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FOOD AND DRINK

REVEALED: Spain’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurants

Discover where in Spain you can treat yourself to a gourmet Michelin-starred meal without breaking the bank - for under €45 per person.

REVEALED: Spain’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurants
Dine at Adrián Quetglas in Palma de Mallorca. Photo: Adrián Quetglas / Facebook

Spain with its varied and delicious cuisine has many Michelin-starred restaurants dotted throughout the country. The city of San Sebastián is king with more Michelin Stars per square kilometre than anywhere else in Europe and second in the world. Only Kyoto in Japan has more than this Basque city. 

While there are of course many famous Michelin-starred restaurants that are very expensive, where many of us may only go once in a lifetime, Spain is lucky that it has several very affordable ones – and some of the cheapest in Europe.

However, in order to get the more affordable prices, you need to know what to order and when to go. The trick is to go at lunchtime to make the most of the menus of the day, to order a la carte or opt for a shorter and less expensive version of the tasting menu.

Catalonia

Xerta, Barcelona
Barcelona is full of expensive restaurants, but even here you can try exquisite Michelin-starred cuisine for €45. Located in the luxurious Ohla Hotel, Xerta has both a restaurant and tapas bar. To pay just €45, go for the Menú Ejecutivo, a three-course option with wine and mini sweets included. The a la carte menu is also very affordable such as the arroz de barraca – rice from the Delta del Ebro with clams, nettles, beef and green sauce emulsion. 

Madrid

Chirón, Valdemoro
This restaurant located in the municipality of Valdemorillo is the only place in the region of Madrid where you can dine on Michelin-starred quality food for less than €30 per person. To take advantage of this price you should order the six-course executive menu, which is only served at lunchtime from Tuesday to Friday and costs €29.95. Madrileño chef Iván Muñoz has one Michelin-Star and serves up innovative dishes such as crispy socarrat rice, flavoured with clams and aioli (garlic mayonnaise). 

At Chirón you can dine for €29.95. Photo: Chirón / Facebook

Galicia

Silabario, Vigo
This Galician restaurant headed up by local chef Alberto González centres around traditional Gallego seafood fresh from the Atlantic Ocean. There are three tasting menus offered, one of which, the Berbés is a very affordable €27 per person. This includes a starter, main course and a dessert.

Order the Berbés menu at Silabario in Vigo. Photo: Silabario / Facebook

Castilla-La Mancha

Coto de Quevedo, Torre de Juan de Abad
Chef José Antonio Medina’s traditional Manchego restaurant at the rural Coto de Quevedo hotel has been awarded two Michelin Stars and serves classic dishes with a modern twist. While the tasting menus are over €45, you can order from the main menu for much less. Try the deer loin, cauliflower, chocolate, plum and liquorice cake for €20 or the classic pisto de Manchego (similar to ratatouille) with Iberian potatoes and egg. 

Try modern Manchego-style cuisine at Coto de Quevedo. Photo: Coto de Quevedo / Facebook

Valencia

Atalaya, Alcalá de Xivert

Located in a small village on Spain’s Costa de Azahar or Orange Blossom Coast, just above Valencia, Atalaya is run by a couple – Alejandra Herrador and Emanuel Carlucci. They serve classic Valencian and Mediterranean cuisine where unsurprisingly, rice features heavily. To eat for €45 per person, choose the Menú Arroz (Rice Menu), an impressive seven-course menu with appetisers, mains and desserts.

Try the Rice Menu at Atalaya in the region of Valencia. Photo: Atalaya / Facebook

Castilla y León

MU.NA, Ponferrada
This Ponferrada restaurant offers typical Leonese cuisine with seasonal ingredients. Open Wednesday to Sunday, it has two different tasting menus, but by ordering dishes from the main menu such as the deer with truffle and leek or the sea bass, you can eat for under €30 per person.

You can eat for under €30 at MU.NA. Photo: MU.NA / Facebook

Basque Country

Garena Jatetxea, Lamindao
The Basque Country is the undisputed queen of Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain and many of them are very famous and expensive, but at Garena, you can dine for just €45. Chef Julen Baz sticks to creative Basque cuisine with fresh and simple ingredients. Choose the Menú de Mercado with six courses, only offered Mondays to Fridays.

Sample Basque cuisine at Garena. Photo: Garena / Facebook

Balearic Islands

Adrián Quetglas, Palma de Mallorca
Named after its Argentinean chef, Adrián Quetglas, this Michelin-starred restaurant is located on the island of Mallorca. Its dishes are presented like works of art and are just as colourful as the island itself. The tasting menu costs €45 and consists of five courses including dishes such as Carnaroli rice with rockfish, saffron, prawns and honeycomb. It’s only available at lunchtime from Tuesday to Friday.

Dine at Adrián Quetglas in Palma de Mallorca. Photo: Adrián Quetglas / Facebook

Extremadura 

Versátil, Zarza de Granadilla

Run by three brothers David, Jose and Alejandro Hernandez Talaván, this Extremaduran Michelin-starred restaurant has two different dining zones. Choose the bodega area and you can get a main meal for €20 – €25 per person. Think charcoal roasted octopus with rustic mashed potatoes, citrus, chive aioli, rice chips and paprika foam or stewed pork cheeks glazed in the oven with creamy potatoes and black truffle. 

Choose the bodega area for a cheaper Michelin-Starred meal. Photo: Versátil / Facebook

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DISCOVER SPAIN

A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

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