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FRENCH HISTORY

80 years on, Macron leads tribute to victims of Nazi raid on Jewish orphanage

French President Emmanuel Macron on Sunday marks 80 years since Nazi forces raided a Jewish orphanage in the southeast of France and sent almost all its occupants to extermination camps.

French President Emmanuel Macron lays flowers in front of a commemorative plaque near National Assembly's president Yael Braun-Pivet at the Maison d'Izieu memorial, as part of his visit to mark 80 years since Nazi forces raided the then Jewish orphanage
French President Emmanuel Macron lays flowers in front of a commemorative plaque near National Assembly's president Yael Braun-Pivet at the Maison d'Izieu memorial, as part of his visit to mark 80 years since Nazi forces raided the then Jewish orphanage on April 7, 2024. (Photo by MOHAMMED BADRA / POOL / AFP)

The event is among the first of a sequence of ceremonies Macron will lead this year to mark eight decades since the penultimate year of World War II that in the summer of 1944 saw D-Day followed by the liberation of Paris from Nazi occupation.

A handful of former residents of the orphanage in the village of Izieu are due to attend the ceremony headed by Macron late Sunday afternoon.

On April 6, 1944, the 44 Jewish children aged four to 12 then hosted in the orphanage were rounded up by the Gestapo with their seven instructors, also Jewish.

The raid was carried out on the orders of Klaus Barbie, the notorious Nazi known as the “Butcher of Lyon”. Barbie fled to South America after the war but was extradited from Bolivia to France in 1983 and in 1987 was sentenced to life imprisonment on charges of crimes against humanity. He died in prison in 1991.

All the Izieu victims were deported to the death camps of Auschwitz-Birkenau in Poland or Reval in Estonia. Only one instructor survived.

This file photo shows a commemorative plate with the names of the 44 Jewish children and their 7 teachers who were deported on April 6, 1944 by Nazi forces.

This file photo shows a commemorative plate with the names of the 44 Jewish children and their 7 teachers who were deported on April 6, 1944 by Nazi forces. (Photo by Mehdi FEDOUACH / AFP)

Until then it was “a magnificent place”, where the children could be “among friends”, take classes or take a walk as in peacetime, remembered Roger Wolman, 85 years old, who left the orphanage in 1943.

Between May 1943 and April 1944, the Izieu colony, founded by Sabine Zlatin, a Jewish resistance fighter of Polish origin, took in around 100 children whose parents had been deported. Until the raid, it had been left relatively unmolested.

“We went to school, we had a quiet life” even if the adults knew that “it was becoming more and more dangerous”, said Bernard Waysenson, who arrived at the end of the summer of 1943 with his sister and brother. They left at the end of November of the same year to join their family.

‘Survival’

Like him, seven former residents will participate in the commemorations organised by the museum inaugurated 30 years ago.

“The memory I have of the war is above all our survival,” Waysenson told AFP.

The event will see the celebration of “the commitment of those who stood up against Nazism by welcoming the victims of persecution, and of those who opposed the abomination of republican values, by bringing the executioner Klaus Barbie to justice,” the French presidency said.

Macron earlier paid tribute to 106 resistance fighters buried in mountain plateau of Glieres, also in the Alps, which was an important hub for the French resistance against Nazi rule.

From January to March 1944, 465 resistance fighters gathered at Glieres to receive airdrops of weapons in the run-up to the Allied landings in the south of France in August 1944.

But the German army decided to attack in late March of that year. Two thirds of the resistance fighters were taken prisoner and 124 killed during the fighting or shot. Nine disappeared and 16 died in deportation.

“At an altitude of 1,400 meters, France rose up. It lived as it should never have ceased to live, as it should never cease to exist,” Macron said.

Macron emphasised that the battle could not simply be seen as French on one side, fighting Germans on another.

“French people imprisoned French people, French people murdered French people,” he said, referring to the collaborators and describing this as a “French tragedy”.

These years’ commemorations will reach a peak with ceremonies for the 80 years since the Normandy landings of D-Day in June. A host of world leaders are expected to attend, including US President Joe Biden.

In August, the 1944 liberation of Paris from Nazi occupation will be marked.

