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What it’s like travelling to Germany from the USA in the Covid era

From arriving at the airport extra early and navigating various government rules to dealing with Germany's strict Covid measures, here's US-based writer Phil Schaaf's experience and tips for other travellers after visiting Germany from the States.

What it's like travelling to Germany from the USA in the Covid era
A traveller at Frankfurt airport with an American flag. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Sebastian Gollnow

International travel in the Covid era is not a matter of packing a bag, grabbing your passport and heading to the airport; rather, it’s managing a series of evolving airline and government regulations in order to arrive at your destination.

Here’s what it took for this traveller based in Santa Fe to get to Germany twice in 2021, first in early September and then for the Holidays in December 2021, noting any changes over the course of those two trips.

LEAVING THE USA

To board my flights in America, I needed three items: a passport, medical grade or N95/KN95 mask and my CDC issued vaccination card. There was also a third requirement that had to be met within three days of entry into Germany, and that was to register with the German authorities via their “Digital Entry Registration” website.

Based on the status that applies to your country of origin at the time of the submission, the user-friendly website will either have you enter the specific details of your itinerary, or determine that you are not coming from a high-risk area and terminate the session. 

For my trip in September, I had to complete the full registration process, which took about 10 minutes, and then print out a three-page document to present to Border Control upon landing. For traveling in late November, the website said that I was not coming from a high-risk area and did not need to register, ending the session at about three minutes.

Please note that the USA has been deemed a high-risk area as of December 25th, 2021, so completing the registration process is a mandatory step for Americans who currently want to fly to Germany at the moment. Also, you can only register within three days of your landing as that is the date when you enter Germany. 

READ ALSO: What you should know about travel to Germany during the Omicron wave

TWO FINAL RECOMMENDATIONS ON DEPARTURE

First, get to the airport three hours prior to takeoff to avoid any last-minute chaos with respect to documentation, as airline employees have a greater work burden in these pandemic times.

Secondly, wear a N95/K95 mask on the plane. Yes, medical masks are sufficient for flying, but they do not meet current German guidelines and you will have to purchase a qualifying FFP2 model soon after arrival in order to enter businesses. Since N95/K95 masks are considered equivalent to FFP2, you will be fully compliant upon landing if you are wearing one.

LANDING IN GERMANY

The Border/Customs Control experience for both trips was routine; a simple review of my passport and CDC issued vaccination card. Interestingly, the Border Agent did not ask for my Registration for Entry papers that I carried in September. I did, however, give it to him and he looked at it, saw my name on the first page, smiled and handed it back to me.

ON THE GROUND AND IN TOWN, FROM BEST PRACTICES TO 2G

In September, a medical mask, ID, official vaccination card and completing a contact tracing form was all an individual needed to enter an establishment and be seated. That changed for the 2021 winter trip, as “2G,” (Geimpft oder Genesen – vaccinated or recovered), was the rule. 

Put simply, 2G means wearing a FFP2 quality mask, providing ID and showing proof of vaccination (or recovery) to access venues such as bars, restaurants and hotels. Exceptions are in “to go” circumstances. For example, buying a cup of coffee at a cafe to go means wearing the proper mask to enter the establishment. If a customer wants to take a seat and drink it there, he or she has to show ID and proof of vaccination before sitting down at a table.

A waiter wearing a mask.

A waiter wearing a mask. Service providers deserve our endless praise and appreciation, says Phil. Photo courtesy of Phil Schaaf.

On the subway under 3G rules (meaning that unvaccinated people could travel too, but had to have proof of a negative Covid test with them), transportation employees in yellow vests stood on the platforms of some high traffic stations, e.g. Marienplatz, to make sure that people wore masks, but not at the more remote locations. Amazingly, I did not see one person on an U Bahn, S Bahn, Bus or Tram who was not wearing a mask. Sure, some noses weren’t covered, but the level of mask compliance on public transportation in Munich was exceptional. 

To enter a restaurant, signage instructs guests to wait near the entrance in order to show their vaccination status to an employee before being directed to a seat. Locals would present digital proof of vaccination on their Smartphones and I provided my CDC issued card and state issued driver’s license. One might think that the process would produce a bottleneck at the establishment’s entrance, but the wait never took longer than 2-3 minutes, often less.

Once your vaccination status was validated, you wore your mask to the table, then took it off while seated, putting it back on to visit the bathroom and to leave the establishment.

Most hotels have a clear plastic barrier at the front desk and guests need to be FFP2 mask-compliant, provide proof of vaccination and show a personal ID at check-in. Supermarkets, pharmacies, drugstores and many other retail outlets also have plastic shields at their registers and each business requires a qualifying FFP2 mask to enter. Small shops, such as bakeries, would post signs about how many people were allowed indoors at one time and customers uniformly followed the rules, queueing up on sidewalks waiting to enter the store when the maximum number of people were inside, only entering after a person left.

