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Why does the Italian town of Ivrea hold a ‘battle of the oranges’?

Every year the town of Ivrea, in Italy’s Piedmont region, holds one of the most peculiar carnival festivals in the country as thousands of people take part in a ferocious three-day ‘orange battle’ – but why do they do this?

Battle of the Oranges
A view of the traditional Battle of the Oranges in Ivrea, Piedmont in March 2019. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP

Italy likes to go all out when it comes to carnival celebrations as towns up and down the country stage dazzling parades of papier-maché floats and a host of masked revelries in the days leading up to Shrove Tuesday, falling on February 13th this year. 

There’s one town in northern Italy however that likes to celebrate carnevale quite differently from the rest of the peninsula.

Located just north of Turin in the Piedmont region, Ivrea is a small town of around 23,000 people which normally enjoys an atmosphere of tranquillity and peaceful connection with nature.

But things are very, very far from tranquil during the local carnival festival as around 8,000 residents engage in a three-day ‘orange battle’ (Battaglia delle Arance), where nine teams of ‘orange throwers’ (or arancieri) on foot go toe-to-toe with ‘henchmen’ riding down the town’s main streets on shielded carts.  

Ivrea

Orange throwers (or arancieri) are pictured during the traditional ‘Battle of the Oranges’ held during carnival in Ivrea, Piedmont. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP

Contrary to what outsiders may be led to believe, the fight is no joke: over 600 tonnes of oranges (that’s over 4.2 million oranges) are thrown during the festival and dozens of participants every year seek medical attention from the on-site paramedics after suffering ‘orange-inflicted’ bruises and blows. 

READ ALSO: Beyond Venice: Eight other carnivals to visit in Italy in February 2024

But what’s really behind this ferocious (and oddly vitamin C-based) clash?

The origins of the tradition are to this day a little murky but seem to trace back to a late 12th-century revolt. 

According to local lore, Ivrea was then ruled by a tyrannical overlord who customarily abducted peasant women on their wedding nights and raped them.

One night however, a miller’s daughter (mugnaia in Italian) named Violetta managed to fight him off and decapitate him, starting a rebellion.

During the riots, peasants stormed the overlord’s palace and burned it to the ground.

Townspeople’s struggle for freedom is commemorated every year in the ‘orange fight’, where orange throwers on foot represent the rioting peasants, whereas those riding on carts represent the tyrant’s henchmen.

Ivrea

Orange throwers surround a cart during the ‘Battle of the Oranges’ in Ivrea, Piedmont. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP

The three-day fight attracts hundreds of visitors from all over Italy every year but is also regularly criticised over food waste and the welfare of the horses pulling the henchmen’s carts.

After each day of battle, the smashed oranges are collected and stored in a specific tank.

The fruits are then transported to a plant that takes care of their disposal by transforming them into compost and energy.

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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