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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Signs of spring in France and the coolest street in Paris

From one of France's favourite warm-weather sports to the start of spring and the coolest street in Paris, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Signs of spring in France and the coolest street in Paris
Trees blossom on a warm weather Spring day below the Eiffel Tower on the Champ-de-Mars park on April 18, 2018 in Paris. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD / AFP)

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

The spring Equinox has now passed: flowers are blooming, temperatures are rising, and the days are finally starting to feel a little longer. 

In my hometown, spring means baseball season, driving down to DC to see the cherry blossoms and maybe spotting some baby deer wandering around with their mothers. In France, however, the start of spring has some very different tell-tale signs.

10 signs spring has arrived in France

Pétanque is perhaps the easiest way to see French people embracing the arrival of spring. As the weather warms up, you’ll see more and more people out and about with their pétanque sets.

The Local’s office sits along the Canal Ourcq in Paris. If you look out the window during the early evening in mid-March or early April, the flat, dusty area next to the water will be teeming with people (both old and young) out for a game of pétanque.

10 things you probably didn’t know about Pétanque

Another important event in France’s cultural calendar takes place every March 20th – International Francophonie Day. It is the one day of the year where people celebrate the French language and Francophone culture.

We’ve put together some figures to show just how global the French language really is, plus how the Francophone world might evolve in the future.

The numbers that tell the story of the French language in 2024

And on the topic of numbers – I am often asked about how much money one needs to live a good life in France. While wages are notably lower than in the United States, but I’ve found that people can achieve a decent quality of life even on a lower salary than they would be used to.

Still – you might be curious to see what is considered ‘wealthy’ by French standards.

How much money do you need to be considered rich in France?

When looking through that information, keep in mind that being ‘wealthy’ can be defined differently if you are looking at Paris versus the countryside. 

There is even a difference in income when looking at central Paris compared with the outer arrondissements.

I live in north-eastern Paris, and while this choice was definitely related to affordability, I really enjoy the off-the-beaten track parts of the city. I was very excited to see the ‘coolest street in Paris’ (according to Time Out magazine) is a bustling road that straddles the 19th and 20th arrondissements.

Discover the ‘coolest street in Paris’

Depending on who you speak with, some people might tell you to stay away from northern Paris out of safety concerns. I’ll kindly disagree with that advice – I think there are some really wonderful things to see in the areas you might otherwise avoid. In reality, crime rates in Paris tend to boil down to pickpocketing, which can be avoided if you keep an eye (and hand) on your belongings.

In general, when it comes to global rankings, France still performs better than both the United States and United Kingdom, but there are some parts of the country that have been recognised as being especially safe and crime-free.

Which towns and cities are the safest in France? 

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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: The long history of the French coastline and growing old in France

From the uncertain future of the Normandy beaches to the secrets of integrating into life in the Pyrenees mountains and growing old in France, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: The long history of the French coastline and growing old in France

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

This year marks the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings. For many Americans, Brits, Canadians, and Australians visiting the Normandy beaches is a vital part of experiencing France. It was a priority for my parents, especially my father who is a US Army veteran, when they visited two years ago.

As the cohort of WWII veterans who were part of the allied invasion of Europe dwindles, it feels more important than ever to hold onto that history. And yet, this is becoming more and more complicated with erosion and rising sea levels that threaten to strip away what remains of the physical history of the Allied invasion of Europe.

Rising sea levels threaten Normandy’s historic D-Day beaches

France’s coastline contains another interesting part of WWII history – hundreds, if not thousands, of now-dilapidated bunkers.

They once were part of the ‘Atlantic wall’, which was Nazi Germany’s effort to protect against Allied invasion of Nazi-occupied Europe. These days, many of them remain in place, either sinking into the sand or serving as squats and hang-out spots for local teenagers.

Why does France still have so many WWII bunkers on its coast?

And if you travel further north along France’s coastline, you’ll come to the English Channel. Earlier this week, we marked the 30th anniversary of the opening of the Channel Tunnel, considered one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. Three decades on, and over one million freight trucks and nearly 10 million passengers pass through the Eurotunnel each year. 

I was fascinated to learn about the initial reactions following the Tunnel’s inauguration: French newspapers heralded a new age – one where ‘Britain is no longer an island’, commentators said it was symbolic of peace in the post-war period, and some in the UK worried about diseased animals hitching a ride from Europe to Britain.

In some ways, the Channel Tunnel has created a more connected Europe, but perhaps it has not lived up to all of those early expectations, particularly in the post-Covid and Brexit years as Eurostar has suffered financial losses.

In Pictures: 30 years ago France and the UK opened the Channel Tunnel

The Pyrenees mountains are on the opposite end of the country, hugging the border between France and Spain. Many people, including foreigners, are drawn to this part of France for its unique culture, gastronomy and landscape. 

Author Stephen Cracknell spoke to residents on both the French and the Spanish side of the mountains about what brought them to the area and why they remain.

‘They treated me like a son’ – The secrets of integrating in a Pyrenees community

Perhaps southern France has a certain appeal due to its comparatively longer life expectancy than other parts of the country (could also be the delicious Tomme des Pyrénées cheese).

Nevertheless, many people do choose France as the country they’d like to grow old in. This might sound logical, considering the fact that by 2030 over 65s are expected to outnumber under 15s.

But is France actually a good country to grow old in? We’ve looked at a few factors that can help us determine how the quality of life really is for older people in France.

Is France a good country to grow old in?

For many people, the decision to retire and grow old in France is ‘simple comme bonjour’ (easy as pie).

If you like that phrase, we’ve got seven great French expressions from this month’s roundup.

8 favourite French Words of the Day

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