People of all ages did an admirable job of following the recommended best practices, flowing in and out of business establishments without incident. On the handful of occasions where I witnessed someone entering a space with the wrong mask, the merchant would politely inform the person of the need to upgrade their mask in order to enter the store. 

Overall, my perspective to the Covid rules compliance was limited to seven weeks in Munich, but the observed execution of its implementation was impressive. Most important, the regulations did not seem to diminish anyone’s capacity to run their errands and/or share in the Holiday spirit.

MORE ON MASKS, TESTING SITES AND SELF TESTS

Buying quality masks is easy in Germany. They are available at supermarkets, drugstores, convenience stores and general merchandise retail outlets. I even saw a bakery sell an FFP2 mask to a customer who walked in wearing a medical mask. 

The only incongruent aspect of the mask rule is that the model-specific mandate does not apply to the employees of the establishment, whether it be a bakery, restaurant, hotel, coffee shop, bar or supermarket. In other words, employees can wear medical masks – and most do. Don’t let that mislead you into thinking that you as a tourist can do the same.

A shop in Hamburg shows the FFP2 mask requirement.

A shop in Hamburg shows the FFP2 mask requirement. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Georg Wendt

A welcome surprise were the ubiquitous pop-up rapid testing sites and retail store fronts converted into testing outlets. Rapid tests (Schnelltests) were free – yes, free – and no appointment was necessary, though it was possible to make one for some of the locations. The rapid tests were for Munich residents only in September, but open to anyone in December. 

To get a rapid test, all I had to do was wear a mask, sign in with an ID and contact information, get swabbed and then wait 15 minutes for the result. Pharmacies also sell self-testing Covid kits that cost around €5 and are easy to use. I made a point to get tested once a week, either at one of the Schnelltest locations, or via a self-test administered in my hotel room.

As an American not accustomed to this type of public health outreach, it was obvious that the German rapid testing model should be implemented at home and around the globe. Not only is it a great resource in containing and monitoring the pandemic, it is a vital tool in providing peace of mind to individuals and the community at large. 

THE COVID ERA MINDSET

Make no mistake. Covid has negatively impacted Germans and their preferred routines. The famed Christmas Market that normally dominates Munich’s Marienplatz, for example, was cancelled, but Holiday cheer existed elsewhere; at the Viktualenmarkt and at smaller neighbourhood squares such as Wienerplatz, places where Glühwein was served and people gathered to celebrate. 

As a visitor, it was a simple matter of adjustments. For example, the Nürnburger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom restaurant has a “Stehausschank,” where customers buy a beer at a window located inside a side door to the building and then stand in the adjacent courtyard to enjoy it. Due to G2 rules, the Stehausschank was closed, but the workaround was easy, as it took ten seconds to walk to the front of the restaurant, find a seat under a heat lamp and order a beer from a waiter. It might not have been the Stehausschank experience, but it was a perfect Augustiner Bier just the same.

It was clear, though, that the merchants and people of Munich did not let the Covid Grinch steal their Christmas. Things might have taken a little extra time, or were done on a smaller scale, but not at the expense of enjoyment. If anything, the additional barriers were a reminder to be grateful for what was possible, a timeless lesson for all. 

RETURNING TO THE UNITED STATES

Flying back to the United States requires logistical discipline as travellers need a negative viral Covid test result within one day of the return flight. Some of the ubiquitous rapid tests do not meet the requirement in place, so I got a PCR test. The issue with the standard PCR test is that the results normally take up to 2-3 days to post. Therefore, you need to find a testing site that can return a same day result. I was told that are two such locations: one at the famed Deutsches Museum and the other at the Verkehrszentrum Museum (transportation museum), which is near Bavaria Park and the Theresienwiese, the Oktoberfest site. 

For those taking public transportation, the Verkehrszentrum Museum location is a four-minute walk from the Schwanthalerhöhe U Bahn station (lines U4 and U5). For individuals opting to use the Deutsches Museum test site, it is a ten-minute walk from the Fraunhoferstrasse U Bahn Station (lines U1 and U2).

I used this site to book a PCR test. The PCR test costs €75 and you need to keep the receipt as it will have the pin number that enables you to retrieve your test result via the service provider’s website. They will not send you the result via email or text. You have to access it online using the pin number on your receipt. Once you get the test result, download it and email it to your hotel’s Front Desk to print out so you can bring it to the airport and check-in for your flight.

