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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Avoiding the crowds in Venice and what Italy’s ‘rientro’ really means

From enjoying a crowd-free trip to Venice to understanding the cultural significance of the 'rientro', our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

Dawn in Venice
St Mark's square, the Doge's Palace (left) and the church of San Giorgio Maggiore (rear) captured as the sun rises over Venice. Photo by Marco SABADIN / AFP

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox: go to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

September is here and il rientro is upon us, as Italian families travel back from their summer holidays, the cities fill up again, and the country prepares to return to school and work.

But while il rientro is often translated as merely the start of a new school year or the end of a holiday, it has a deeper cultural significance. Here’s more about what to expect this month as the national mood shifts:

Why ‘il rientro’ means so much more in Italy than a new school year

The summer travel season isn’t over just yet though, and popular destinations in Italy are still crowded at this time of year. Venice is probably the most famous example; the city will be especially busy in September too, as visitors arrive for a full schedule of cultural events including the annual Historical Regatta.

But if you’re planning a trip to the floating city soon, it’s easier than you might think to avoid the notorious tourist crush. From where you stay and how you get around to how you choose places to eat, there are a couple of very simple steps to making your trip to Venice a lot more enjoyable even in high season, as The Local’s reporter Giampietro, who was born and raised in Venice, explains in the guide below:

Five essential tips to escape the tourist crowds in Venice

Kicking off September: Venice's Historical Regatta.

Venice’s Historical Regatta will attract crowds of visitors this month. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

And as anyone who has moved to Italy (or any other country) knows, life in a new culture unavoidably means you pick up new habits and change your way of doing things.

If, like me, you moved from the UK to Italy, the changes are probably almost all positive: you’ll no doubt find yourself taking longer lunch breaks, drinking better coffee, and choosing from a seemingly endless selection of fresh fruit which actually tastes like fruit. Readers have also told us that they now dress better, take more naps, and no longer worry about the calorie content of their food – it seems that la bella vita really does exist.

But, in one unexpected and less enjoyable lifestyle change, I’ve found that I also now spend an awful lot more time cleaning. As well as the fact that warmer countries mean (much) more dust and more insects to keep at bay, if you have Italian friends, family and neighbours, the social pressure to keep a sparkling clean house is real. So I wasn’t too surprised to hear that a survey found the average Italian spends an hour and a half every single week just on cleaning the bathroom – longer than anywhere else in Europe. So where does this national obsession with cleaning come from?

Why do Italians have such clean homes?

Finally, from ‘che palle’ to ‘basta!’ expressing irritation or disappointment is particularly satisfying in Italian. Here are some of the phrases you’ll want to perfect for when the right moment comes:

Eight Italian exclamations that will make you sound like a local

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: The Italian regions with the best beaches and unlucky Friday 17th

From the cleanest beaches in Italy to some distinctively Italian superstitions, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

La Bella Vita: The Italian regions with the best beaches and unlucky Friday 17th

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or following the instructions in the newsletter box below.

From the Italian Riviera to the shores of Salento, Italy boasts some of the Mediterranean’s most unspoilt coastline – and the number of officially pristine Italian beaches recently increased.

Fourteen new towns this week had their names added to the Foundation for Environmental Education’s list of ‘Blue Flag’ beach destinations, the world’s cleanest and greenest stretches of coast.

To help visualise the latest rankings, we’ve created a map of the Italian regions with the highest number of Blue Flag beaches in 2024.

MAP: Which regions of Italy have the most Blue Flag beaches in 2024?

You may have heard of unlucky Friday the 13th, but in Italy, it’s Friday the 17th you really need to watch out for.

That’s because in Roman numerals the number 17 (XVII) is an anagram of the Latin word VIXI, meaning “I have lived” – the use of the past tense suggests death, and therefore bad luck.

You can find a list of some other quintessentially Italian superstitions, from spilling olive oil to touching iron, below.

Unlucky Friday 17th – and 12 other Italian superstitions to beware of

Black cats are to be avoided in Italy. Photo by Valeriano G on Unsplash

The Colosseum and Pompeii may be ranked among the world’s wonders – but that doesn’t mean they’re to everyone’s taste.

From complaints about the Colosseum’s lack of a roof to the Milan Duomo’s “gaudy and tacky” exterior and Pompeii’s shoddy street paving, some visitors leave Italy decidedly unimpressed by its most celebrated attractions.

We’ve put together some of the most scathing reviews from dissatisfied customers.

‘Not even that ancient’: The harshest TripAdvisor comments about Italy’s sights

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

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