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Cost of living crisis: eat well for less in Italy

Italy is one of the culinary centres of Europe. Far more than just spaghetti alla bolognese and pizza, many regions of the Italian peninsula have given rise to famous food traditions persisting for centuries. Could current events inspire new habits in cooking and eating?

Cost of living crisis: eat well for less in Italy
The sharing of food is one of Italian culture's most cherished traditions. Photo: Getty Images

Together with meal kit provider, HelloFresh, we unpack how recent events have made the weekly shop in Italy that much more expensive – and offer helpful advice on saving at the checkout.

HelloFresh saves time and money when cooking meals. Receive fresh, high-quality recipies and ingredients with each meal kit

Rising receipts

Our favourite Italian dishes often have roots in times of adversity, with farmers and other workers using whatever ingredients were at hand to produce a mouth-watering variety of tastes – think of dishes like minestrone (vegetable soup) or brodotto (fish stew). However, the current global cost of living crisis means that even the basic staples of Italian cooking are increasingly expensive.

Italy’s body representing the agricultural industry, Coldiretti, reported in early January that 88 percent of supermarket goods have seen price increases. Specifically, fruit and vegetables have surged in price, due to the costs of transporting them by road and sea. Further Coldiretti research shows that pasta, the very foundation of Italian cuisine, cost Italian consumers €800 million more in 2022 than the previous year.

A combination of factors contributed to this situation. The effects of the coronavirus pandemic continue to impact global supply chains, with petrol and oil prices climbing as a result. The war in Ukraine also fed the rising cost of living, as the country provides over ten percent of the world’s wheat supplies, 15 percent of the corn and a staggering 50 percent of the world’s sunflower oil trade.

This isn’t a situation that will last forever. Already in 2022, there were signs of economic recovery, as logistics chains improved, and alternate markets for grains were sourced. Arancini or Pollo alla cacciatora isn’t going to disappear from Italian life any time soon.

In the meantime, how can you offset these increases at the supermercato and beyond?

Click here to get a discount of up to €65 on your first three HelloFresh boxes

Each week, HelloFresh customers receive everything they need to cook a mouthwatering selection of dishes. Photo: HelloFresh

Cutting costs

Reducing costs on food isn’t nearly as hard as you might think, with an ever-increasing variety of tools at the disposal of the average Italian consumer. With a little forethought, you can keep costs down and have more to spend on life’s pleasures.

Personal budgeting apps such as YNAB (You Need A Budget), Wallet, Mint and EveryDollar can help track spending, providing informative graphs and visualizations of costs. Many will even connect with bank accounts to give daily and weekly breakdowns of activity, so finding out where money is going is easy. Almost all are available on both the App Store and Google Play and will work with most phones and Italian banks.

Another cost-cutting strategy also addresses a serious problem: food waste. Italy is Europe’s most wasteful nation when it comes to food, with costs of over €7 billion per year. Foodsharing is an attempt to counter this, while also addressing the growing issue of food poverty. Apps and websites allow consumers and businesses to list food that they will not be using, either for free or at a vastly reduced cost. Organised foodsharing networks exist across Italy, and a cursory Google search will show hubs to leave and pick up food in every regioni.

Meal kits can also provide a cost-effective solution for those who want to save money on food, while enjoying all the delicious tastes they’re used to. Providers such as HelloFresh use a combination of local Italian producers and technology to shorten logistics chains, passing the savings on to consumers. Each week, customers receive a box including all the ingredients you need to cook nutritious meals from a huge collection of dishes – all by following the simple step-by-step instructions on the recipe card provided.

Consumers can also be sure with meal kit providers that they will only receive what they need to cook a week’s worth of meals, thus reducing food waste. Over time, this can be a significant saving. As well as fish, meat, Italian and exotic dishes, HelloFresh‘s menus include ‘flexitarian’ and ‘calorie smart’ options, meaning people with a wide variety of dietary needs can be sure there’s something to match their tastes and preferences. The service is also flexible, so you can skip the upcoming delivery at no cost if your plans change.

When supermarket shopping, it can be all too easy to be tempted into buying foods you don’t need, or in larger quantities than necessary. Tighter planning, of the sort you can embrace with meal kits, helps you to avoid this and only spend what is necessary. 

Finally, eating out can be a significant drain on the bank balance. With every meal, comes a premium for paying waiting staff and other restaurant expenses – and those costs are increasing. While a morning espresso or a quick cannoli on the way home won’t break the bank, and are some of life’s great pleasures, the cost of sit-down meals can add up quickly. Instead, consider learning to cook a few favourite local dishes and make an occasion of them, inviting friends and family to share – picking up some great cooking tips along the way. 

Il cibo è vita

The rich Italian tradition of cooking has faced far greater challenges than the current cost of living crisis. Indeed, as noted earlier, it was hard times that led to the invention of some of the world’s favourite dishes, as the Italian gift for ingenuity and invention came to the fore. Tasty, hearty dishes were created that not only tasted sensational but were nourishing and proceeded to storm the world!

With a few minor lifestyle changes, and a willingness to try new things, almost everyone can make some significant savings in their weekly shop, and even learn a few new dishes to share with family and friends. In the end, what could be more important than that – as the Italians say, ‘Il cibo è vita‘, or ‘food is life’!

