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Paella: Six reasons you have probably been doing it wrong

Have you been eating truly authentic paella? It's harder to come by than you might think.

Paella: Six reasons you have probably been doing it wrong
Photo: Jan Harenburg / Wikimedia Commons.

The self-proclaimed online “paella police”, Wikipaella, presented on Monday their latest list of restaurants that meet their strict paella authenticity standards.

While it's common to see eateries around the country boasting to serve “real” versions of the Valencian rice dish, Wikipaella likes to remind everyone that the “cultural heritage” of the meal is actually often lost in adaptations that artificially colour the rice yellow rather than using the traditional saffron.

This year Wikipaella awarded 262 restaurants with their stamp of approval for serving up authentic paella that respects the tradition. Most, of course are in Valencia province (133), while Alicante has 77, Castellón 33 and 11 in Madrid.

Wikipaella even named one restaurant in the United States and one in Germany as demonstrating “the international character of our most popular dish”.

So how do you know if you've been duped by paella? The Local looks at some of the easiest ways to tell that your paella is subpar.

1. It has extra ingredients

According to Wikipaella, there are three types of paella – paella Valenciana, arroz a banda (or senyoret) and paella with rabbit and snails (paella de conejo y caracoles).

Each have slightly different variations in their ingredients, but the main traditional ingredients are the same: rice, extra virgin olive oil, saffron and tomato. 

Arroz a banda has seafood, which includes cuttlefish, shrimp and angler fish as the most frequently used ingredients. Less common is squid or mussels.

Paella Valenciana has chicken, rabbit and often snails or duck. Pork ribs and meatballs are not used as frequently but still get the OK from Wikipaella.

The site recognizes that there are always regional and seasonal differences among recipes, such as adding artichokes, but there are definite no-nos. If your paella has carrots, mushrooms or chorizo, you are being duped.

Wikipaella intends to honour places that stay true to tradition rather than experimentation.

2. It is not cooked over a fire in a wide shallow pan


Photo: Jan Harenburg / Wikimedia Commons.

Unless you see somewhere on site that a large, wide, shallow pan is being heated over a fire with the ingredients inside, you're not getting the real deal.

The word “paella” actually is used in Valencia to describe the special steel pan for cooking the dish. The traditional preparation involves cooking the rice, vegetables and meat together over a heat source like hot coals, though Wikipaella gives special awards to those who use firewood. 

Just 48 of the 262 restaurants this year were distinguished for doing so.

3. It is served in an individual portion


Photo: STR/AFP. 

The recipes recommended by Wikipaella are all for large batches, serving four people. The site says that true paella should be able to be eaten “directly from the pan with a wooden spoon”, implying a sharing culture.

So this isn't meant to be a solitary meal – be skeptical if a restaurant seems to just be serving up individually prepared plates rather than steaming hot pans. That single dollop is probably not fresh.

4. You have it for dinner


People eat paella in Ibiza. Photo: Jaime Reina/AFP.

As previously mentioned, Valencia as the birthplace of the famous rice dish has the vast majority of traditional restaurants. But arroz a banda can be found in restaurants across Spain, especially touristy coastal areas.

A full list of the eateries deemed top-quality can be found on Wikipaella's website here.

But don't forget that paella is served in the afternoon during lunchtime – it shouldn't be a dinner menu item. Locals know better.

5. It is not fresh

Photo: Philippe Desmazes/AFP.

The ingredients for paella are supposed to be fresh and Wikipaella likes to highlight the places that pluck their own vegetables right from the garden.

So, no – those frozen dinner versions found in supermarkets should not be able to call themselves paella. Don't even bother.

6. It isn't made by someone who “carries paella in their hearts”


Photo: Cesar Rangel/AFP.

In order to get the thumbs-up from the Wikipaella deciders, the chefs must commit to its mission and promise to “carry paella in our hearts, and travel with it as far as we can”.

So that's the main question to ask yourself: Does this restaurant really care about the centuries-old tradition of paella? Or are they just trying to get tourists and non-natives in the door? 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain’s Asturias?

The green northern region’s drink of choice is cider but it’s the method waiters have of pouring it from a great height that catches the attention of ‘out-ciders’.

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain's Asturias?

They say Asturian blood is 50 percent water and 50 percent cider, and given the 40 million bottles produced every year in the region, it doesn’t seem too hard to believe.

However, it’s the method of serving cider in Asturias which really captures the imagination. 

The bottle will either come attached to a contraption which sucks up the cider and splurts it into a wide but thin-rimmed glass.

Or the waiter will come out every few minutes to grab your bottle and glass, lift the former high up with one arm and the latter down low around waist height before pouring some of the cider into the glass from at an arm’s length. 

There’s even a verb for this action – escanciar – to decant.  

The objective is for the cider to be shaken and aerated so that its natural carbon dioxide ‘awakens’.

When it is poured from above and hits the glass, carbon dioxide bubbles are produced that make the aroma of the cider come alive.

It’s good and normal for there to be splashback when pouring Asturian cider, but the aim is still to get most of it in the glass. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

These bubbles go away quickly so once served, the customer should quickly drink the culín (small bottom) up in one swig. 

The action of escanciar imitates how cider would be traditionally served when it went directly from big oak barrels to the glass, as cider has been the drink of choice in Asturians since before Roman times. 

READ ALSO: Why Spaniards’ habit of drinking alcohol every day is surprisingly healthy

This is after all natural cider which doesn’t come with the sugar, additives and pre-carbonated mixes of brands such as Strongbow, Magners or Kopparberg.

“It took me some time to get the hang of pouring cider, I missed the mark a lot, and my arm used to get very tired at first,” a Latin American waitress at a bar in Gijón told The Local Spain. 

Many sidrerías (cider houses) and restaurants have cylindrical tubes on wheels where escanciadores (the waiters in charge of pouring cider) can put the glass in to avoid making a mess on the floor or splashing customers, as there is always some splatter even if they don’t completely miss the mark. 

A waiter pours cider for customers at a cider bar in the northern Spanish city of Oviedo (Photo by RAFA RIVAS / AFP)

The more old-school chigres (cider house in Asturian) prefer to have sawdust all over the floor to absorb the spilt cider.

To pour, tirar (throw) or escanciar (decant) cider like an Asturian, you should tilt the bottle slowly from above and aim for the cider to hit the top part of the inside side of the glass, which has to be held at a 45-degree angle. It’s this that brings out the effervescence out in la sidra natural.  

So when you visit the beautiful region of Asturias and you tuck into their famously ample servings of fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew) or cachopo (meat, cheese and ham all together in breadcrumbs), washed down with one or two bottles of sidra, now you’ll understand what’s behind this eye-catching tradition.

READ ALSO: Eight fascinating facts about Spain’s Asturias region

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