There is drop-in availability for the PCR test with same day results, but there are no guarantees of availability. Therefore, it is best to make an appointment online first. If you have issues navigating, or aren’t traveling with a smartphone or computer, ask for assistance in making an appointment at the front desk of your hotel.

I used both testing locations, the Verkehrszentrum Museum in the Fall and the Deutsches Museum in winter. Be advised that the former is located on the back side of the Verkehrszentrum Museum entrance and the latter about 100 meters north of that museum’s main entrance, so don’t panic if the testing site is not immediately visible as you approach the location. In both places, the professionals who provide testing services are top-notch and can answer any questions in English if you don’t speak German.

FFP2 masks on sale in Marienplatz, Munich.

FFP2 masks on sale in Marienplatz, Munich. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Sven Hoppe

FINAL THOUGHTS, REMINDERS & RECOMMENDATIONS

Regulations can change at any time, so contact the airline close to the date of your departure from the United States, e.g. five days, to make sure that you are aware of the latest requirements to board your flight and enter Germany. 

Don’t forget #1, before you depart for Germany: register via the Digital Registration on Entry website. As noted, registration is only open three days in advance of your entry date, so set a reminder in your calendar with that in mind. Once registration is completed, the website will generate a three-page document for you to print so you can hand it to the Border/Customs representative when you enter Germany.

Keep up with the risk status of the US (or the country you’re travelling from) on Germany’s Robert Koch Institute list. 

Don’t forget #2, before you return to the USA: after receiving your negative PCR test result, download it and email it to the front desk of your hotel so they can print it out. You will need to show it to the airline in order to board your flight.

There is also an Attestation of vaccination document that Lufthansa recommended to fill out and have handy. I was not asked for it upon returning to the USA for either trip, but it is advisable to carry a copy with you, printing it out before you leave for Germany, and then filling it out upon your return. If someone asks for it upon landing, you will be prepared.

For those who are virus shy and are uncomfortable being in crowded places, a few conscious decisions of small dimensions can make a difference in your enjoyment of the travel experience. One idea, for example, is to eat at non-traditional hours, either early or late, to avoid large gatherings of people indoors. Gauge the ventilation when you enter the space. If it feels stuffy or poorly ventilated, leave and eat elsewhere. Also, avoid public transportation during commute hours as the trains, buses and trams can get crowded at those times.

A protective plastic encasement for your CDC issued card is worth sourcing. I bought one at CVS for $2.

The hospitality workers and service providers are the superstars who make our travels possible. If you can, try to tip those who serve you, even if it is not much money, as the utility of the gesture will yield far more than the value of the gratuity. Not only will people respond graciously to you, but your congeniality will help them pay it forward to the next guest they greet. 

Finally, never forget that the circulation of positivity is a gift that you can bring to each encounter, so smile and enjoy yourself. It’s the good kind of contagious!

TRAVEL CHECKLIST 

Items needed to travel from the USA to Germany and back:

Airline, USA to Germany: mask, CDC issued proof of vaccination + passport.

German Border Control: mask, proof of vax + passport + registration for entry papers.

Hotel: FFP2 mask, proof of vax + ID (passport or state issued driver’s license).

Sit-down dining, or bar: FFP2 mask, proof of vax + ID (passport or state issued driver’s license). Editor’s note: Under 2G-plus rules, vaccinated/recovered people need a negative Covid test or proof of a booster shot. 

Supermarket and other stores: FFP2 type mask (medical + cloth masks are not sufficient).

Airline, Germany to USA: mask, proof of vax + passport + negative Covid test (PCR).

American Border Control: mask, proof of vax + passport + attestation.

Member comments

  1. This has to be one of the best written articles of any kind that I have read in a very long time. Phil Schaaf should be commended.

  2. Some airlines/airports are misrepresenting Germany’s rules. My husband flew back from the US last week and showed his proof of full vaccination. They claimed Germany required a negative test as well. This is NOT true. He showed them the German government site in English where it was clearly not required. He showed then their own website where it isn’t required. The woman insisted and said it could be done right then and there for a “convenient” $300. What choice did he have? He had to come home. HIGHWAY ROBBERY!

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For members

CITIZENSHIP

‘Get in early’: Your tips for applying for German citizenship

Are you ready to apply for naturalisation in Germany? We asked readers about their experience applying for citizenship so far, and what tips they could share.

'Get in early': Your tips for applying for German citizenship

With Germany’s new dual citizenship rules officially coming into effect on June 27th, some prospective new Germans-to-be have been gathering documents and taking their language tests.

Yet, plenty of other candidates for naturalisation are still waiting to hear back about applications submitted months or even years ago.

The Local recently polled readers who were either already in the process of applying, or planning to apply for citizenship soon. Of 121 readers who took our survey, 81 percent intend to apply for citizenship compared to 12 percent that were still unsure.

