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WHAT CHANGES IN FRANCE

What changes in France in September 2023

From festivals to wine sales, via changes to the pension system, some new laws and a strike, here's what changes next month when France dusts the sand off its shoes and returns to work.

What changes in France in September 2023
Photo by MYCHELE DANIAU / AFP

La rentrée 

Most of France takes a holiday over the summer and cities become noticeably quieter as everyone heads to the beach. The general return to work is known as la rentrée – the return – and happens at the beginning of September. It’s not all post-holiday blues though, you may well be invited to rentrée social events as people enjoying catching up with friends or colleagues and swapping holiday stories.

La rentrée scolaire/politique

Schools also return in September, this year the kids go back on Monday, September 4th so expect to see lots of nervous-looking children with new backpacks around this day.

READ ALSO What to expect if your child is starting school in France

There’s also la rentrée politique when ministers return from holiday and start clogging up newspapers and TV stations with their big ideas for the new political year. The government will present a rentrée programme of ideas in which they lay out their plans for the next 11 months.

There’s also la rentrée litteraire – September and October is traditionally the busiest time of the year for publishers and the ‘big’ books of the year tend to be published at this time, ahead of France’s biggest literary prizes which are awarded in November.

Talking France returns

The Local’s Talking France podcast has also been on its summer break, but it returns on Thursday, September 7th. Find latest episodes plus the entire back catalogue here.

Pension changes

The first half of 2023 was marked with strikes and protests against Emmanuel Macron’s proposed changes to the French pension system. These changes were passed despite the anger and begin to take effect on September 1st.

READ ALSO What changes for French pensions in September

Quitting your job

There are also some changes to how to leave your job. If you’re near retirement age, the pension reform also contains measures aimed at making it easier to do a ‘phased retirement’ where you drop down to part time work and start claiming some of your pension. There’s also a change to the rules on rupture conventionnelle, which will make it harder to claim unemployment benefits if you simply walk out of work without telling anyone in advance.

Rugby World Cup  

France is hosting the 2023 Rugby World Cup, which runs from September 8th to October 28th with nine cities around France hosting the matches. The tournament kicks off on Friday, September 8th at Stade de France with an opening ceremony featuring French actor (and rugby fan) Jean Dujardin, followed by the opening match in which France take on New Zealand.

READ ALSO What you need to know if you’re visiting France for the Rugby World Cup

Strike

Air traffic controllers have called a strike on Friday, September 15th in a dispute over pay. More details here.

RER B closures

For those travelling to or from the Paris Charles de Gaulle airport, beware that there will be possible delays during the month of September due to works. Specifically, the RER B northern line will be closed between Aulney-sous-Bois and Aéroport CDG2 starting at 11pm each weeknight (Mondays to Fridays) from September 18th to 29th. 

There will be a replacement bus available, but expect delays and consider other modes of transportation to get to and from the city to the airport if you plan to travel at nighttime during this period. 

Foire aux vins

Rising temperatures mean that more and more French vineyards are beginning their grape-picking season in August, but the harvest usually continues into September. Linked to this is the annual wine sale in supermarkets and caves known as the foire aux vins. This is essentially a discounting exercise where wine-sellers make room for the new season’s wines by selling off old stock, and it’s a great place to pick up a few special bottles at bargain prices.

READ ALSO How to find bargains on high-quality wine in France

Heritage Days

Saturday, September 16th and Sunday, September 17th, mark the Journée du patrimoine – heritage days – when some of France’s most famous venues (including the president’s Elysée palace) fling open their doors and welcome visitors. Visits are free but for most venues must be booked in advance – a full schedule is usually released a couple of weeks in advance.

Parliament restarts

Although most of the politicians go back to work from the beginning of September, the Assemblée nationale does not resume sitting until the week beginning September 18th. 

Fête de l’humanité

The three-day festival of leftwing culture and ideas, plus music and food, runs from Friday, September 15th to Sunday, September 17th and this year is held in Essonne, accessible from Paris via the RER

Started in 1930, these days the event attracts around 400,000 a year and is the biggest event of its kind in Europe.

Festival du Film Britannique

The British Film Festival of Dinard – arguably the most British of French seaside resorts – is 33 years old this year. It runs from September 27th to October 1st and celebrates the best new release and classic British films.

Mushroom season 

September marks the beginning of mushroom season and foraging is a popular pastime in French forests. If you’re new to the pastime, it’s a good idea to get your mushroom haul checked to make sure they’re all safe to eat – any pharmacy can check them for you.

