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Spain ends confusion over ham quality rules

Spain's government is hoping to protect the global reputation of its prized cured ham, the exquisite ruby-red "jamon iberico", with simpler labels and tighter quality controls.

Published: 13 January 2014 10:28 CET
Spain ends confusion over ham quality rules
The best pigs used for making 'jamon iberico' are fed exclusively on acorns over the winter, a diet that gives the fat a unique, sweet flavour. Photo: Bruno Sanchez-Andrade Nuño

Among the most sought-after hams in the world, the best quality Spanish cured ham is made from a pig of the purebred, black-hoofed indigenous 'iberico' race, which has been fattened on acorns as it wanders the meadows.

Once slaughtered, cured, and expertly sliced into nearly transparent slices, it is at the apex of international cuisine.

SEE ALSO: The Local's Guide to Spain's weirdest food

"Jamon iberico is a star produce of Spanish gastronomy. It is the flagship," Agriculture Minister Miguel Arias Cañete told a news conference.

But the rules were "enormously confused", leaving consumers in Spain and abroad puzzled about what they were buying, he said after a meeting of ministers approved the reform.

Under the new rules, labels must tell shoppers if the product came from a pig that was 100 percent iberico or of a lesser percentage, depending solely on verified breeding records.

The number of categories of jamon iberico was sliced from four to three: "bellota (acorn)" for a pig fattened on acorns in open fields; "cebo de campo" (field feed) for a pig fattened in open fields on natural grazing and fodder; and "cebo (feed)" for a pig raised in a feeding pen.

The best pigs are fed exclusively on acorns over the winter, a diet that gives the fat a unique, sweet flavour.

Cured ham made from Iberian black pigs can cost over 100 euros ($130) per kilo and as much as 4,000 euros for a whole leg of ham that has been slowly cured for over seven years.

The new reform introduces a colour-coded system for labels: black for 100-percent iberico pigs raised on acorns; red for mixed race iberico pigs fattened on acorns; green for those raised in the open on other feeds; and white for those fattened in a feeding pen.

Among the new quality controls, legs of iberico cured ham below a certain weight were barred for sale, checks on the period of time a ham is cured were tightened and minimum space requirements were set for live pigs raised in fields or feeding pens.

Due to Spain's economic downturn farmers reduced their herds of iberico race pigs from four million three years ago to just two and a half million in 2013.

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COOKING

Eat like a Bavarian: How to cook a five course meal of southern goodness

Beer gardens and restaurants Bavaria (and the rest of the Bundesrepublik) may be closed for sit-in dining, but here's how you can cook traditional comfort food to enjoy in your own home.

Published: 18 March 2021 17:00 CET
Updated: 19 March 2021 11:08 CET
Eat like a Bavarian: How to cook a five course meal of southern goodness
A traditional Bavarian-style 'Brotzeitplatte'. Photo: DPA

Recreate Biergarten comfort

If you live in Bavaria, or have ever spent a holiday there, you know the drill: a sunny day = time to go to der Biergarten.

One of the many things that make Biergarten just so fun is die Brotzeitplatte, a big plate of typically Bavarian appetizers, like Obazder and thinly sliced Emmentaler cheese. Usually shared with friends or family, and accompanied by a cool Bier (beer) or Radler (beer with lemonade).

Good news is: Preparing a plate like that is quite easy and you don’t even need to turn on the oven. Just go to the market of you choice and get some: 

  • Thinly-sliced Emmentaler cheese, topped with some ground black pepper. 
  • Pickled cucumbers 
  • Some thinly-sliced ham. The best option is to buy Wacholderschinken from your local butcher. (Trust me, it’s so much tastier than normal supermarket ham)
  • Some nice Wurst (sausage), like Leberwurst (liver sausage) or Blutwurst (black pudding)
  • Thinly sliced Radi (white reddish), traditionally sliced in a spiral form with a special peeler. If you don’t own one, don’t worry, thin slices will do. 
  • Brezen (Pretzels) — because it wouldn’t be Bavarian without them 
  • Obazder, store-bought or homemade, whichever you prefer. If you would like to make some yourself, here’s a quick and proven recipe: 100g Camembert, 100g Brie, 100g cream cheese, 25g butter, a small diced onion, red pepper powder, a sip of beer, cut parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Mix everything well and take out of the fridge 30 minutes before mealtime!
Typically Bavarian ‘Brezen’ at a bakery in Munich. Photo: DPA

Nothing like a good soup

A hearty good Brühe (broth) used to be the pride of every Bavarian housewife (or house-husband). Usually boiled for hours and made from fresh meat, bones and vegetables, broth has become a convenience product. (Think little cubes of dried broth!)

Thankfully, today most bigger stores like REWE also sell liquid broth in glasses or cans. It is much more hearty than the dried version, and even German grandparents would probably approve. 

So to make a delicious Bavarian Hochzeitssuppe (“wedding soup“, but actually a soup for all occasions) you only need:

  • A big glass of broth (preferably vegetable or beef)
  • Griessnockerl: Ready-made ones are available at bigger supermarkets, but making them yourself if actually pretty easy. You just need one egg, 20g butter, 60g Gries (semolina), finely cut chives, muscat and pepper to taste. Beat the butter until it becomes yellow and fluffy, mix in the egg and beat again until the mixture gets foamy. Then stir in semolina and spices and leave to rest for about one hour. Then, with the help of two spoons, create little oval dumplings and directly slip them into the simmering broth. 
  • Dried pancake strips: Yes, you read that right. Leftover pancakes from your last brunch? Just place them in the oven on a big plate, let them dry until they’re crunchy and store in an airtight container. Whenever you feel like Flädlesuppe (broth with pancake strips) just heat some broth and throw them in. 
  • Some finely diced veggies to taste, like carrots or parsnips
  • Chives and parsley as a topping

Heat everything together and done!

A veggie-friendly allrounder: Käsespätzle (Cheesy pasta)

This dish really is an all time classic, not just in Bavaria, but also in Baden-Württemberg, Austria and even in the Alsace in France.

It is very easy to make, especially if you just buy your Spätzle. One might think that the combination of pasta and cheese really can’t be that special, but wait! The secret is in the cheese!

        Traditional Käsespätzle. Photo: DPA

Choosing the right mix of cheese for Käsespätzle is crucial. Depending on region, the recipe might vary a bit, but the general secret is: a mix of mild (preferably Emmentaler) and savory (preferably Bergkäse) cheese. And: lots of fried onions and parsley to top it with. 

The recipe is incredibly easy: Heat some oil and butter, throw in your cut onions, stir-fry and set aside. If you like it crunchy, sprinkle them with some flour before frying. Then, put the Spätzle in the same pan, heat and stir well. Then add your cheese mix, and again, stir well until the cheese has melted. Top it of with your onions and some fresh cut parsley and you’re ready to go!

READ ALSO: The 10 heartiest German dishes to get you through winter

There’s nothing like a heavenly creamy dessert

A bit lesser known than Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancakes), but a creamy piece of heaven: Bayrisch Creme (Bavarian cream).

This recipe is a bit longer, but still easy. 

 
 
 
 
 
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All you need is: 

  • 2 vanilla beans
  • 300 ml full fat milk
  • 1 teaspoon (or as advised on packaging) Agar-Agar (a vegetarian replacement for gelatin) 
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 100 g powdered sugar
  • 250 ml cream 

Cut open your vanilla beans, scratch out all that black goodness and put it in the milk. Heat the mixture until it begins to boil. Then, pull the pot off the plate. Get a second pot, put in your egg yolks and sift in your powdered sugar. Then get a third pot (sorry, but it really is worth it!), and heat some water.

Place the second pot in the third pot, but don’t let any water run into your egg yolk mix. Slowly, under constant stirring, add the milk-mix. Then, take a whisk and beat the mixture until foamy. Take the pot of the plate, and let it cool down. Then beat the liquid cream until it’s stiff and mix it with rest. Put it into the fridge for a couple of hours until the mixture is quite firm. 

Bayrisch Creme is best served with seasonal fruits or fruit sauce.

Late night snack: A Bavarian cheese platter

It’s one of those nights, where you’re just having too much fun around the table to go home. Thankfully, there’s an excellent way to satisfy late night savoury cravings: a Bavarian cheese platter. You need:

  • Any local cheese you like, for example: Emmentaler, Bergkäse, Bavaria Blu, Alpenkräuterkäse, Tilsiter, …
  • Some cream cheese
  • Butter 
  • Blue and white grapes
  • Brezen

Enjoy! Or as the Bavarians say: Guad’n.

By Lisa Schneider

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