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MILAN FASHION WEEK

FASHION

Armani looks back to the future

Giorgio Armani had three important things to say on Monday: yes, he can do colours other than grey and beige, no, he is going nowhere and no, he has not had a nose job.

Armani looks back to the future
Giorgio Armani spoke at the presentation of his new spring / summer collection and book. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace

The first point was made by his Spring-Summer 2016 womenswear collection, an unexpectedly colourful affair suffused by various hues of red (flame, lacquer and geranium, since you ask).


Photo: Tiziana Fabi/AFP

The second and third were made by Armani himself at the launch of a self-penned book about his extraordinary life and career, told largely through a total of 410 pictures, many of them previously unpublished snaps from his private archive.

Among them is one of him as a baby – looking remarkably similar to how he does today, at the age of 81.
   
Asked why he had chosen that image for the cover, the designer replied: “Yes, there was a reason for that: the nose.”

“Many have said, quite impertinently, that Armani had a nose job and that it made him look younger. Well, that nose you see there is the same as this one.”

'He'll never retire'

Armani also found impertinent a question about where he imagined his multi-billion-euro empire being in 30 to 40 years.

That did not however stop him answering in terms which suggest that, while he has begun planning for what happens after he has gone, retirement is not on his immediate agenda.

“In any case I won't be there,” he said, admitting that, without him at the helm, it might be difficult for his company to remain the independent, private structure it is now.

“Independence is a beautiful thing. You can choose everything from the light you have in your office to the kind of fashion you make.

“But independence also means having the means to preserve your independence. As long as I am alive, I think, independence will be there.”

After, immediately after, perhaps we will prepare the ground for a more modified, more controlled independence.
   
“But it will depend on what fashion is at that time and the position we find ourselves in.”

Asked if he could imagine anyone replacing his as the guiding creative force at the company, he joked: “My ego would say of course nobody would ever work like Armani,” before conceding: “There are talents about.”

He doubts however that anyone could come in and run the company from top to bottom as he has done for the last 40 years.

“Things have changed so much. A new designer must be creative and supported by a commercial organisation. Otherwise it is too tough.”

Veteran fashion commentator Suzy Menkes, who worked with Armani on the book and is a long-time friend, suggested he would keep working for as long as he physically could.

“It is no good asking him when he is going to retire. He is never going to retire. He is just going to go on until the end. Good for him.”

Sophisticated sensuality

Armani's latest collection reflected much that was seen elsewhere at the latest Milan fashion week, which concluded Monday.

The master of understatement made much use of on-trend overlapping, sometimes transparent, layers to create what he termed an “ethereal silhouette”.

But it was still unmistakably Armani.

Where his Milanese rivals have used diaphanous materials to expose midriffs, breasts and upper thighs, Armani deployed them to offer glimpses of yet more sublime fabric underneath. Or he used embroidered lines, bands and motifs to ensure modesty was preserved.


Photo: Tiziana Fabi/AFP

Bare backs and shoulders recurred, often under over-sized brimmed and wavy hats while wedge sandals accentuated the new tone Armani characterized in his collection notes as a “silent revolution” and a statement about a new “strong and powerful” femininity.

“Sensuality is here,” the notes said. “But never in a way that is unsophisticated.”

The overall feel was best summed up by a grey skirt suit worn with what resembled the most delicate of transparent red petticoats – worn under the collar-less jacket and over the skirt.

“Giorgio Armani” by Giorgio Armani is published by Rizzoli New York with all royalties being donated to UNICEF.

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FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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