Additionally, six percent said they will not apply, and the remaining few had already naturalised.

READ ALSO: What would German citizenship mean to foreign residents?

Here are some concerns and helpful tips from readers who have already started an application for citizenship.

How are current applications going?

Asked how the application process has been so far, those who have already applied or started putting together their applications had radically varied responses.

It seems that applying for naturalisation can be pretty straightforward or wildly frustrating, depending on where you live.

Some readers are having a relatively easy time with it, such as Nauman, from Pakistan, who notes that “in Berlin it is online, so all is good.” In the capital, the Landesamt für Einwanderung (LEA) opened up a central office at the start of the year and has entirely digitalised its processes, from the initial screening to the application itself. 

Not too far away in Brandenburg, Elshafie, who is 35 from Sudan, told The Local: “I’m getting quick responses by email – sometimes same-day responses.” So far Elshafie, who has lived in Germany since 2017 and is married with one kid, has secured an appointment for submitting papers in June.

Another reader also called out the ease of applying via a new digital portal. A 30-year-old reader who has lived in Germany for six years called the process “smooth”, adding: “I am lucky to be a resident of Hamburg which is one of the few cities that now have a digital application process.”

But even in places where a new, digital application process exists, people who applied prior to the digital process are sometimes left waiting while newer applicants . Such is the case for thousands of applicants in Berlin, many of whom have been waiting for years already.

READ ALSO: ‘I’ve waited four years’ – Foreigners in Berlin furious over German citizenship delays

“I applied in September 2023, and heard nothing back so far,” said Dilara, 30, a Turkish-born resident living in Berlin. As a bit of a sarcastic tip to other readers, she suggested applying as soon as you enter the country because “it will take years anyways”.

Dilara is not the only applicant left waiting without an explanation. In fact, a lot of readers had some choice words for the process, which in many cases can be very quite long and opaque. 

Daria, 26, from Russia said she applied in August 2023 in the city of Gießen. “They said to wait 20 months for the work on my application to start,” she told The Local. “Now they’re saying to wait 22 months. They don’t tell the name of the person in charge of my application and don’t answer any questions regarding my case. I think of suing them a lot.”

Another applicant consulted a law firm after the naturalisation office in Landkreis Harz said that they weren’t offering further consultations this year due to the high demand.

“I had my citizenship test and B1 language certificate ready. The last document I need now is my pension insurance history, and I just found out that the reason I don’t have it, despite requesting it twice, is that my address on file was wrong,” said Ryan Thomas Sanders, 35, from the US.

Even for those applying from outside of Germany, long delays with no communication seems to be the norm rather than the exception here.

Veronica Dierick, 66, said she handed in her application for citizenship by descent to the German Embassy in Belgium on March 5th and is still waiting for a response. 

A citizenship applicants reads the German constitution.

A citizenship applicants reads the state constitution in Germany. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Marijan Murat

Advice from readers: gather your documents and start early

Bureaucratic processes in Germany are known to drive people crazy – even plenty of native-born Germans. 

So in some sense, the fraught process of applying for citizenship can be seen as the last, painful but vital step, toward truly becoming German.

That said, it’s definitely worth taking any and all extra precautions to make the process as easy as possible. So with that in mind, here are a few tips that might help.

Daria, who is still in the middle of a long wait on her own application, recommends making copies of all of your documents before sending them in, noting that she regrets not having done so herself – both to retain her own copies and also as means of proof of when and what she had submitted. 

She added, “We’re sitting in the same boat. Try to apply as soon as possible… as later you’ll regret that you haven’t applied sooner.”

Ryan Thomas Sanders suggests getting your language certificate and citizenship test out of the way early, even if you don’t yet meet the residency requirement: “These are probably two of the most time-consuming documents and you can and should get them taken care of early.”

Dani, 34, from the US said, “Always ask your local Amt about their current rules because they often differ from what is happening in Berlin or other larger cities.”

Meanwhile, Jon, 34, who has lived in Germany for five years provided an unsolicited endorsement for The Local, adding: “Because of this site, I’m feeling prepared and informed. I have everything ready to go once the applications are accepted for dual citizenship in June.”

He added that applicants should “stay organised and allow extra time for each step like getting test results, documents from an employer, or translations of original documents.”

All of which is great advice, and is aligned with the advice told to The Local by immigration lawyer Andreas Moser, who advises making sure your application is as neatly organised as possible.

READ ALSO: EXPLAINED – How to get a speedy response on your German citizenship application

If you’ve met all the requirements, gathered all the papers, and presented it all as neatly as possible, the only thing left to do is wait and hope or pray for the best. 

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