SHARE
COPY LINK

NORWEGIAN TRADITIONS

IN PICTURES: Crossing glaciers and fjords: Norwegian reindeer migrate for winter

A herd of reindeer with white, brown or grey coats climb mountains and swim between glaciers on their great migration to their winter pasture in Norway's far north.

Several hundred reindeer swim across Jokelfjord, on route to their winter pastures in Northern Norway, on September 14, 2023.
Several hundred reindeer swim across Jokelfjord, on route to their winter pastures in Northern Norway, on September 14, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

Over fourteen days, an AFP photographer followed the Kautokeino reindeer on their way back from their summer pasture in Seglvik to the Kautokeino lands near the Finnish border.

A herd of reindeer forms a tight pack before swimming across a fjord in Reinfjord, in Northern Norway, on September 15, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

The reindeer — bred by the indigenous Sami reindeer herders that span northern Europe — are semi-nomadic and travel across vast expanses as they move between their winter and summer grazing grounds.

A herd of several hundred reindeer walk along the steep rocky mountain-side along the coastline in Jokelfjord, on route to their winter pastures in Northern Norway, on September 14, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

To make their journey home, the reindeer bypass two glaciers before arriving at the foot of the Jokelfjord glacier — the only one in Europe which drains into the ocean.

The Sami follow their animals on quad bikes, on foot, or by boat.

Sami herder Ante Niillas Gaup lassoes a young reindeer to put a identification mark on his ear, in Reinfjord, in Northern Norway, on September 15, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

Ante Niillas Gaup, a 37-year-old Sami herder, whistles towards the herd to show them the path to take. But the herder, accompanied by his barking dogs, says mostly they are driven by their instinct to follow the right route.

“If they don’t want to walk, they don’t walk — they do it little by little as they want, when they decide,” said Gaup.

A Sami woman feeds her son while watching their herd of reindeer, in Reinfjord, in Northern Norway, on September 15, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

When they reach obstacles such as a steep wall or crossing a fjord, the reindeer stop and wait for a signal from the herders.

A Sami herder in a small motorboat in the middle of the fjord rings a bell to show them the way to the opposite bank.

A large herd of reindeer circle as they are temporarily placed inside an enclosure to be marked and identified by their Sami herders, on route to their winter pastures, near Reinfjord in Northern Norway, on September 14, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

When they are ready to swim, the reindeer form themselves into a single file, preparing to dive in.

Hundreds of the animals then launch into the water, grunting as they head for the other shore in a synchronised swim.

Several hundred reindeer swim across Jokelfjord, on route to their winter pastures in Northern Norway, on September 14, 2023. (Photo by Olivier MORIN / AFP)

Once they reach land again, they are on the final leg of their journey to Kautokeino, where they will spend the winter.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

NORWEGIAN TRADITIONS

What foreigners in Norway find confusing about May 17th 

Constitution Day, or May 17th, is a fantastic occasion in Norway. Foreigners living in the country also love getting in on the celebrations – but a few things about the day can be confusing. 

What foreigners in Norway find confusing about May 17th 

Often referred to as Norway’s national day, May 17th is much beloved in Norway. The parades and festivities are a must-see (and also pretty hard to miss) for anyone in Norway on the day. 

There are plenty of traditions that can seem strange from the outside looking in, including bunads, parades, singing the national anthem, and waving flags. Even after you’ve experienced them a few times, they can still feel puzzling. 

How to celebrate 

One aspect that can confuse foreigners, even those with a few May 17ths under the belt, is how exactly the date should be celebrated. 

While the parades are an obvious starting point, traditions can vary across families, cities and regions. 

Many will start May 17th with a combination of a typical Norwegian breakfast, with or without champagne, and then go to watch the parades. 

After that, things become more unclear. Some choose to celebrate the rest of the day with family, grilling or playing garden games. 

Others choose to party hard, whether at parties, bars, or special May 17th events. 

Meanwhile, some cities have large gatherings after the parades, torch processions, or fireworks in the evening. 

Our tip would be to choose what you like most about May 17th and go with the flow. 

Thankfully, as long as you don’t do something stupid like desecrate the Norwegian flag or spend the day antagonising people, there doesn’t appear to be a “right or wrong” way to celebrate the occasion. 

What to wear 

Outfit choice can be tricky on May 17th. People normally dress their best, be it in a traditional bunad, a suit, or other smart clothes. 

For foreigners, this can be tough. For starters, most probably do not feel Norwegian enough to wear a bunad but want to dress nicely for the occasion as a show of respect. 

Therefore, finding something that makes you feel comfortable, doesn’t feel underdressed, and is also appropriate for whatever the weather is can be a tricky balance. 

Some people wear folk costumes from where they are from, which for the most part goes down well as very few Norwegians hold an attitude of “this is our day and not yours”.

What other people are wearing

This is perhaps more the case for newcomers to Norway, but seeing a bunad for the first time can be strange. Seeing thousands of people decked out in “national costumes” (as they are sometimes referred to) can be overwhelming. 

Given that the costumes date back centuries, seeing the old mixed with the modern can also be surreal—for example, seeing someone in a bunad whizz by on an e-scooter. 

Even as you become more accustomed to seeing national costumes and learning more about them, you could confuse yourself trying to work out the origin of the bunad given the designs, colours and embroidery unique to different regions of Norway. 

The national pride

As the day marks the signing of the Norwegian constitution, it’s no surprise that its themes centre on national pride and identity and feature plenty of flag waving and singing of the national anthem. 

This can be puzzling for foreigners, as in some places, patriotism and national pride have been hijacked by populist and far-right movements and used as a tool to cause division.

Other foreigners may also be critical of the idea of a monarchy and how heavily they feature in the day’s proceedings. 

However, in Norway, no one really questions these things. This is just as well because, for the most part, May 17th demonstrates how you can celebrate a country’s essence without hijacking it for the wrong reasons. 

The locals in Norway generally choose to include those who also wish to celebrate May 17th rather than exclude them. 

It’s the fact that Norway is able to maintain a strong sense of national pride on May 17th while remaining inclusive that some may find confusing. 

SHOW COMMENTS