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THE LOCAL RECIPES

BREAD

How to make homely Swedish flatbread from Hönö island

These Swedish flatbreads from western Sweden are especially popular among children, who love their light texture.

How to make homely Swedish flatbread from Hönö island
Flatbread from 'Hönö' island. Photo: John Duxbury

Hönö is a small island off the west coast of Sweden, a short ferry ride from Gothenburg. It is a little bit off the tourist beat, but it has a popular marina, a pleasant church and a nature reserve. Its main claim to fame are these delightful flatbreads.

Summary

Makes: 6

Preparation: 30 minutes

Cooking: 30 minutes

Total: 60 minutes plus 1-2 hours rising time

Ingredients

500 ml milk

50 g butter

500 g strong white flour

150 g rye flour

½ tsp sea salt (Swedes would normally use at least 1 tsp)

½ tsp hjorthornssalt (if you can't find this, use 1tsp of baking powder instead)

10 g instant 'easy bake' dried yeast

2 ½ tbsp golden (light) syrup

Method

1. Heat the butter and milk together in a saucepan until all the butter has melted. Allow to cool to below 45C.

2. Add the flours to the bowl. Then add the salt, yeast and hjorthornssalt in three different places. You don't want the salt to come into immediate contact with the yeast as it can kill the yeast.

3. Gradually add the milk mixture and the syrup. Mix until the dough begins to leave the sides but is still a little bit sticky. Add some extra flour if it seems too sticky. Knead the dough for about five minutes until it is smooth and shiny.

4. Cover the bowl with a cloth or a shower cap and leave somewhere warm to double in size (this may take anything from 30 minutes to a couple of hours).

5. Turn it on to a floured work surface and knead it until it has a nice flexible consistency. Divide the mixture into six round balls and flatten into 15cm rounds, cover them with a cloth and leave them to rise again for 30 minutes.

6. Preheat the oven to 250C, or higher if you can, with a metal tray or pizza stone in the top of the oven.

7. Take one of the flatbreads and roll it out very thin using a knobbly rolling pin (the Swedes call it a 'kruskavel'). If you haven't got a 'kruskavel' use a fork.

8. Slide it quickly on to the metal sheet or pizza stone and bake for three to five minutes until nicely coloured. When baked, turn on to a wire rack and cover with a cloth.

9. Repeat steps seven and eight with the remaining flatbreads. When the bread is cool it can be cut into wedges or frozen in whole rounds.

Tips

– The flatbreads are at their nicest when still warm. They go brilliantly with so many things: butter, tangy cheese, jam, honey or pickled herring.

– These freeze well so it is not worth making a half-batch

This recipe by Karin Fürst is provided courtesy of food writer John Duxbury, editor and founder of Swedish Food.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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