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MY ITALY - LE MARCHE

FARMING

‘Italian life prioritizes quality over quantity’

When Ashley and Jason Bartner left New York to set up an organic farm and cooking school in rural Le Marche, they didn't speak Italian or know how to grow their own food. Ashley explains how they embraced the change and settled into the local community.

'Italian life prioritizes quality over quantity'
Ashley and Jason Bartner on their organic farm in Le Marche. Photo: Alessandro Moggi

Where in America are you from and when did you move to Le Marche?

I am originally from Seattle and Jason is from Danville (outside of San Francisco). We met at college and then moved to New York, where we lived in Brooklyn for over eight years, before moving to the Italian countryside. In December 2007, a year and a half after our honeymoon and first trip to Italy, we moved into our farmhouse in Le Marche.

What inspired you to move to Italy and set up your own organic farm?

We were inspired by a life of quality versus quantity. We wanted to slow down in life and enjoy each day more, just as the Italians do. And more than anything we wanted to start a farm to become as self-sufficient as possible.

After almost 10 years in New York we were craving dirt and mud, getting our hands in the soil…That being said, we were both from the city and didn't know which way to plant a seed, but we were determined to learn!

Were there any difficulties in setting up your businesses?

Certainly the classic Italian bureaucracy – 'you must have this document before you can sign that one, but to get this one, you need another signed and stamped first'. Plus, we were not fluent in Italian at the time and stumbled through meetings at the bank, issues with the plumber and even ordering bread.

We also discovered how difficult it is to heat a 300-year-old stone farmhouse and keep the pipes from freezing.

Is there anything you wish you'd known about life in Italy before coming here?

No. It was all an adventure and we were ready for the challenge. I just wish my language skills had been stronger!

What is it like living in rural Italy after the busy life of New York?

A culture shock like that of "Northern Exposure" [an American TV series in which a New York physician is sent to practice in a small town in Alaska]. We had no TV or internet, no Chinese delivery or Mexican take-out. But we were open to the change. We knew there would be big differences and embraced them, never comparing this life to that of New York.

Instead of the conveniences of New York, we now live with seasons and love it – chopping wood to stay warm, planting a garden to feed us and interacting with the locals to become part of the community – all things that we never had in New York.

Was it easy to integrate into the community?

Surprisingly it was; we were looked at like orphans, abandoned by our families since we seemed so young to move here (26 years old)!

We did our best to participate in festivals, we delivered fresh baked apple pies to our neighbours and offered free English lessons in town. We were overwhelmed by the warm welcome we received from our village.

Which aspect of Italian life was most difficult to get used to?

The limited hours of operation and observed saint's days/holidays…I had no idea there were so many. I also wish we had planned better in the beginning so we wouldn't run out of food over a three-day holiday for a patron saint of potatoes!

Part of your work is promoting culinary tourism – what are the biggest differences between cooking here and in the States?

First of all, you will eat with the seasons. Most homes here have gardens and you only eat fruits and vegetables at the height of their season, unlike strawberries found year-round at the grocery store in the States. And the food you eat, and recipes found here, are local and I mean super-local.

Even the pasta differs greatly between the sea and mountains from Tuscany to Lombardy. And a huge difference is the pasta is not swimming in sauce and lasagna is delicate enough to make you weep. You can taste the diversity in Italian cooking by traveling 20km in the other direction.

So what's the best food you've had in Italy?

Spaghetti with vongole, cappelleti in brodo, gnocchi with white truffles, slow-cooked pork shank…and anything with fresh tomatoes from the garden!

I have what you call 'una buona forchetta', a hearty appetite, and can't pick just one dish. We live on a farm and run a cooking school, and I'm married to a chef – I eat well.

And aside from the food, why should people visit Le Marche?

The people. They are kind, welcoming and have a rich history they are passionate to share. The hilltop villages are idyllic for an afternoon drive, and you can arrive in time for an aperitivo at sunset.

There is Urbino with the Duke of Montefeltro's Palace and the rugged Appenines in the backdrop, to the East stretch soft hills and winding rivers that lead to the Adriatic Sea.

Le Marche is a place of beauty and still relatively traffic free. It is authentic, it feels unfussy and untouristy. The people speak in local dialect before they speak Italian, and rarely is an English word heard.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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