Enjoy HelloFresh’s wide range of convenient meal kits. Save up to €65 on your first three boxes with this link

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CHRISTMAS

The most mouthwatering Christmas cakes from around Italy

You may know your panettone from your pandoro, but what about other seasonal treats? Read on for a tour of Italy's regional Christmas cakes.

The most mouthwatering Christmas cakes from around Italy
Panforte from Siena, just one of Italy's many regional Christmas specialities. Photo: DepositPhotos

In Milan it’s all about the panettone, literally 'pan de toni' or Toni’s bread. Legend has it that Toni was the kitchen hand at the court of Ludovic Sforza, Duke of Milan. He burnt the cakes for dinner so threw together a type of medieval spiced bread and presented it at court. The court loved it and the panettone was born. 


Freshly baked panettone in Milan. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

The origins of the pandoro ('pan d'oro' or golden bread) are, as is often the case, both religious and pagan. Some say its star shape refers to the star that led the Three Kings to Jesus. Others believe it refers to the sun, symbol of fertility. Today’s pandoro owes its height to 19th-century pastry chef Domenico Melegatti, who modified the original medieval recipe so the pandoro would rise better. A much older Veronese cake, the nadalin, is its rustic cousin.

The Christmas sweet leavened breads found across northern Italy often have peasant origins. The cresenzin is a rustic, heavier ancestor of panettone from the valleys of Piedmont. In Valtellina they have the bisciola, another dense cake made with sultanas, nuts and dried figs, while Bologna’s panone (big bread) is a sweet, dark loaf filled with dried fruit and occasionally chocolate.


A Valtellina bisciola. Photo: DepositPhotos

There are many variations of what is essentially the same cake. Go to Brescia and there’s the bossolà, called bussolano in Cremona and bisulan in Mantua. It’s a type of ciambella, or soft round cake with a hole in it. Some say it was brought by the Venetians, others believe it has Celtic origins and its shape reflects the good luck symbol of a twisted snake. 

Go to Turin and their festive cake is the panettone basso, literally a short panettone. It’s covered with a hazelnut glaze – no surprise from an area that’s famous for its hazelnut pralines and nutty chocolate spreads. 


A bossolà from Brescia. Photo: marciespics – CC BY-NC-SA 2.0, Flickr

In Liguria there’s the pandolce genovese, a fruit bread that can be made tall and airy or flat and crumbly. Bice Comparato, 93, from Albenga on the Gulf of Genoa, recalls how “we used to collect grapes from the vegetable garden and dry them, and my mother would use these in the pandolce. We’d also collect figs that we’d dry out on netting and conserve them in fresh fig leaves that we’d sew up. At Christmas you’d open them and inside there was the dried fig.”

The pine nuts that feature in Genovese pesto also feature in its Christmas cake. “The pine nut is the pine nut. It turns up everywhere,” Bice’s daughter, Brunella Parodi, tells me. 


Tuscan ricciarelli biscuits, made with almond and egg white. Photo: Shaw – CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia

In Tuscany, Simona Casucci, 45, from Arezzo, tells me she grew up eating “the traditional sweets such as ricciarelli and cavallucci biscuits”, made with almonds and typically served with dessert wine, or dried fruit. “People still have this nowadays, although obviously you can get anything you want now.” 

Siena has its panforte, a spicy, chewy cake of fruit, nuts and honey. Rome has its pangiallo, an Ancient Roman ancestor, while Ferrara has pampapato, a chocolate-covered version first made by 17th-century monks at the Monastero del Corpus Domini and considered a dessert 'fit for a pope'.


Panforte from Siena. Photo: DepositPhotos

In Puglia, the emphasis is on the biscuits. Giuseppina Maiorano, 85, from Lizzano in the province of Taranto, tells me they’d start making them after the Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8th.

“There were almond biscuits, ones with wine, and ones with oil and pepper are delicious. And we’d make pettole, fried pieces of dough with honey, and purcidduzzi, little balls of dough that were fried and then dipped in honey. We’d start eating at lunchtime on Christmas Eve – usually pasta with baccalà – and carry on until about ten in the evening.

“We used to put all the biscuits out on the table and then we’d eat as we played cards and tombola. Then we’d go to mass and it was a huge party because Jesus had been born.”


Pugliese purcidduzzi. Photo: Matteo AmorinoCC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia

Tina Di Staso, 58, from Foggia, grew up in the small town of Trinitapoli. “Christmas begins the night before the Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8th. There’s always a bonfire near the churches in honour of the Madonna and the older women make frittelle, a bit like panzerotti [fried turnovers], only with flour and yeast.”

How many of Italy's baking traditions survive today? Di Staso says: “My grandmother and mother did more than I do. I work so I make less.” Yet the picture-postcard Italy that so many like to imagine, a tableau of women in aprons cooking together, has a perennial appeal. The reality was often poverty and hardship, but also a sense of community.

“The biscuits were there for anyone who used to come to the house,” Giuseppina tells me. “We’d take things to our neighbours, and they’d bring them to us.”

READ ALSO: The food and drink you need for an Italian Christmas feast


Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP