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Why is everyone in France talking about Mont d’Or cheese today?

Mont d’Or cheese is a French treasure you can only find at a specific time of the year. But why's that?

Why is everyone in France talking about Mont d’Or cheese today?
A Mont d'Or cheese. Photo: AFP

Today is the day!

September 10th marks the beginning of the sale of the famous Mont d’Or cheese in France.

This rich cheese with a rich history borrows its name from the highest point of the Doubs département (located in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in Eastern France) and goes way back since it was already mentioned in the 1280 Encyclopédie des Fromages (the Cheese Encyclopeadia).  

 

You can also find it under the name Vacherin, but rather in Switzerland than in its original region.

Though it is much loved, the Mont d’Or cheese is also much awaited as it can only be savoured from September 10th to May. Here’s why.

A seasonal cheese

The Mont d’Or was first created after peasants looked to create a smaller cheese with their “winter milk”, as the production was reduced during the coldest months. A raw milk that, according to the Fromagerie La Ferté, gives it a “texture that offers a soft and creamy consistency without being too runny”.

It can only be produced from August 15th to March 31st, hence why its appearances in dairies are seasonal.

Consequently, it became a winter cheese and could not be produced in the summer since it can’t handle hot temperatures. During spring and summer, where milk is more abundant, Comté cheese is made. 

READ ALSO: This is how much the French are obsessed with cheese

Specific production process

But other than being unobtainable during the sunny months, its making process also follows a list of specifications since it has both the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée and the Appelation d’Origine Protégée.

These designations attest to the authenticity of the product and of the savoir-faire of its producers while protecting its name not only in France but in the entire European Union.

The Mont d’Or can then only be produced in a designated area of 95 Haut-Doubs municipalities – all at least 700 metres above sea level – and made at of raw milk from grass-fed Montbeliarde or French Simmental herds.

A woman cutting the spruce straps that circle the Mont d'Or cheese. Photo: AFP

The cheese is also supported by a circle of spruce wood to provide it from running. After at least a 12-day maturing (during which the cheese is scrubbed daily with salted water), the Mont d’Or terminates its ripening process in a slightly smaller spruce box that gives it its wrinkled crust as a nod to the mountain it took its name from.

But these many specificities do not prevent producers from delivering (on average) 5,500 tonnes of Mont d’Or each year.

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CHEESE

Coronavirus in Switzerland: Is it still OK to have a cheese fondue?

As colder weather is approaching, Swiss health experts are answering a very pertinent question: is it safe to eat the cheese fondue during the pandemic? Seriously.

Coronavirus in Switzerland: Is it still OK to have a cheese fondue?
Whether in the water or on land, fondue is safe to eat. Photo by AFP


Though it may seem like a cheesy concern, it is easy to see why some people may be weary of dipping their forks and pieces of bread into a communal pot.

But experts say this practice is perfectly safe.

“A risk associated with fondue? Certainly not”, Didier Pittet, the head of the infection prevention and control service at Geneva University Hospitals (HUG), said in an interview. 

That’s because cheese in a fondue is melted at about 80 degrees, destroying pathogenic germs.

This pertains to the co-called ‘half-and-half fondue’, which usually contains Vacherin, Gruyère and white wine, as well as to the Valais version where raclette cheese is added.

READ MORE: Switzerland begins criminal investigation against cheesemaker over multiple deaths 


But what about the vacherin fondue, which is eaten warm and for which the temperature should not exceed 50 degrees?

Yup, that is safe too.

“The fondue is hot and the virus does not survive in it,” said Yann Hulmann, spokesperson for the Federal Office of Public Health (FOPH).

“Furthermore, the virus is not transmitted through the digestive tract, ” he added.

Hulmann pointed out, however, that while the fondue is safe to eat, the risk lies in how people gather around the pot.

“As soon as we decide to share a fondue, we should not sit less than 1.5 metres from the other guests”, he said.

“From this point of view, if someone is contagious, the risk of others being infected is high”, he added.

Philippe Bardet, the director of the Cheese Professionals Association of the Gruyère region, told 24 Heures that while eating a cheese fondue, everyone keeps their own forks. 

However, this is not the case with the Chinese fondue, where forks are left in the pot while the meat is cooking, so there is a chance of taking someone else’s fork by mistake.

Generally speaking, however, there’s no evidence to date that food is a likely source or route of transmission of the virus.


 

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