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DISCOVER ITALY

TRAVEL: Why now’s the best time to discover Italy’s secret lakes and mountains

Longing to escape the crowds and heat to experience a different side of Italy this summer? Those who look beyond the usual destinations are richly rewarded, says Silvia Marchetti.

TRAVEL: Why now’s the best time to discover Italy’s secret lakes and mountains
Roccascalegna village in Abruzzo’s wild Apennine mountains. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

As Italian beaches are experiencing a fast post-pandemic revival of tourists longing to swim in clear waters and sunbathe on powder-white sand, there’s a more niche group of international travelers who are opting instead for alternative destinations. And with good reason. 

A recent survey by Milan’s Cattolica University found a 60 percent increase in the number of foreign tourists visiting or planning a holiday at Italian lakes and mountain areas, particularly in under-the-radar locations holding greater allure for those looking for ‘secret’ retreats. 

Talking to several Americans planning a holiday in Italy recently, I realized they were all eager to get away from the usual VIP lakes: Garda, Maggiore and Como, which although stunning, are usually overcrowded, pricey and overly-chic.

They asked for tips on where to go for a stay in pristine natural surroundings to escape from the heat, to bike around tiny lakes, go fishing, and enjoy trekking along solitary mountain trails far from the usual spots.

Beyond the traditional destinations everyone chooses, Italy is packed with stunning lakes and quiet mountain parks unknown even to most Italians, which are eclipsed by the more popular locations. 

READ ALSO: Why visitors to Italy are ditching hotels – and where they’re staying instead

These gorgeous, smaller lakes are ideal in guaranteeing social distancing in the time of Covid, and offer no shortage of fun stuff to do. 

I recently discovered Lago di Tora in the province of Rieti, near Rome, and felt ashamed that I had never seen it before given that it’s a stone’s throw from where I live in the countryside. 

Two picturesque clifftop medieval hamlets of cropped stone dwellings with panoramic balconies overlook a sparkling-green artificial lake built in the 1930s to supply energy to nearby power plants. One single bridge connects the main road to the oldest village, Castel di Tora, where fresh fish is the main delicacy. 

The view is fabulous, and there are beach facilities with dinghies and canoes to rent. Local authorities are boosting sustainable post-pandemic tourism projects with guided fishing boat tours, giant carp fishing competitions (it’s just for sport: the carp are then thrown back into the water), and bike tours along the shores. 

A kilometer away, in the same area, is the Lago del Salto, a windy secret spot for kite surfers and jet-ski lovers who get to run wild on the waves without fear of crashing into sunbathers. 

Other off-the-beaten-path lakes I strongly recommend visiting are the heart-shaped Lago di Scanno in Abruzzo, where there are underwater magnetic fields; the tiny Lago di Martignano in Latium which is a former volcano crater and has dog beaches; and Posta Fibreno lake, an exotic-looking, hidden jewel in the wild Ciociaria area where you can stay at small B&Bs and rent paddle boats.

Lago di Posta Fibreno, Ciociaria. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

I think there’s something cool and ‘counter-current’ in not following the beach fad in summer and instead heading to remote lakes, and in particular to mountain arrss that are crowd-free now that skiing season is over and come with a pure oxygen intake for your lungs.

I strongly recommend heading to Abruzzo’s Apennine mountains, dotted with crumbling panoramic fortresses like Rocca Calascio, ghost hamlets and impressive cliff-hanging castles including the one in the secluded village of Roccascalegna.

Abruzzo national park authorities have boosted guided trekking tours into the wilderness for nature-amateurs, and even organize (safe) bear-watching day trips that allow groups of hikers to admire from a distance the beauty of the ‘orso marsicano’, an endangered, protected species. The unique side of this adventure is you get to do it only in summer, when there’s no risk of getting stuck in ice, snow or blizzards.

READ ALSO: OPINION: Mass tourism is back in Italy – but the way we travel is changing

Rocca Calascio ghost fortress in Abruzzo’s Parco del Gran Sasso. Photo by Silvia Marchetti/The Local

Other awesome mountainous areas are the unknown Apennines at the border of Liguria and Piedmont (yes, one might think those are the Alps), close to Genoa but part of another universe, where time stands still, like in the villages of Fascia and Carrega Ligure. 

In this secluded corner of northern Italy, panoramic mountain trails connect little hamlets where people live in their grandparents’ thick-walled stone cottages and call out ‘ciao’ from their windows. 

There are just a few bars, no social buzz but rewarding views and opportunities for great ‘scampagnate‘: outdoor time with picnics and hikes to isolated mountain huts turned into gourmet taverns serving traditional dishes, such as fried frogs and snails for the daring. 

READ ALSO: Exploring Bologna’s hidden countryside by bike

We need – and I mean us Italians first of all, but also foreigners – to get over the idea that Italy is just islands, bays, gulfs and beaches. The sea is our most precious jewel, but it’s not the only tourist asset. 

There are other ‘uncommon’ destinations in Italy offering diverse experiences, and these should be exploited more. Many foreigners, particularly those who love camping, tend to appreciate lakes and mountains more than coastal locations and long to discover these new landscapes.

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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