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What you need to know about travelling in Italy this Christmas

Whether you’re flying to Italy for the holidays or are already there and plan on moving around by car, train or local public transport, there are some essential things you need to be aware of.

Tram, Milan
A tram rides in downtown Milan in February 2020. Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

Reduced local public transport 

Most local public transport companies in the country will operate on a reduced timetable (also known as orari festivi) over the holidays.

But the quality and frequency of services during the Christmas break will vary significantly between rural and urban areas, as well as between cities.

Areas that are usually served by just the occasional bus may well see stripped-to-the-bone services over the Christmas holidays. 

On the contrary, parts of the country that already have robust public transport networks tend to keep them fairly active over the holidays, including on key dates such as Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.  

In most major cities, daytime services will run on a relatively standard timetable, whereas a number of ‘minimum services’ (servizi minimi) will run in the late hours of the evening and at night. 

Venice, waterbus

A waterbus, or ‘vaporetto’, on Venice’s Grand Canal in October 2017. Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

In Rome, all bus, tram and metro services should run as normal on Christmas Eve until 9pm, with night buses kicking in from 11.30pm. Public transport services should then run from 8:30am-1pm and 4.30pm-9pm on Christmas day.

READ ALSO: Is Italy’s public transport running over Christmas and New Year?

Milan’s full holiday timetable can be found at the following link, whereas Venice’s Christmas timetable can be found here.

As a side note, while Italy has been hit with a series of public transport strikes over the past few months, there’s not much chance of major strike action being announced over Christmas.

That’s because Italian law bans unions from organising strikes which could have an impact (even indirectly) on the air travel sector on busy travel dates (known as ‘exemption periods’), including the period from December 18th to January 7th.

Pricey rail travel

Regional and local trains around the country tend to run on fairly reduced timetables over the holidays, especially on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, which is why passengers are advised to check the holiday schedules of the relevant rail operator well in advance. 

These can usually be found on the operator’s website or social media channels.

Milan, rail station

A man waits for his train on a platform of Milan’s Central Station in November 2005. Photo by FILIPPO MONTEFORTE / AFP

As for interregional and long-distance trains, they generally run on relatively standard timetables during the holidays, and even on Christmas Day itself you’ll find dozens of high-speed services connecting major Italian cities around the country.

But, while you may not have any trouble finding a train going from Rome to Milan or Milan to Florence over Christmas, tickets won’t come cheap.

According to a survey from consumer group Federconsumatori, train fares will be 20 percent more expensive on average during the holiday period, but the markup will be even greater on some routes in central and southern Italy.

For instance, travelling from Rome to Reggio Calabria will cost a whopping 84 percent more than usual over the holidays, whereas tickets for the Bari-Bologna route will be 72 percent more expensive. 

No air travel strikes

While strikes involving airports’ ground staff or airline cabin crews are far from being a rare occurrence in Italy, no such walkouts will take place over the Christmas holidays as Italian law bans any union-related demonstration impacting air travel from December 18th to January 7th.

This however does not mean that there won’t be any risk of disruption for passengers flying to or from Italy in the coming days.

Christmas is the busiest time of the year for air travel and, as tens of thousands of passengers are set to crowd airport terminals up and down the country, queues at check-in desks and baggage collections as well as potential flight delays cannot be ruled out.

READ ALSO: What are my rights in Italy if a flight is cancelled or delayed?

On this note, it’s worth reminding that, should your planned journey be significantly delayed or cancelled, you may be entitled to compensation under EU legislation.

Traffic jams

Italy’s motorways (or autostrade) rarely see much in the way of heavy traffic on regular weekdays or weekends, but that all changes around national public holidays, including, of course, Christmas.  

Though Italy’s State Police hasn’t yet released any official traffic forecasts for the holidays, motorists can expect to face at least some level of congestion this weekend, as hundreds of thousands of people are set to hit the road to reach their holiday destinations. 

Based on previous years’ events, the two days before Christmas Eve (that’s Friday, December 22nd and Saturday, December 23rd) and Christmas Eve itself should be the worst dates to travel on Italian roads, with traffic jams likely to build up from around mid-morning and only break up in the late afternoon.

Traffic

Cars sit in traffic on a congested road. Photo by Jure Makovec / AFP

The major motorways connecting the north of the country to the south, including the A1 Milan-Naples, A14 Bologna-Taranto and A24 Rome-Teramo, are the most likely to experience heavy traffic on Friday, Saturday and Sunday as many Italians will return to their hometowns to spend time with family and friends.

But state roads connecting major cities to popular holiday hotspots in the Alps and Apennines may also see some significant congestion on Friday and Saturday. 

Overall traffic conditions should improve on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, as most people will have already reached their destinations by then.

