SHARE
COPY LINK

FOOD AND DRINK

Cinnamon Bun Day: Just another manic bun day

Forget about Swedish springtime's notoriously sweet semla, the delicious wheat bun spiced with cardamom, filled with almond paste and topped with lashings of cream.

Cinnamon Bun Day: Just another manic bun day

Because today is October 4th, which can only mean one thing – it’s National Cinnamon Bun Day.

In springtime, everyone talks about the semla, a delicious wheat bun spiced with cardamom, filled with almond paste and topped with lashings of cream. 

Walk into any bakery or convenience store in Sweden and you will find baskets teeming with cinnamon swirls, or ‘kanelbullar’ as they are called in these parts.

While popular every day of the year, on October 4th the bountiful buns sell like, well, hot cakes.

Somewhat surprisingly, the tradition of National Cinnamon Bun Day isn’t all that old.

In 1999, staff at Sweden’s Hembakningsrådet (‘Home Baking Council’) scratched their collective heads and tried to think of ways to celebrate the organisation’s fortieth anniversary. Perfectly gauging the tastes of a nation, the Council announced the introduction of an annual feast day.

“We found that the cinnamon bun was the best symbol for Swedish home baking. I don’t think there are any Swedes who don’t like them,” project manager Birgit Nilsson Bergström told The Local back in 2007.

The sense of security associated with the buns may also go some way towards explaining their enduring popularity.

“I think we remember them from the time when we were children. Cinnamon buns have been baked at home for the last four or five generations,” she said.

READ ALSO: Five sweet treats you should be able to identify if you live in Sweden

Swedish bakers first began putting their cinnamon buns in the oven at the beginning of the 1920s. But it was not until the 1950s that the popular pastry really made its way into the home.

The bun really knew it had arrived when a recipe was published in early editions of Vår Kokbok (‘Our Cookbook’), a tome considered required reading in the decade of the ideal housewife.

Topped with a sprinkling of cinnamon and nib sugar, the bun initially appeared in many shapes and sizes.

But according to cinnamon bun expert Gunvor Fröberg, formerly of Gothenburg University, most bun-baking women cut out the fancy stuff in the 1960s as they began spending more time in the workplace.

As the years rolled on and time became an ever more precious commodity, the no-nonsense swirl established itself as the cinnamon bun of choice for the masses.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

SHOW COMMENTS