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MOVING TO ITALY

‘How we left the UK to open a B&B in a Tuscan village’

Moving to a sleepy Italian village and opening a B&B is the dream for many retirees, but one British-Italian couple did it in their forties. Silvia Marchetti finds out how.

'How we left the UK to open a B&B in a Tuscan village'
The Villa San Michele guesthouse in Vico d’Elsa, Tuscany. Photo: Roger Morris and Stefania Levi.

Roger Morris, 47, and Stefania Levi, 41, escaped from post-Brexit London in 2016 and bought an old stone farmhouse in the tiny Tuscan village of Vico d’Elsa, in Chianti, near the iconic town of San Gimignano.

They swapped their long-time jobs in the corporate security sector for a slower-paced lifestyle, turning the cottage into both their new home and a small guesthouse with just a handful of rooms, called Villa San Michele.

“We wanted a change in our lives and financially we couldn’t have done what we had in mind in the UK, plus with my partner being Italian the weather was an issue,” Morris tells The Local. 

After looking at dozens of properties, they felt confident they could negotiate a good deal.  

“We very quickly learnt that the prices listed by agents in this area were wildly unrealistic, we felt we were able to make our own valuation and that is what we based our offer on the property, which was accepted. We had very clear on our minds that we wanted to create a B&B that we were able to run directly or with minimal external help”, says Morris.

READ ALSO: ‘What we learned from moving to Italy and opening a B&B’

After a nine-month long renovation project, the place had five en-suite rooms, a comfortable lounge area and garden with pool where guests could relax and have aperitivo.

The farmhouse was built in the 1600s and still has plenty of its original features and large gardens, though what particularly appealed to the couple was its location within a small village of barely 400 people. 

“We are at walking distance from a restaurant, a pharmacy, hairdresser and a small grocery store, but at the same time there’s that feeling of being a countryside property: literally a few steps from our gate we can enjoy some amazing walks,” says Stefania. 

The couple moved from London to a village in Chianti, Tuscany. Photo: Roger Morris and Stefania Levi.

Another plus point was the farmhouse’s low energy use and running costs, much lower than those of many other properties in the area, due to having photovoltaic panels and wood-chip heating.  The purchase process was a long one compared to UK standards, says Morris, and on such a big property there are a lot of elements to consider so “getting good professional advice is imperative to navigate the infamous Italian bureaucracy”. 

The couple has a few tips to share with those longing to purchase property in Italy, for example hiring a good commercialista (tax accountant) who’s fluent in English to avoid getting lost in translation, and being on the ground to follow the renovation work. 

READ ALSO: ‘We bought the cheapest house in Piedmont and live mortgage free’

“Building works were pretty intense and dealing with trades not the easiest part,” says Morris.  “It was fundamental that we were actively working on the building site to make sure everything was running smoothly, in a timely manner and according to our budget.”

The couple picked Vico d’Elsa for its location, close to some of Tuscany’s famous sights but at the same time far from the crowds, not within the noisy areas packed with visitors where restaurants are expensive and cost of living is higher by comparison.

“Particularly in the area where we are located, you can still go out and have a great pizza for €8 and half a litre of pretty decent house wine for €6.

“When friends and family visit from the UK or even from other parts of Italy they are always pretty shocked – and we are always shocked at the UK prices when we do go back”, says Morris.

The B&B is open from March to December, meaning Stefania and Roger work seven days a week during that season with practically no staff to help them. 

While winter months are for unwinding, holidays and getting the property ready for the reopening. Maintenance is key. 

READ ALSO: ‘Research and more research’: How do you choose the right part of Italy to move to?

“We repaint the entire inside of the property every year and revarnish all the wood, of which there is plenty, with a view that our guests should feel the property is brand new when we open again each March,” says Stefania. 

In winter the area becomes much calmer but the village is never totally abandoned as local residents live there year-round. 

“Unlike many other villages in our area, here there are no second homes so the community feel is still very much alive”, she says. 

