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TRANSPORT

The train routes connecting Italy to the rest of Europe in 2023

Here are some of the main direct international train services you can use for travel between Italy and other European countries this year.

A train from Limone in Italy pulls into the station in Tende, France on December 31, 2021.
A train from Limone in Italy pulls into the station in Tende, France on December 31, 2021. Photo by Piero CRUCIATTI / AFP.

A number of airlines have recently announced new routes to and from Italy – but given the dramatic effect climate change is already having on Europe’s weather patterns, many people are looking to less carbon-heavy alternatives for their summer holiday plans this year.

With this in mind, we’ve put together a (non-exhaustive) primer that covers the major direct train routes from Italy to adjoining France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia, as well as to Germany.

If you are considering taking any of these routes, Show Me The Journey provides a very detailed guide to international train travel from Italy that lays out exactly what services are available when.

Without further ado, here’s where you can travel in Europe by direct train from Italy in 2023:

Night trains from major cities

From Rome or Florence, you can travel direct to Villach, Salzburg, Vienna or Munich via the Nightjet network, run by Austrian operator ÖBB. This night train is currently the only direct international rail service to and from these two major Italian cities.

You can also go direct to Vienna or Munich from any of Bologna, Milan, Venice, Genoa, La Spezia, Verona, Ancona, and a few other smaller Italian towns and cities along the route, via the same service. 

READ ALSO: Yes, train travel across Europe is far better than flying – even with kids

The route from Venice, stopping at Vicenza and Udine, can take you deeper into Germany – all the way to Stuttgart – via Munich.

Nightjet's train routes.
Nightjet’s train routes. Source: ÖBB/Nightjet

France:

There are multiple daily trains from Milan to Paris via Turin, leaving either from Milano Centrale or Milano Porta Garibaldi station, depending on which operator you go with. You can also travel direct from Milan to Lyon via Turin.

From the Italian border town of Ventimiglia, you can travel to Nice, Cannes and Grasse via Menton, Monte Carlo and Antibes. There are multiple daily express trains to Ventimiglia from Milan and regional trains from Genoa.

Austria (and Germany):

Travellers can take a EuroCity train from Bologna that goes through Verona, Trento, Bolzano, Brennero (as the final Italy stop) and on to Innsbruck and Munich. There’s also one EuroCity train a day from Venice to these destinations Mon-Fri, stopping at Padua and Vicenza, and two on weekends.

There are twice-daily Railjet trains from Venice to Vienna via Villach, stopping at other Italian and Austrian towns along the route.

READ ALSO: Five easy day trips to make from Rome by train

A daily train service from Bolzano takes passengers to Vienna via Innsbruck, Salzburg and Linz.

There are also hourly S-Bahn trains to Innsbruck from Brennero, and regular trains from Fortezza to Lienz.

A picture taken on June 8, 2018 shows the train station at the Brenner Pass (Brennerpass), the mountain pass through the Alps between Austria and Italy.

A picture taken on June 8, 2018 shows the train station at the Brenner Pass (Brennerpass), the mountain pass through the Alps between Austria and Italy. Photo by Christof STACHE / AFP.

Switzerland (and Germany):

A large number of EuroCity trains leave every day from Milan to Lugano and Zurich, stopping at Como and several Swiss towns and cities.

One of these trains to Zurich each day starts in Venice, stopping at Padua, Vicenza, and Verona, among other towns; one starts in Genoa; and one in Bologna.

There’s also a twice-daily EuroCity service that goes from Milan to Basel via Como, Lusern and Lugano, and regular regional train services from Milan to Locarno via Como and Lugano.

A daily train service from the Milan central train station ferries passengers all the way to Frankfurt, stopping at Bern, Basel, and various other Italian, Swiss and German towns and cities along the way.

READ ALSO: Six delightful day trips within easy reach of Milan

If your destination is more westerly, there are multiple daily trains from Milan to Geneva via Domodossola, Brig and Lausanne, one of which starts in Venice.

There are also multiple daily services from Milan to Basel via Domodossola, Brig and Bern.

Finally, the Rhaetian Railway network connects Tirano to St Moritz, with a large number of trains departing every day; while the Bernina Express connects Tirano to Chur.

Slovenia:

A daily EuroCity train service from Trieste goes to Ljubljana, Maribor and Graz before moving on to Vienna.

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BREXIT

Are Italy’s British residents still getting their passports stamped?

UK residents of Italy protected under the Withdrawal Agreement reported having their passports wrongly stamped at border checks following Brexit. Has that issue now been cleared up, or are some Brits still experiencing issues?

Are Italy's British residents still getting their passports stamped?

In the months after the Brexit Withdrawal Agreement was finalised, many UK citizens in Italy with permanent Italian residency reported having their passports wrongly stamped on leaving and entering Italy.

Italy is one of a handful of “declaratory” countries in the EU where getting a post-Brexit residency card was optional, rather than compulsory, though UK authorities advised obtaining the card as “evidence of your rights”.

The lack of clarity caused widespread confusion, with many Italian officials wrongly insisting that the carta di soggiorno elettronica was the only valid proof of pre-Brexit Italian residency.

Meanwhile, many travellers initially reported that border officials in Italy were not clear on the purpose of the card and had stamped their passports regardless – leading to concerns about erroneous stamps causing problems on future trips.

The issue appears to have been largely resolved for British citizens who finally gave in and applied for the document, with most cardholders saying they no longer have issues with their passports being stamped at the country’s major airports.

READ ALSO: What’s the deal with passport stamping in Italy?

However, some UK nationals resident in Italy say they’re still wrongly having their passports stamped at smaller airports in Italy, especially when travelling alongside large groups of British holidaymakers.

And others report routinely having their passport stamped when entering the Schengen zone via a different EU member state to that of Italy – for example, when travelling by car from the UK via France.

UK national David Prince commented in response to a recent article on passport stamping that a border official had stamped his passport on arriving in Calais, despite his presenting an Italian residency permit.

“When I asked why he simply said “Article 50,” Prince said, “which I knew was rubbish but I couldn’t be bothered to argue.”

According to European Commission rules in place since 2022, Schengen border agents have been told that they shouldn’t stamp the passports of anyone with a valid EU residence permit – but there’s no EU law stopping them from doing so.

Even if your passport is stamped, it doesn’t carry any official weight.

“The Commission recommends – notably as regards beneficiaries of the Withdrawal Agreement – that Member State border guards refrain from stamping,” the rules say.

“In any case, should stamping nevertheless take place, such stamp cannot affect the length of the authorised long-term stay.”

READ ALSO: Can I use my Italian carta d’identità for travel?

If you arrive at any Schengen border, it’s advisable to hand over your passport already opened to the photo page, with your residency card on top, and say that you’re resident in Italy.

If you’re at an Italian border checkpoint, you might want to say ‘sono residente in Italia’ – I’m an Italian resident – and be prepared to answer questions about your reasons for being in Italy.

One additional source of confusion for some residents has been the difference between a carta d’identità and a carta di soggiorno.

The carta di soggiorno elettronica is the post-Brexit residency card which proves your status as a legal resident in Italy, wheres a carta d’identità is simply your Italian ID card.

The ID card is valid for ten years, but that doesn’t automatically give you the right to stay in Italy for all that time. Some non-EU citizens on certain visas might have a ten-year ID card, but a one-year Italian residency permit.

For that reason, your Italian ID card isn’t considered proof of your right to be in the country; as a British citizen resident in Italy and covered under the Withdrawal Agreement, you’ll need to show your carta di soggiorno elettronica to a border agent to stand the best chance of avoiding having your passport stamped.

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