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DISCOVER ITALY

Did you know…? There’s an Italian region that doesn’t exist

Forget Rome, Florence, or Venice... intrepid travellers can visit a whole Italian region that "doesn't exist".

A bell foundry in Molise - which according to a popular conspiracy theory, does not exist.
A bell foundry in Molise - which according to a popular conspiracy theory, does not exist. Photo by FILIPPO MONTEFORTE / AFP.

If you’ve ever been to the rural, rugged Italian region of Molise, no you haven’t: or at least, that’s what the many Italians who deny the region’s existence would say.

One of Italy’s lesser-visited regions, even some Italians have trouble remembering the name of Molise’s capital (Campobasso).

That’s perhaps partly because it’s the second smallest and second least populous Italian region after France-bordering Valle d’Aosta, with under 300,000 inhabitants: that’s less than one third of the population of the city of Naples.

It’s also Italy’s newest region: formerly part of the region of Abruzzi and Molise, which split off into Abruzzo and Molise in 1963, Molise really didn’t exist in its own right before then.

It wasn’t until the internet age, however, that the conspiracy theory took off, spawning the popular hashtag #ilmolisenonesiste (‘Molise doesn’t exist’) .

It’s since become something of a cultural phenomenon; the Facebook page Molis’t – I don’t believe in the existence of Molise today boasts 63,000 members. 

A view of the in the central Italian village of Agnone in Molise, Italy. Photo by Filippo Monteforte/AFP.

Locals are surprisingly good natured about the denial of their homeland’s existence: with a dwindling population and a need to boost tourism to the area, many take the view that any publicity is good publicity.

“‘Molise doesn’t exist’ is, in a way, a perfect brand,” local politician Simone Cretella told the BBC in 2019.

“It creates that curiosity that makes people want to discover our region, and when they do, they are always so surprised at how beautiful and diverse Molise is…We just need to get the message out there.”

Today, ‘Il Molise Non Esiste’ is trademarked by Italy’s Ministry of Economic Development to market the region, and you can order local produce from the brand Molisn’t.

If do decide to pay a visit to Italy’s non-existent region, you can expect to find peaceful beaches and mountains, pre-Roman ruins, and a unique food culture, with lamb-stuffed pasta shells and wines you’ll struggle to track down elsewhere.

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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