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Why Malmö’s Möllevången is a paradise for curious foodies

With at least 60 different restaurants serving food from more than a dozen countries, Möllevången is a great place for food adventurers. Here's a selection reviewed by The Local.

Why Malmö's Möllevången is a paradise for curious foodies
The food market at Möllevången, but there's also an impressive range of restaurants nearby. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT
Möllevången, the 50-hectare trapezoid that functions as an alternative city centre in Malmö is a great place for culinary adventurers, with at least 60 different restaurants serving food from more than a dozen different countries. 
 
For this concentration, you can thank the designers of the city's 1960s and 1970s housing developments, who left little or no space for local shops or restaurants. 
 
So while in London, you can go to a Turkish area for doner kebab, a Bengali one for curries, or a Jamaican one for Akee and Saltfish, in Malmö a lot of it is in one place. 
 
Restaurang Nowroz, a Persian restaurant, opened back in 2003, and is now one of three restaurants serving Iranian specialities such as khoresh stew or kebab. Here's our review of its upstart rival Restaurang Tehran.
 
Most people come to Restaurang Tehran for the kebab. Photo: Richard Orange
 
Of the dozen or so falafel restaurants, Jalla Jalla is a piece of Malmö legend, with extra halloumi, aubergine or fried cauliflower a particular speciality. 
 
But my current favourite falafel joint in Möllevången is Sara, which wraps the chickpea balls in meltingly soft bread they bake themselves in their pizza oven. 
 
Many of the 15 or so Indian restaurants are in reality cheap bars so the food is nothing to write home about. 
 
The South Indian is a notable exception (see our review here), as is Masala Box in the Mitt i Möllan shopping centre (see review here). 
 
Masala Box sells a lot of vegan naan and dahl. Photo: Masala Box
 
The South Indian specializes in masala dosa, here served with sambar soup and coconut chutney. Photo: Richard Orange
 
Indians in Malmö also praise Kontrast, which opened recently on Möllevången Square, and Shubab on Amiralsgatan, which does good South Indian foods. 
 
Pappas Buffé on Bergsgatan may look like a cheap Italian, but in fact mainly caters to young Afghans who have arrived in Malmö over the last few years. Better quality (and more expensive) Afghan food is available at Ariana (our review here), which serves delicious manto dumplings from the country's north. 
 
The ashak dumplings come garnished with dried mint and fresh coriander. Photo: Richard Orange
 
Asien on Ystadsvägen serves authentic Vietnamese food, but Little Vietnam in Mitt i Möllan probably has a more convivial atmosphere.
 
Shamiat restaurant on Södra Förstadsgatan sells great Syrian foul and fatteh (our review). But you can also get a more upmarket take on Middle Eastern food at the more established Restaurang Madina on Bergsgatan, which specializes in Lebanese specialities, and charcoal grilled fish.
 
Issam Al-Halabi puts the finishing touches to his foul with olive oil. Photo: Richard Orange
 
If you get tired of falafel and shawarma, you can go get decent Greek Gyros at Gyrospita on Bergsgatan, garnished with a smear of thick yoghurt. 
 
You can now get excellent Balkan Burek pies in the café next to the Ica grocery store opposite Mitt i Möllan. If you're lucky you can watch the two Serbian men who make them throwing their pastry high in the air to stretch it before slamming it onto their tables. 
 
But if you are willing to step just outside the boundaries of Möllevången, Burek House has a broader selection of Balkan specialities (see our review). 
 
Tawë is burned to a crisp on the top but tasty. Photo: Richard Orange
 
For African food, you have to leave Möllevången and make your way to Persborg, where Marka Caday makes a selection of Somali favourites (see our review here). 
 
A hearty plate of Anjero Habesha, or Injera Ethiopian-style, at the Marka Cadey Restaurant. Photo: Richard Orange
 
What's your favourite restaurant in Malmö? Scroll down to the comments section to share your top tips!

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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