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VENICE

Moving to Italy: How much does it really cost to live in Venice?

Many dream of moving to Venice and enjoying its magical atmosphere as a resident, but the floating city’s reputation isn’t exactly one of affordability. Here’s how much you’ll need to live there.

Houses in Burano, Venice
Property prices, bills, and other costs are above the Italian national average in Venice. So how much will you need to budget if you plan to move here? Photo by Gabriel BOUYS / AFP

Very few cities in the world can match Venice’s spellbinding beauty, which is why many have at least once in their lives considered relocating to the northern city.

But life between the Veneto capital’s grandiose waterside buildings and narrow ‘calli’ (the local name for ‘streets’) comes with a hefty price tag, with one recent study naming Venice among the most expensive Italian cities for overall living costs. 

READ ALSO: Moving to Italy: How much does it really cost to live in Milan?

After all, eye-watering prices are partly responsible for the city’s recent depopulation and Venetians’ mass exodus to cheaper mainland areas.

But if you hope to move there, exactly how much money will you need to live in Venice and what are the biggest expenses for residents?  

Housing

If Venice is often described as a ‘città per nababbi’ (‘a city for tycoons’), it’s mostly because of its high housing costs, which apply to both renters and buyers. 

The average asking price for a property within Venice’s municipality is 3,323 euros per square metre, which, albeit far from the exorbitant prices seen in Portofino (10,891 euros per square metre) or Capri (8,202), is still some 1,434 euros above national average and double the regional average.

READ ALSO: ‘Fighting for survival’: Has Venice become a city no one can live in?

A view of Venice's Rialto bridge

It’s not surprising that many people dream of moving to Venice. But is it affordable? Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP

That said, it’s worth noting that prices can climb as high as 5,365 euros per square metre in the San Marco district, the most central area of the city.

Things aren’t much better for renters: a one-bedroom flat in the city centre will set you back 662 euros a month on average (bills are excluded).

READ ALSO: Reader question: How will Venice’s tourist tax affect second-home owners?

While rent can be as high as 17 euros per square metre on the main island, prices are generally lower in the mainland (Mestre and surroundings) and on the smaller islands (Murano, Lido, Pellestrina, etc.)

That said, it would be nearly impossible to rent a flat for less than 13 euros per square metre.

See which areas of the city are cheaper when it comes to buying or renting a property, you can refer to the following online map

Bills

Utility bills are the second-biggest expense for Venice residents. 

Much like any other Italian region, Veneto has been hit by sharp increases in gas and electricity bills due to the European fuel crisis. According to some estimates, such increases will amount to 10 billion euros by the end of 2022.

Radiator

Utility bills are well above the national average in Venice. Photo by Jean-Christophe VERHAEGEN / AFP

Though bills are naturally dependent upon a household’s individual expenditure, ‘bollette’ (utility bills) are estimated to cost more than average in Venice.

Monthly bills – including gas, electricity and water plus waste collection fees – for an 85-square-metre flat in Venice are estimated to add up to an average of 269 euros.

That’s a whopping 91 euros over Italy’s national average, which currently stands at 178 euros a month.  

Groceries

The price of groceries in Italy has increased dramatically over the past few months, triggered by record levels of inflation.

According to Italian consumer group Codacons, Venice is the eleventh-most expensive Italian city when it comes to grocery shopping as filling a supermarket cart with basic goods is estimated to set residents back 99 euros on average – that’s a 24-euro difference compared to the cheapest city, Naples.

A list of the most cost-efficient supermarkets in Venice can be downloaded here (click on ‘Scarica lo speciale supermercati’).

Eating out 

There is certainly no shortage of bars and restaurants in Venice, though as a resident you might prefer to frequent a ‘bacaro’: a quintessentially Venetian tavern serving local wine and food.

As in most major cities, the size of your bill will largely depend not just on the type of eatery you go for but also on its location, with prices being usually much lower in the less touristy areas of the city.

That said, a three-course meal for two people in a mid-range restaurant will set you back 70 euros on average – around 10 euros above the national average – while a regular meal in an inexpensive restaurant comes at around 15 euros a head.

RANKED: The best (and worst) places to live in Italy in 2022

The table of a cafè in Venice

There is no shortage of bars and restaurants in Venice, though eateries are usually crowded in the most touristy areas. Photo by Andrea PATTARO / AFP

Going out, leisure, entertainment 

While lacking in nightlife, Venice offers residents plenty of things to do during the day, especially on weekends. 

And, though the city might not have as broad an entertainment portfolio as Milan, it still manages to satisfy a good variety of tastes and personalities.

READ ALSO: Nine ways to get into trouble while visiting Venice

On this front, prices are slightly higher than in other major cities across the country but are still accessible for the most part. 