If you’re planning on travelling in the coming days, there are a number of resources that you can use to keep up to date with the latest developments on the road, including this live map from motorway company Autostrade per l’Italia showing road closures and traffic jams as well as the locations of the nearest petrol stations and service areas. 

Finally, it’s worth reminding that all vehicles circulating on Italian roads at this time of the year must be equipped with winter tires or, alternatively, have snow chains “on board”. Those flouting the requirement face fines of up to 338 euros.

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TRAVEL NEWS

Reader question: What will EES mean for foreigners living in Europe?

The EU's new Entry & Exit System (EES) of enhanced passport controls is due to come into force later this year, but among many questions that remain is the situation for non-EU nationals who live in the EU or Schengen zone.

Reader question: What will EES mean for foreigners living in Europe?

Currently scheduled to start in autumn 2024 (unless it’s delayed again, which is not unlikely) the EU’s new Entry & Exit System is basically an enhanced passport check at external EU borders, including a facial scan and fingerprinting.

You can find a full explanation of the new system HERE.

Travellers crossing an external EU or Schengen border for the first time will be required to complete EES ‘pre-registration’ formalities including that facial scan and fingerprinting.

There are, however, several groups exempt from EES and one of them is non-EU nationals who have a residency permit or long-stay visa for an EU country.

So if you’re a foreigner living in the EU or Schengen zone, here’s what you need to know.

Exempt

One of the stated aims of EES is to tighten up enforcement of over-staying – IE, people who stay longer than 90 days in every 180 without a visa, or those who overstay the limits of their visa.

Obviously these limits do not apply to non-EU nationals who are resident in the EU or Schengen zone, which is why this group is exempt from EES checks. They will instead be required to show their passport and residency permit/visa when crossing a border, just as they do now.

In its explanations of how EES will work, the European Commission is clear – exempt groups include non-EU residents of the Bloc.

A Commission spokesman told The Local: “Non-EU citizens residing in the EU are not in the scope of the EES and will not be subject to pre-enrollment of data in the EES via self-service systems. The use of automation remains under the responsibility of the Member States and its availability in border crossing points is not mandatory.

“When crossing the borders, holders of EU residence permits should be able to present to the border authorities their valid travel documents and residence permits.”

How this will work

How this will work on the ground, however, is a lot less clear.

Most ports/airports/terminals have two passport queues – EU and non-EU. It remains unclear whether the non-EU queue will have a separate section for those who are exempt from EES.

It does seem clear that exempt groups will not be able to use the automated passport scanners – since those cannot scan additional documents like residency permits – but should instead use manned passport booths. However it is not clear whether these will be available at all airports/ports/terminals or how non-EU residents of the EU will be directed to those services.

There’s also the issue that individual border guards are not always clear on the processes and rules for non-EU residents of the EU – even under the current system it’s relatively commonly for EU residents to have their passports incorrectly stamped or be given incorrect information about passport stamping by border guards.

Brits in particular will remember the immediate post-Brexit period when the processes as described by the EU and national authorities frequently did not match what was happening on the ground.

The Local will continue to try and get answers on these questions. 

READ ALSO What will EES mean for dual nationals

What if I live in the EU but I don’t have a visa/residency permit?

For most non-EU citizens, having either a visa or a residency permit is obligatory in order to be legally resident.

However, there is one exception: UK citizens who were legally resident in the EU prior to the end of the Brexit transition period and who live in one of the “declaratory” countries where getting a post-Brexit residency card was optional, rather than compulsory. Declaratory countries include Germany and Italy.

Although it is legal for people in this situation to live in those countries without a residency permit, authorities already advise people to get one in order to avoid confusion/hassle/delays at the border. Although EES does not change any rules relating to residency or travel, it seems likely that it will be more hassle to travel without a residency card than it is now.

Our advice? Things are going to be chaotic enough, getting a residency permit seems likely to save you a considerable amount of hassle.

Delays 

Although residents of the EU do not need to complete EES formalities, they will be affected if the new system causes long queues or delays at the border.

Several countries have expressed worries about this, with the UK-France border a particular cause for concern.

READ ALSO Travellers could face ’14 hours queues’ at UK-France border

Where does it apply?

EES is about external EU/Schengen borders, so does not apply if you are travelling within the Schengen zone – eg taking the train from France to Germany or flying from Spain to Sweden.

Ireland and Cyprus, despite being in the EU, are not in the Schengen zone so will not be using EES, they will continue to stamp passports manually.

Norway, Switzerland and Iceland – countries that are in the Schengen zone but not in the EU – will be using EES.

The full list of countries using EES is: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czechia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland.

Therefore a journey between any of the countries listed above will not be covered by EES.

However a journey in or out of any of those countries from a country not listed above will be covered by EES.

You can find our full Q&A on EES HERE.

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