coffee and breakfast, lunch, or dinner and wine in the evening.

During the warmer months, they have an outdoor serving area on the Davidshall square.

They offer a handful of wines by the glass – reds, whites, orange and rosé, many of which are natural wines – with more on offer by the bottle. 

In terms of food, they do simple small plates, such as focaccia with burrata, mortadella and pistachio pesto, filled almond croissants or avocado toast with Danish Vesterhav cheese. Owner Agnes Hansson’s family own a farm around 40 kilometres east of Malmö in Skåne, where much of the cafe’s produce comes from.

Expect to pay between 80 and 160 kronor for a small plate, slightly less for snacks or desserts.

Address: Davidshallstorg 9

Opening hours: Tues 9am-4pm, Weds-Thurs 9am-9pm, Friday 9am-11pm, Saturday 9am-9pm, Sunday 9am-4pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Aster

This hip wine bar in Varvsstaden in Västra Hamnen may be more well known for its seasonal cocktails and natural wines – many of which are European – but it’s worth a trip for the food, too.

Aster won three awards at the Malmö Gastronomy Awards when it opened in 2021, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a wood-fired oven and grill in the open kitchen, with ingredients often sourced from the restaurant’s own garden.

The menu changes seasonally, and at the time of writing it included dishes such as smoked lamb ribs with kimchi and homegrown veg, grilled halibut with greens served with a white wine and crayfish sauce, as well as veggie dishes with grilled pumpkin, cannellini beans and oyster mushroom.

Expect to pay around 50-100 kronor for nibbles, 150-195 kronor for small dishes, 275-300 kronor for large plates (or 995 kronor for an 800g dry aged sirloin steak). Desserts 75-115 kronor.

Address: Jagaregatan 6

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11:30pm, Friday noon-midnight, Saturday 4pm-midnight

 
 
 
 
 
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Far i Hatten

This charming little restaurant in the middle of Folkets Park started life as a park restaurant with an outdoor dance floor in the late 1800s. 

It’s a strange place in some ways – it’s the perfect place to go for pizza and ice cream with children during the day, situated right next to a huge playground, but at night it transforms into a bustling bar and nightclub with a surprisingly long wine list.

Again, they have a long list of natural wines on offer, but there’s so much to choose from that you’re sure to find something you like no matter your tastes.

The dance floor is still very much in use, too – Far i Hatten hosts regular events and concerts, both for children during the day and for adults later on towards the evening.

Address: Folkets Park 2, Amiralsgatan 35

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11pm, Fri 4pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-8am

 
 
 
 
 
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MJ’s

MJ’s is technically a hotel (it was even crowned Sweden’s Leading Boutique Hotel for 2024), but they have a gorgeous covered indoor courtyard where you can enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner along with a glass of wine from their 11-page wine menu. 

This is sorted not only by type of wine (red, white, rosé, champagne, rosé champagne, cremant and pet nats), but also by country, with organic wines, natural wines, and skin contact wines all marked on the menu.

You can enjoy their wines alongside simple snacks – olives and almonds or a small cheese or charcuterie board – or larger dishes like beef tartare, asparagus with lumpfish roe or haddock sashimi. They also have a number of vegetarian options.

They also have a bar area (The Lobby Bar) which do cocktails and DJ sets on the weekend, and a speakeasy bar (Lillies) open on Friday and Saturday nights. 

Address: Mäster Johansgatan 13 (entrance to Lillies on Isak Slaktaregatan 5)

Opening hours: Restaurant: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-1:30pm, Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Saturdays 1pm-10pm, Sundays noon-3pm. Lillies: Fri-Sat 8pm-1am

 
 
 
 
 
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