For instance, a regular cinema ticket costs around 12 euros, whereas renting a tennis court for one hour comes at an average price of 21 euros.

Transport

Local transport in Venice is fairly reliable – water buses (‘vaporetti’) run frequently and they’re usually on time. 

That said, services are sometimes disrupted by fog or high tides (‘acqua alta’) during the cold months, whereas vaporetti running on the main lines are often crowded during peak tourist season (late May to early September).

Water bus in Venice

Local transport in Venice is fairly reliable, though services are sometimes disrupted by fog or high tides during the winter. Photo by Laurent EMMANUEL / AFP

Prices are however fairly affordable. A monthly all-inclusive pass (‘rete unica’) with ACTV, the main public transport operator in the city, costs 37 euros, whereas an annual ticket goes for 370 euros.

Generous discounts are available to students and people over 75.

Private taxi services are available too. While being by far the quickest way to get around, water taxis are very expensive, with the cost of a ride ranging from a minimum of 40 euros for a shorter journey up to as much as 250 euros.

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MOVING TO ITALY

Readers recommend: Eight books you must read to understand Italy

After we published our own recommendations of some of the best books to read for those considering a move to Italy, The Local's readers weighed in with suggestions of your own.

Readers recommend: Eight books you must read to understand Italy

In our previous guide to some of the best books to read before moving to Italy, we asked our readers to get in touch with your recommendations.

A number of you responded with your favourite reads about Italy; here’s what you suggested:

Ciao Bella – Six Take Italy

An anonymous reader describes this as “a delightful book about an Australian radio presenter who takes her husband and four children Bologna for a year which turns into two years (one being Covid).”

Kate Langbroek’s comic memoir “had me laughing and crying,” they write.

A Small Place in Italy

An apt choice for those considering their own rural Italian renovation project, Sam Cross recommends this book by British writer Eric Newby about buying, remodelling and moving into a cottage in the Tuscan countryside.

Cross also recommends Newby’s earlier work, ‘Love and War in the Appennines’, about his time as a British prisoner of war captured in Italy by the Germans in WWII.

READ ALSO: Eight of the best books to read before moving to Italy

Here, the author tells of his escape assisted by local partisans, “including a girl, Wanda, who became his future wife. A beautiful story,” says Cross.

The Italians

The Italians is written by veteran Italy correspondent John Hooper, who formerly wrote for the Guardian and is now the Economist’s Italy and Vatican reporter.

From politics to family traditions and the Mafia, the book tackles a range of aspects of Italian history and culture without getting lost in the weeds.

Simone in Rome describes it as “the best single volume on Italian customs and culture there is”.

READ ALSO: Nine things to expect if you move to rural Italy

Venice

It may be more than six decades old, but Jan Morris’s Venice is still considered one of the definitive English-language works on the lagoon city.

Book, Venice, library

A woman reads a book in Venice’s famous Acqua Alta library. Photo by Clay Banks on Unsplash

Though a work of non-fiction, the book has been compared to Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited for its nostalgic, evocative tone.

“A personal view, beautifully written,” recommends reader Mary Austern.

Thin Paths

Described as a mix of travel book and memoir, Thin Paths is written by Julia Blackburn, who moved with her husband into a small house in the hills of Liguria in 1999.

Despite arriving with no Italian, over time she befriended her elderly neighbours, who took her into their confidence and shared stories of the village’s history under the control of a tyrannical landowner and the outbreak of World War II.

“Write it down for us,” they told her, “because otherwise it will all be lost.”

READ ALSO: Six things foreigners should expect if they live in Rome

In Other Words

If you’re currently learning Italian, consider Pulitzer Prize-winning author Jhumpa Lahiri’s In Other Words / In Altre Parole, which discusses the writer’s journey towards mastery of Italian through full immersion.

Reader Brett says, “The book is written in both Italian and English, presented on opposite pages, so it’s also a nice learning tool!”

Lahiri has since written Racconti Romani, or Roman Tales, a series of short stories set in and around Rome riffing off Alberto Moravia’s 1954 short story collection of the same name.

A Rosie Life in Italy

Ginger Hamilton says she would “highly recommend the ‘A Rosie Life in Italy’ series by Rosie Meleady.”

It’s “the delightfully written true story of an Irish couple’s move to Italy, purchase of a home, the process of rehabbing it, and their life near Lago di Trasimeno.”

The Dark Heart of Italy

Reader William describes The Dark Heart of Italy by Tobias Jones as an “excellent” book.

The product of a three-year journey across the Italy, Jones takes on the darker side of Italian culture, from organised crime to excessive bureaucracy.

Though it was published in 2003, Dark Heart stands the test of time: “twenty-odd years old but the essential truth of it hasn’t changed,” William writes.

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