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FOOD AND DRINK

Sturm: Why you should try Austria’s traditional autumn drink

Wine harvesting season is underway in Austria, and that means the time window is open to try the sweet and semi-fermented alcoholic drink called Sturm. The Local spoke to a wine expert to find out more about Sturm season.

Stylianos Stavridis, founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna enjoys a drink of Sturm at the Kahlenberg hill.
Stylianos Stavridis, founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna enjoys a drink of Sturm at the Kahlenberg hill. Photo courtesy of Stylianos Stavridis

Austrians enjoy eating seasonally and opting for locally sourced produce. 

So perhaps it’s no surprise that their drinking habits follow a similar pattern. When the new wine harvesting season rolls around in September, it is customary to drink a beverage made from the first grapes harvested.

Sturm comes in both red and white varieties and is usually enjoyed with traditional meaty and carb-heavy Austrian meals. The season, which for locals usually signals the start of autumn, lasts until around mid-October. 

We asked Stylianos Stavridis, founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna to tell us more about Sturm, where you can find it and what it means to Austrian culture.

The Local: How would you describe Sturm?

Stylianos Stavridis: Partially fermented grape must (the juice from the squeezed grapes), known as “Sturm” in Austria or “Federweißer” in Germany, is allowed in Austria when exclusively made from locally harvested and processed grapes.

It can be introduced to the market between August 1st and December 31st of the respective vintage year, as long as it’s in a state of fermentation. Fermentation may be temporarily halted during production and resumed before release. Sturm (which is German for storm) gets its name from its cloudy, still-fermenting nature.

READ ALSO: Five things you will find in (almost) every Austrian home

What would you say to someone trying it for the first time?

Since Sturm is still in the process of fermentation, meaning that the yeast is still converting sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide, it is relatively sweet, tart (acidic) and effervescent. This makes it a bit ‘dangerous’ for someone who is drinking it for the first time.

It almost feels like grape juice, but you need to keep in mind that there is alcohol and yeast which in higher quantities can cause headaches and tummy problems. It is also important to keep in mind that, due to rapid fermentation, it could cause the bottle to explode if corked. Sturm also cannot be stored and must be consumed within a few days, otherwise it might spoil due to the presence of yeast.   

Stylianos Stavridis, founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna, talks about Sturm season.

Stylianos Stavridis, founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna, talks about Sturm season. Photo courtesy of Stylianos Stavridis

Where are the best kind of places to find Sturm in Austria? Is it usually in bars or do you have to look further afield?

In Austria, Sturm is served in a variety of places, from bars to restaurants and Heuriger (traditional taverns). Heuriger are Austrian-style restaurants, usually family-owned wineries with attached eateries that serve wine made on-site. In Vienna’s 19th district, Döbling, you’ll find many Heuriger during Sturm season. 

READ ALSO: The Austrian eating habits the world could learn from

What do your guests think about Sturm when they try it?

Most of my guests find Sturm very refreshing and they are surprised at how sweet and simultaneously acidic it is. 

How important is Sturm to Austrian food and drink culture?

In September and October, Austrians often enjoy Sturm together with the arrival of fall and the beginning of the harvest season. Also, instead of “Prost” (cheers), people say “Mahlzeit” (enjoy your meal) before drinking, since Sturm is not yet considered a finished wine. 

How did you get into the Austrian wine business?

I’m originally from Athens, Greece, and I’ve been living in Austria since 2012. I initially moved here to pursue my Master’s degree at the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences (BOKU). During my first year, I worked part-time at a cosy wine bar in Vienna’s 1st district, where I fell in love with Austrian wines.

Between 2013 and 2017, I was employed by a company specialising in organising wine tours throughout Austria. Simultaneously, I embarked on my wine education journey at the Austrian Wine Academy. In 2018, I joined a winery in Carnuntum, and at the start of 2019, I took the bold step of launching my own business, offering wine tastings in Vienna, particularly tailored for international guests.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Did Austria really invent France’s iconic croissant?

It's often said that Austria in fact invented the croissant - and some even claim that Marie Antoinette brought it to France - but the real story is a little more complicated than that.

Did Austria really invent France's iconic croissant?

The croissant is probably the food product most closely associated with France (tied with the baguette) but is it even French? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

The French croissant is usually credited to a couple of Austrian migrants – August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who opened a bakery in Paris in the 1830s. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to have popularised the kipferl in France.

Listen to the team from The Local discussing croissants in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast. Listen here or on the link below

The kipferl shows up in records in Austria at least as early as the 13th century, so it definitely pre-dates the croissant.

In the 1800s the French went crazy for Austrian pastries, which is why we talk about viennoiseries (referencing Austrian capital Vienna) to refer to breakfast pastries such as croissants, pain au chocolat and pain au raisin.

But is a kipferl a croissant? The original recipe called for the roll to be made of bread, not pastry, and modern recipes call for a light yeast dough, often scented with vanilla.

Delicious, undoubtedly, but a croissaint . . .

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy created a recipe using puff pastry instead.

His instructions specified that the croissant be made of rolled puff pastry, laminated with butter to create layers – and this is how modern day croissants are made.

The pastry layers are what creates the distinctive crumb-scattering deliciousness that is a croissant.

So did the Austrians invent the croissant or did they just invent a curved bread roll? Or should France and Austria share the credit and chalk this one up to another great success from international cooperation?

One thing that is certainly French is the name – croissant in French simply means ‘crescent’ and refers to the shape of the breakfast pastry.

It’s used in other contexts too – for example Le Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge – is how the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is referred to in French.

And Marie Antoinette?

This historical rumour is almost certainly rubbish.

Although Marie Antoinette was indeed Austrian, the first record of the croissant does not appear in Paris until at least 40 years after her death and the two Austrian bakers credited with introducing the croissant weren’t even born when she met her end on the guillotine in 1793.

Also, she never said ‘let them eat cake’.

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