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SPAIN EXPLAINED

Ten of the best documentaries about Spain

Want to learn more about Spanish history, culture, music and all those idiosyncrasies that make it so unique? These documentaries, some available to watch for free, offer true insight into what makes Spain the fascinating country that it is.

Ten of the best documentaries about Spain
The Silence of Others is among the best documentaries you can watch if you want to understand modern Spanish history.

El Silencio de Otros (2018)

If you’re looking for a documentary which illustrates the open wounds of the 1936-39 Civil War in modern-day Spain, look no further. Shot over a period of six years and produced by Pedro Almodóvar, ‘The Silence of Others’ follows family members of some of the victims of the bloody conflict and ensuing dictatorship of General Franco as they organise an international lawsuit against the country’s Pact of Forgetting.

Palomares (2021)

This three-part documentary series by Movistar+ tells the unbelievable story of how in 1966 two US military aircraft collided mid-air and mistakenly dropped four nuclear bombs over the small Almería town of Palomares. It’s a fascinating tale with interviews in English and Spanish that illustrate how poor and rural much of the country was fifty years ago, and how the Franco and US governments attempted to keep the locals in ignorance despite the life-threatening health risks. Here is an extract from the first episode.

Memoria de España (2000s)

This 27-part documentary series, each episode around an hour long, has everything you need to start becoming a Spanish history expert. RTVE’s Memory of Spain was made in the early 2000s and covers Spanish history in detail from prehistoric times, through to the Roman era, the Visigoths, the Moorish Conquest, the Reconquista and so on until the modern day. 

Even though it’s only in Spanish with Spanish subtitles, it’s completely free to watch on RTVE Play

Muchos hijos, un mono y un castillo (2017)

‘Lots of Kids, a Monkey and a Castle’ as it’s called in English is a fly-on-the-wall documentary directed by Spanish actor Gustavo Salmerón who captures the charming eccentricities of his mother Julita. It also acts as an homage to the strong character of Spanish mothers as well as showcasing family dynamics in Spain.   

Barcelona era un fiesta (2010)

Documentary exploring the life and death of Catalan counterculture from 1970 to 1980, illustrating how Barcelona had its own hippie rebirth which left its imprint on the city’s current rebellious and multifaceted nature. You can watch the documentary in full below.

Juan Carlos: la caída del rey (2023)

Showtime’s new four-part documentary miniseries sheds light on former Spanish King Juan Carlos I’s personal life and allegations of corruption and abuse of power, leading up to his abdication in 2014. Most interviews, including that with former lover Corinna Larsen, are conducted in English. A must for anyone looking to understand Spaniards’ current disillusionment with their monarchy.

I Need A Dodge! Joe Strummer on the run (2014)

In 1997 The Clash’s Joe Strummer puts out a call on Spanish radio to help people find where he parked his car in Madrid 12 years earlier. Director Nick Hall embarks on the pursuit of the former rockstar’s Dodge whilst interviewing a number of musicians and friends who spent time with Strummer during these challenging times in his career. It’s an entertaining biographical piece which is likely to strike a chord with many Brits who escape to Spain for a fresh start.

Héroes invisibles (2015)

The story of the Lincoln Battalion, a 2,800-group of US volunteers who fought for the Republicans during the Spanish Civil War – is fairly well documented. What isn’t so well known is that 85 of these soldiers were Afro-Americans (Invisible Heroes as the documentary’s title states) who joined the cause as a means of fighting fascism and standing up for their own rights and freedom back home. It’s available on Spanish film streaming platform Filmin

Camarón: Flamenco y Revolución (2018)

Camarón de la Isla, flamenco’s most illustrious male singer, modernised the Spanish gypsy music genre and was on his way to international stardom before dying of lung cancer at just 42. This biographical documentary is a must-watch for anyone who wants to better understand gitano culture and its most quintessential art: flamenco.

El Fin de ETA (2017)

Directed by seasoned documentary filmmaker Justin Webster, the Demise of ETA explains how the Basque separatist group came to down arms after years of violence and terrorist attacks, with interviews with some of key players in the process. Although it has no English subtitles, this documentary is available to watch for free on El País’s YouTube channel.

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DISCOVER SPAIN

A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

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