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Five Star Movement sets its sights on Rome

Italy's Five Star Movement, the populist faction led by former clown Beppe Grillo, believes it is on the verge of transforming itself from protest vehicle to party of government, starting with a tilt at claiming control of Rome.

Five Star Movement sets its sights on Rome
Luigi Di Maio (L) and Beppe Grillo (R) are hoping that the 5 Star Movement can show its credentials by taking control of Rome Mayor's office. Photo: Andreas Solaro/AFP

At a weekend conference in the town of Imola, “Grillini” activists were in confident mood, buoyed by a recent upturn in their standing in the polls and their central role in ousting the mayor of the Italian capital.
   
“If we can take the mayor's seat in Rome, we will be governing the country inside 10 years,” Grillo told the conference in markedly more measured tones than he customarily employs.
   
Earlier this month, Rome mayor Ignazio Marino, a member of Prime Minister Matteo Renzi's Democratic Party, was forced to resign over an expenses scandal and a vote on his replacement is expected early next year.

Five Star surged from nowhere to claim 25 percent of the popular vote in Italy's 2013 elections. But the party then saw a dip in its fortunes as voters seemingly tired of its founder's strident, ranting style.
 
Support has picked up recently as Grillo has taken more of a back seat and pushed younger figures such as Luigi Di Maio, the 29-year-old deputy speaker in the Chamber of Deputies, to the fore.
   
An endless round of requests for selfies at the Imola conference told its own story about how the smartly-dressed Di Maio has become the leader-in-waiting of a movement that supposedly has no bosses and refuses to be seen as just another political party.

A crucial moment

Despite that, and its self-styled “post-ideological” character, the movement counts 91 deputies, 36 senators and 17 MEPs among its ranks, alongwith 11 mayors and around 1,000 local and regional councillors.
   
Activist Antonio, a 50-year-old from Naples who joined up after becoming disillusioned with the left, says the movement is at a crossroads.

“We are at a crucial moment in the history of the movement. What gets decided from now will be fundamental,” he told AFP.
   
The weekend conference saw Five Star take over Imola's legendary motorsport racetrack for debates on how to rebuild Italy and the European Union, which it does not regard with a favourable eye.
   
In theory the movement still supports withdrawal from the euro, but talks about the issue far less in the aftermath of Greece's bungled attempt to use the implied threat of withdrawal to renegotiate the terms of its debt with international creditors.

Five Star is a broad church. But where all the Grillini agree is in their shared mistrust of established politicians and their desire for greater transparency in a country weighed down by corruption, action in favour of the environment and a vaguely-defined sense that things could be organised more efficiently.
 
“If the movement has an ideology, it would be dignity,” sums up Raffaele Rossi, who hails, like many of the activists, from the impoverished south of Italy – in his case from Salerno, near Naples.
   
As with any opposition movement trying to make the transition to governing, the question of how to avoid power corrupting is an ever present one for Five Star followers.

Antonella Laricchia, 29, a regional councillor in Puglia on Italy's heel, says Five Star's own internal rules are a model.

No elected official can serve more than two terms and each salaried one has to pay half his or her salary to the party to finance support for small companies.

Founded online in 2008, the movement has not totally abandoned its vision of direct democracy.
   
Its guru on such questions, Gianroberto Casaleggio, reaffirmed at the weekend that all the party's candidates, including for prime minister, will be chosen by its digital network.
   
Di Maio and Roman deputy Alessandro Di Battista however stand out as leading lights of the movement and potential successors to Grillo.

“We know how to oppose things, now we have to show we also know how to govern,” Di Battista said. “And if we can run Rome well, we can do the same for the country.”

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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