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CULTURE

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Being lauded as either the greatest artwork in the world or the most overrated tourist attraction in France, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa does not struggle to get attention. But why is this small portrait so famous?

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Paris’ Louvre museum has recently announced that the Mona Lisa painting is to get its own room, a move that is at least partly in reaction to increasing complaints about the artwork being overrated, while tourists struggle to see it in the small, crowded space.

There aren’t many paintings that get a room of their own, so just what is it about Mona Lisa (or La Joconde as she is known in France) that attracts so many millions of tourists each year – and should you bother going to see her?

Why is it in France?

Let’s start with why the painting is in France in the first place, since both painter and subject are Italian (although Italy at that time was still a collection of city states which would not be unified into the modern country until 1861). 

In short, Mona Lisa is in France because her creator Leonardo da Vinci travelled with her, and he was in France when he died in 1519. The reason that he was in France is that he spent the last years of his life working on special commissions for king François I. He died at the Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, in France’s Loire Valley. 

Upon his death Mona Lisa was taken into the French royal collection and various descendants of François I hung her in their palaces until the French Revolution happened in 1793.

After the Revolution, with the exception of a brief stint in Napoleon’s palace, the painting entered the collection of the newly-created Louvre gallery which – in the spirit of revolutionary equality – was opened up to the people so that they too could enjoy great art.

Various requests over the years – some polite, others less so – from Italy to return the painting have been firmly declined by the French state. 

When did it get famous?

In the 18th and 19th centuries Leonardo’s painting was a popular exhibit among museum visitors, but didn’t have any particular fame and wasn’t regarded as any more special than the numerous other artworks exhibited there.

Although some academic interest in the painting’s subject – most commonly thought to be Lisa Gherardini, wife of the Florentine merchant Francesco del Giocondo – stirred in the 19th century, her real fame didn’t arrive until 1911.

This is when the painting was stolen from the Louvre, a crime that became a sensation and a cause celèbre in France, even more so when the painting was finally found in 1913 after the thief had attempted to sell it in Italy.

The fame of the painting and the crime inspired contemporary artists such as Marcel Duchamp who created a playful reproduction of Mona Lisa (complete with beard and moustache) which in turn enhanced the painting’s recognition. The artistic trend continued with everyone from Andy Warhol to the ubiquitous student posters of Mona Lisa smoking a joint.

Former chairman of the French Communist Party Robert Hue views moustachioed Mona Lisa by dadaist painter Marcel Duchamp, lent out by his party for the first time for an exhibition in January 2002. Photo by NICOLAS ASFOURI / AFP

A tour of the painting to the US in 1963 and to Japan in 1974 further enhanced the celebrity status.

21st century

These days it’s perhaps accurate to say that the painting is simply famous because it’s famous. As the best-known piece of art in the world it’s automatically on many tourists’ ‘must see’ list when they come to Paris – and a lot of tourists come to Paris (roughly 44 million per year).

Meanwhile the Louvre is the most-visited museum in the world, attracting roughly 9 million visitors a year.

Although some visitors find the painting itself disappointing (it’s very small, just 77cm by 53cm) the most common complaint is that the room is too crowded – many people report that it’s so jammed with visitors that it’s hard to even see the picture never mind spend time contemplating the artwork.

Should I go and see it?

It really depends on what you like – if your taste in art is firmly in the more modern camp then you probably won’t find that this painting particularly speaks to you. You will, however, find a lot in Paris that is much more to your taste, running from the Musée d’Orsay (mostly art created between 1848 and 1914) to the Pompidou Centre (featuring contemporary and experimental art) and much, much more.

If, however, Renaissance art is your bag then you’ll struggle to find a finer example of it than Mona Lisa, with her beautiful brushwork, detailed and intriguing background and realistic presentation.

If you do decide to visit, then be prepared for the gallery to be crowded – the Louvre now operates on a pre-booking basis but even having a pre-booked ticket won’t save you from the crowds.

If possible try to avoid the summer and school holidays and prioritise weekdays over weekends – the early morning or late evening slots tend to be a little quieter than others, but you’re going to have to be prepared to share her with many other art-lovers.

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