SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

ITALIAN HISTORY

Did you know…? You can visit St. Valentine’s skull in Rome

If you want a more offbeat activity for Valentine's Day than a candlelit dinner and a stroll around the Colosseum, try visiting the saint's skull instead.

You can visit St Valentine's skill in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome.
You can visit St Valentine's skill in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome. Photo by ANDREAS SOLARO / AFP.

If you’re in Rome this Valentine’s Day, you’ll have the option of paying your respects to the patron saint of lovers in person, at the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin near the Circo Massimo racetrack.

In a gilded glass reliquary inside the church, encircled by a crown of dried flowers, is what’s said to be the saint’s skull.

The crowds that regularly form outside the church, however, aren’t there for St. Valentine; most visitors come for the Bocca della Verità, or ‘Mouth of Truth’, mounted in the portico outside its entrance.

Featured in the 1953 romantic comedy Roman Holiday, the Mouth of Truth is what’s thought to be an ancient Roman manhole cover in the shape of an old man’s face, with holes for the eyes and mouth.

According to a medieval legend, anyone who tells a lie while putting their hand in the mouth will have it bitten off – making it one of Rome’s most popular sites for tourist photos.

That means that if you do decide to battle your way through the crowds to visit St. Valentine, you’ll likely have him to yourself.

READ ALSO: Did Valentine’s Day really originate in Italy?

Rome isn’t the only city that lays claim to the saint’s body parts, however.

There are around 12 other churches that claim to house the relics of St. Valentine, including a parish church in Chelmno, Poland, that says it has fragments of his skull.

Besides this, there’s his shoulder blade in Prague, and unspecified bodily remains in Dublin, Roquemaure, Glasgow and even Missouri.

The Vatican, for its part, hasn’t weighed in on the matter – so who’s to say whether Rome or Poland has the stronger claim (though it’s arguably more satisfying to visit an intact skull than a box containing pieces of one).

Aside from the question of where his remains are scattered, who the ‘real’ St. Valentine even was is widely debated – there are at least two third centuries Italian martyrs by that name and one from North Africa, and as many as ten are listed in the Roman Catholic register.

Whoever – and wherever – St. Valentine is, visiting his skull (or one of them) is definitely a memorable way to spend the day – and it’s one Valentine’s Day activity you don’t need to be partnered up for.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

SHOW COMMENTS