With their previous jobs they didn’t have such seasonality, and their lives were the typical Monday-to-Friday office schedule, and weekends with friends and family. Their holiday and free time were very restricted.

The couple believe that living at the same property they also run as a guesthouse is key to ensuring high-quality, tailored services to guests. Being on the ground ensures better client experiences and makes stays warmer and authentic. 

“We are always available on site whether it is for a chat after a day visiting, for a glass of wine before going out for dinner or for anything our guests may need”, says Morris. 

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AMERICANS IN ITALY

‘Everything shuts down for hours’: Shocks Americans get when they first move to Italy

You might have read up on Italian values and customs before moving here, but not everything is written down. We asked Americans what they found most surprising when they first arrived.

‘Everything shuts down for hours’: Shocks Americans get when they first move to Italy

Americans are often drawn to Italy by its extensive art scene, wealth of food and quality of life. But living in the country can bring surprises for all new residents, including for statiunitesi, who often find things are very different to what they’re used to back home.

We asked Americans on The Local’s Living in Italy Facebook group, you told us mealtimes, paying bills and taking out the trash were amongst the most unexpected hurdles.

Mealtimes were one surprising factor for Kathleen Canape, a Foligno resident by way of New York.

“So lunch is crazy. Everything shuts down, for like three hours. In New York City, we eat at our desk,” she writes. 

She continues: “When I was growing up we ate dinner at 5pm, I usually had dinner at 7pm back in Long Island and that was considered late.

“Now I go to dinner at 9pm.”

Kathleen, who worked in fashion, finance and real estate in Manhattan and Long Island, found life couldn’t be more different when she moved to Foligno two years ago to be with her husband. 

She also found working on a Sunday is a big no-no in Italy, whereas she was used to it back in New York.

MAP: Where do all the Americans live in Italy?

“It’s a five-hour lunch that goes right into dinner.”

She finds it “wild” that some bills you have to pay at the tobacco shop or post office, rather than online. 

“That’s definitely a pain,” she adds.

Debbie Dexter, who lives in Umbria, notes the issues she had with recycling when she first arrived in Italy. 

She says the Umbria region has locked bins and that trash collectors would not pick up certain types of rubbish.

READ ALSO: Ten positives to focus on if you move to Italy from the US

“Out of desperation, I drove around trying to find an unlocked bin when I came across a large white box,” Debbie comments.

“I couldn’t read Italian yet but set about depositing my trash inside, only to learn that it was a collection box for donated clothes and other items. I felt SO bad!”

She relied on the help of her neighbours, who made her a copy of a key for the bins so she could deposit her waste. She was then caught by the collectors and was told  that, because she owned a house, she should have a set of sanctioned bins. In total, it took her a year to get the bin situation sorted. 

Debbie also had an unpleasant surprise when she entered her new home – all of the light sockets and the thermostat had disappeared.

“I already knew Italians tend to take the whole kitchen with them,” Debbie says. “But I didn’t expect to see open wires hanging out of the wall.”

“I had to fix everything. I am still shocked to this day that we did not get electrocuted.”

As a single woman living in Italy, she also says she gets weird looks when dining out alone.

READ ALSO: Ice to AC: Nine of the most common American misconceptions about Italy

“When a single woman walks in looking for a table on a Sunday, you almost get laughed at by the audacity of this request.  So, Sundays I make a nice little lunch for myself, open a bottle of wine and eat out on my terrace,” she adds. 

Manuela Rumsey, a real estate agent from California who lives in Vicenza, had an issue that many foreigners moving to Italy will have experienced:

“When I first arrived, I tried to get a phone number and bank account,” she writes. “The bank told me that I needed a phone number first, and the phone company told me that I needed a bank account first.

“It was over a month before I had both.”

Kathleen did however have a nice surprise when she adopted her dog.

She tells us: “It was completely free. In the States they charge you at least a $200 adoption fee.”

It just goes to show, not all surprises make life harder. 

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