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FRENCH HISTORY

As France woos India, two countries reassess their colonial history

Seventy years after France quit once hard-fought for territories seized from India, the dwindling influence of Paris on the bustling streets of Puducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry) is still reflected in language, architecture and cuisine.

As France woos India, two countries reassess their colonial history
Workers build a replica of the Eiffel Tower at a park in Puducherry, a former French colony in India. Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP

It is more than 8,000 kilometres from Paris to Puducherry, but some women dressed in colourful saris still chat in French, policemen wear the peaked kepi hats of the gendarme, and road signs mimic the famous blue and white enamel lettering of Paris.

As President Emmanuel Macron heads to New Delhi to celebrate Republic Day on Friday – marking the day independent India’s constitution came into force – Francophiles in Puducherry say the impact of France’s colonial rule was better than British brutality elsewhere in the country.

“Indians of Puducherry were considered as French nationals – culturally and legally,” said 96-year-old David Annoussamy, a former judge who served in the French court in the port city, using its colonial-era name.

“Nationality wasn’t about colour, it’s about knowing France,” the author told AFP, wearing a traditional Tamil wrap around his waist and speaking from his sprawling home with a tree-lined central courtyard.

“The main thing was to know French”.

Today, New Delhi and Paris celebrate growing ties, with France seeking to boost economic deals including already valuable military contracts with India, the world’s fifth-biggest economy and most populous nation.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi was guest of honour at France’s annual Bastille Day celebrations last July, and Macron is expected to be likewise feted this week in India.

The territory on India’s southeastern coast was taken by France in 1674 when the French East India Company set up a trading centre to exploit its rich spices and goods.

France only left in 1954 – seven years after India’s independence from Britain – and it took until 1962 for Paris to formally cede full sovereignty.

The former French trading post has since changed its name to Puducherry, an administrative territory also incorporating other French ex-colonial enclaves including Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam.

Together, 1.25 million people reside in the Puducherry territory, according to the last census in 2011, and most speak the Tamil language.

Just 5,000 French nationals live in Puducherry city today, the majority having Indian forebears who took citizenship from France.

Annoussamy took French nationality at the time of the handover, something he is proud of.

“Someone born in Paris or someone born in Pondicherry both had the same rights,” he said, speaking in fluent French. He counts Provencal-style bouillabaisse fish soup as his favourite dish.

“It’s a country we’ve adopted, and it’s become our country,” said Franco-Indian fashion designer Vassanty Manet, showing a black and white photo of her father when he served in the French army.

“We’re a population that looks Indian but has a French culture, and that’s what’s so special”.

Manet said she grew up with stories about France that “fed our imagination”, adding her uncle also fought for France during World War II in Algeria.

“We’ve never had any resentment towards France,” she said.

Unlike elsewhere in India, where there have often been wholesale name changes of streets to strip away Britain’s legacy and statues of London’s imperial leaders torn down, echoes of France remain.

A white marble statue of France’s patron saint Joan of Arc – who battled the English in the 15th century, just as the French fought British forces for control of Puducherry in the 19th century – stands tall.

The old French quarter – La Ville Blanche (White Town) – is a favourite with tourists for its colonial architecture with centuries-old mansions.

Elegant streets are adorned with bougainvillea-laden bungalows, with the aroma of freshly baked baguettes from cafes filling the air.

“They want to try French croissants, baguettes, pain au chocolat, lemon tarts and chocolate tarts,” said, Saloua Sahl, 44, who was drawn from France to set up a bakery.

And, in another sign of French ties, Puducherry is preparing to unveil a 13-metre high replica Eiffel Tower, said Chantal Samuel-David, an elected representative of the French community for southern India.

“The idea is to have a symbol of Franco-Indian friendship, a symbol that everyone here knows, that everyone in the world recognises,” she said.

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POLITICS

8 things you never knew about Andorra

The tiny statelet nestled in the Pyrenees mountains that mark the border between France and Spain hit the headlines with its new language requirement for residency permits – but what else is there to know about Andorra?

8 things you never knew about Andorra

This week, Andorra passed a law setting a minimum Catalan language requirement for foreign residents

It’s not often the tiny, independent principality in the mountains makes the news – other than, perhaps, when its national football team loses (again) to a rather larger rival in international qualifying competitions.

The national side are due to play Spain in early June, as part of the larger nation’s warm-up for the Euro 2024 tournament in Germany. Here, then, in case you’re watching that match, at Estadio Nuevo Vivero, are a few facts about Andorra that you can astound your fellow football fans with…

Size matters

Small though it is – it has an area of just 468 square kilometres, a little more than half the size of the greater Paris area – there are five smaller states in Europe, 15 smaller countries in the world by area, and 10 smaller by population.

People

Its population in 2023 was 81,588. That’s fewer people than the city of Pau, in southwest France (which is itself the 65th largest town in France, by population).

High-living

The principality’s capital, Andorra la Vella (population c20,000 – about the same population as Dax) is the highest capital city in Europe, at an elevation of 1,023 metres above sea level. 

Spoken words

The official language – and the one you’ll need for a residency permit – is Catalan. But visitors will find Spanish, Portuguese and French are also commonly spoken, and a fair few people will speak some English, too.

Sport

We’ve already mentioned the football. But Andorra’s main claim to sporting fame is as a renowned winter sports venue. With about 350km of ski runs, across 3,100 hectares of mountainous terrain, it boasts the largest ski area in the Pyrenees.

Economic model

Tourism, the mainstay of the economy, accounts for roughly 80 percent of Andorra’s GDP. More than 10 million tourists visit every year.

It also has no sales tax on most items – which is why you’ll often find a queue at the French border as locals pop into the principality to buy things like alcohol, cigarettes and (bizarrely) washing powder, which are significantly cheaper.

Head of state

Andorra has two heads of state, because history. It’s believed the principality was created by Charlemagne (c748 – 814CE), and was ruled by the count of Urgell up to 988CE, when it was handed over to the Roman Catholic Diocese of Urgell. The principality, as we know it today, was formed by a treaty between the bishop of Urgell and the count of Foix in 1278.

Today, the state is jointly ruled by two co-princes: the bishop of Urgell in Catalonia, Spain and … the president of France, who (despite the French aversion to monarchy and nobility) has the title Prince of Andorra, following the transfer of the count of Foix’s claims to the Crown of France and, subsequently, to the head of state of the French Republic. 

Military, of sorts

Andorra does have a small, mostly ceremonial army. But all able-bodied Andorran men aged between 21 and 60 are obliged to respond to emergency situations, including natural disasters.

Legally, a rifle should be kept and maintained in every Andorran household – though the same law also states that the police will supply a firearm if one is required.

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