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OLIVES

The latest must-have item for rich Europeans? Olive trees from Spain

A growing number of wealthy Germans are paying tens of thousands of euros to move olive trees from their sunny habitats in southern Spain to cold northern climes.

The latest must-have item for rich Europeans? Olive trees from Spain
Photo: Thomas Kienzle/AFP

With their gnarled, thick trunks, most of the centuries-old olive trees imported from Spain are past their fruit-producing prime.

Rather, the sculpture-like trees are sought for their aesthetic value and the Mediterranean touch that they can add to German gardens, better known for their geraniums, berry shrubs and gnomes.

Some are even prepared to pay as much as €20,000 ($22,000) for a very old olive tree.

“I no longer need to get on a plane, I can stay at home and enjoy my olive trees. It's better for the environment,” said Karl Heinz Maier, who owns two such trees in Willsbach, a village north of Stuttgart.

One of them, aged 400 years, stands proudly at the entrance of his villa.

The second plant, at a relatively young age of 120 years, has found its place in the exotic garden of banana, lime and orange trees.

Olive trees are a synonym for longevity in some countries, as it is not uncommon for them to live for over a millennium.

But they are defeated by the cold.

“It can't stand anything below -15” degrees Celsius (5 degrees Fahrenheit), said Olivier Nasles, president of Afidol, France's olive industry association.

'Pampered like a baby' 

To help them survive the sub-zero German winters, they are wrapped in a thick plastic and fibre mattress, and heated with a spiral-shaped apparatus, said Torsten Jablonski, who sold the trees to Maier.

Jablonski said that as a result of the anti-frost strategy, none of the 800 olive trees he had brought to Germany had died from the cold.

Every year, the German businessman imports hundreds of olive trees from Andalusia, Spain which he then sells on to often wealthy clients from Germany, the Netherlands, Austria and Switzerland.

Prices depend on the age and circumference of the tree, with one 400-year-old with a trunk of 150-175 centimetres (60-70 inches) in the catalogue for €1,499.

“These are extremely robust trees that do not fear transport,” said Jablonski.

But Nasles said having to take such extreme measures to ensure that the trees stay alive over winter is problematic in itself.

“It's a bit like if you told me 'I'm going to move my grandmother to 3,000 kilometres (1,900 miles) from her home'. Your grandmother will not be able to stand this move,” he said.

Nasles went as far as to call it a “scam”, saying there are “some crafty people who make money out of this.”

But Jablonski shrugged off the criticism, saying the trees are well cared for.

“For some of my clients, it's a real sacred object” that they pamper like a baby, he said.

And to illustrate how close to the heart the trees can get, Jablonski recounted the example of a customer who was separating from his wife.

When she walked out, “she left with the heater in the middle of winter,” said Jablonski.

By Yannick Pasquet

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain’s Asturias?

The green northern region’s drink of choice is cider but it’s the method waiters have of pouring it from a great height that catches the attention of ‘out-ciders’.

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain's Asturias?

They say Asturian blood is 50 percent water and 50 percent cider, and given the 40 million bottles produced every year in the region, it doesn’t seem too hard to believe.

However, it’s the method of serving cider in Asturias which really captures the imagination. 

The bottle will either come attached to a contraption which sucks up the cider and splurts it into a wide but thin-rimmed glass.

Or the waiter will come out every few minutes to grab your bottle and glass, lift the former high up with one arm and the latter down low around waist height before pouring some of the cider into the glass from at an arm’s length. 

There’s even a verb for this action – escanciar – to decant.  

The objective is for the cider to be shaken and aerated so that its natural carbon dioxide ‘awakens’.

When it is poured from above and hits the glass, carbon dioxide bubbles are produced that make the aroma of the cider come alive.

It’s good and normal for there to be splashback when pouring Asturian cider, but the aim is still to get most of it in the glass. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

These bubbles go away quickly so once served, the customer should quickly drink the culín (small bottom) up in one swig. 

The action of escanciar imitates how cider would be traditionally served when it went directly from big oak barrels to the glass, as cider has been the drink of choice in Asturians since before Roman times. 

READ ALSO: Why Spaniards’ habit of drinking alcohol every day is surprisingly healthy

This is after all natural cider which doesn’t come with the sugar, additives and pre-carbonated mixes of brands such as Strongbow, Magners or Kopparberg.

“It took me some time to get the hang of pouring cider, I missed the mark a lot, and my arm used to get very tired at first,” a Latin American waitress at a bar in Gijón told The Local Spain. 

Many sidrerías (cider houses) and restaurants have cylindrical tubes on wheels where escanciadores (the waiters in charge of pouring cider) can put the glass in to avoid making a mess on the floor or splashing customers, as there is always some splatter even if they don’t completely miss the mark. 

A waiter pours cider for customers at a cider bar in the northern Spanish city of Oviedo (Photo by RAFA RIVAS / AFP)

The more old-school chigres (cider house in Asturian) prefer to have sawdust all over the floor to absorb the spilt cider.

To pour, tirar (throw) or escanciar (decant) cider like an Asturian, you should tilt the bottle slowly from above and aim for the cider to hit the top part of the inside side of the glass, which has to be held at a 45-degree angle. It’s this that brings out the effervescence out in la sidra natural.  

So when you visit the beautiful region of Asturias and you tuck into their famously ample servings of fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew) or cachopo (meat, cheese and ham all together in breadcrumbs), washed down with one or two bottles of sidra, now you’ll understand what’s behind this eye-catching tradition.

READ ALSO: Eight fascinating facts about Spain’s Asturias region

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