What you need to know for safe and enjoyable mushroom foraging in France

Collège bursaries

If your child is entering collège (for ages 11 up) in September 2022, you may be eligible for a bursary. This aid can be combined with other aid such as the back-to-school allowance (ARS). Applications begin on September 1st and Service-Public.fr informs you of the steps to take, the amounts and the payment dates for the grant. If you think you are eligible, you can apply here.

Gas prices fall

The government-imposed freeze on gas prices ended in January as global gas prices returned to normal levels after the spike caused by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. France now reverts to its old system of having a monthly fluctuation in prices – for those not signed up to a particular tariff – set by the Commission on energy regulation. September will see a drop in prices, the first since January, of 0.2 centimes per kWh. 

Easier to cancel subscription

From September 1st it will be easier for consumers to cancel subscriptions for media companies, streaming services, sports channels of video gaming platforms. Instead of having to send a letter by registered mail, consumers should be able to cancel online with companies obliged to provide an online method of cancellation. 

On-demand bus stops

The Paris public transport operator RATP will roll out on-demand stops after 10pm, in a move aimed at improving passenger safety especially for women.

The scheme has been trialled in some suburbs since 2018 and allows people to get off between stops when travelling at night. 

Visit from King Charles III

King Charles III will travel to France for a state visit between September 20th and 22nd, Buckingham palace said, visiting both Paris and Bordeaux. It will take place six months after a previously scheduled trip was cancelled because of violent protests.

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WHAT CHANGES IN FRANCE

On the Agenda: What’s happening in France this week

From an important state visit to two public holidays and QR codes for Paris residents, here's what is happening in France this week.

On the Agenda: What's happening in France this week

Monday

Xi Jinping visiting France – China’s President XI Jinping and his wife, Peng Liyuan, will be in France from Monday to Tuesday for a state visit. French President Emmanuel Macron will welcome them in the Hautes-Pyrénées in southern France. The visit is a recognition of the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China.

30th Anniversary of Channel Tunnel – The Channel Tunnel was inaugurated by Queen Elizabeth II and France’s then president François Mitterand on May 6, 1994 – 30 years ago.

Wednesday

Bank holiday for VE Day – Most workers across France will get a day off for Victory in Europe day on May 8th. You can expect the day to involve military parades and remembrance events in towns and cities around France. This year will mark the 79th anniversary of the end of the war.

Olympic torch arrival – The Olympic torch, which already started its journey from Greece, will arrive in Marseille on May 8th before beginning its relay around France. You can see the route here.

Thursday

Bank holiday for Ascension – This year, the Christian festival of Ascension falls on Thursday, May 9th. This means workers in France will enjoy two back-to-back jours fériés (bank holidays).

Friday

QR code for Paris residents – People who live in the area closest to the Seine river in Paris will need to sign up for a QR code to access their homes and neighbourhoods during and shortly before the Opening Ceremony of the Olympic Games. If you plan to host guests, you will also need to register them for security purposes.

You can see the area that will be encompassed within the security zone HERE. As for signing up for the QR code, the website to sign up will be posted by the Paris Police Préfecture in the coming days, and it is set to open on Friday, May 10th.

READ MORE: Which areas will be closed in Paris during the Olympics?

Faire le point – With two public holidays in the middle of the week, many people in France will take advantage of the opportunity to ‘faire le pont’ (make the bridge) by taking off work on Friday.

MotoGP Grand Prix – Fans of motorcycle racing will undoubtedly be excited for the French MotoGP Grand Prix, which will run from Friday May 10th to Sunday May 12th at Le Mans, along the Bugatti circuit. You can find full information for the event here.

Saturday

Eurovision – Saturday marks the finals of the Eurovision song contest, but you can also watch France compete before that. The semi-finals are set for May 7th and May 9th (although France goes straight through to the finals every year as one of the ‘big five’ who fund the contest). France will be represented by the artist Slimane. 

READ MORE: 5 things to know about France’s 2024 Eurovision song

Sunday

Mother’s Day in the US – With UK Mother’s Day having passed and French Mother’s Day not until the end of the month, it is easy for Americans in France to forget that US Mother’s Day falls on the second Sunday of May. Consider this a helpful reminder to make your reservations or send your letter, flowers or gifts ASAP.

Heavy traffic on French roads – Traffic watchdog Bison Futé predicts that return travel will be congested on Sunday, as holidaymakers head home after enjoying the May public holidays. Traffic is expected to be ‘black’ (extremely slow) in the north-west, while the rest of the country has been marked in red for (very slow). You can consult their predictions here.

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