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DISCOVER DENMARK

How to spend 24 hours in Copenhagen

You've got a day and a night in the Danish capital. Where do you start? What do you see, what do you avoid? Emma Firth gives her top recommendations.

Copenhagen
Copenhagen. Photo: Abbilyn Rurenko, Unsplash

First things first, if you want to make the most of your short time in Copenhagen, hiring a bike will give you access and insights into the city. There are more bikes than cars on the road in Copenhagen so you won’t feel out of place.

Getting around

There are so many places you can hire these from, that you can probably find one in the area you are staying or setting off from. Other options include the mobile app pick up and drop off service Donkey Republic, or a city centre company like Rosenborg Cykler.

If you have children, you can hire cargo bikes (ladcykel), which are the bikes with a box at the front (Christiania and Nihola are some of the brands you can hire). They can feel very heavy, so electric versions (el ladcykel) will stop your day turning into a sweat fest.

Cargo bike rentals book up quite quickly, especially during the summer so book this in advance. You can also hire a bike with a child seat on the back, which is a cheaper and lighter option.

If cycling is really not your thing, the city’s metro, train and bus services are very quick and reliable. You can use the DOT services app to buy travel tickets, or use a ticket machine at a the metro and train stations. Be aware you can’t buy a ticket once on the mode of transport – it has to be done before.

Once you know how you’re getting around, map out the areas for your day. 

My recommended areas for those new to the city, would be Islands Brygge, Vesterbro, Nyhavn, Christianshavn, Refshaleøen, Nørrebro.

Copenhagen bikes

Cycling around Copenhagen is very safe and easy. Photo: Kristijan Arsov, Unsplash

Islands Brygge

If you’re up for a good day of cycling to see the best of the city, you could start the day here. If you really wanted to go for the full Danish experience, take a morning dip in the harbour, where there are five pools to choose from, including two for children. Then you can cycle over the iconic cycle-only bridge, Bicycle Snake (Cykelslangen) which takes you six to seven metres above sea level over to Dybbølsbro.

Copenhagen’s Cykelslangen by Dissing and Weitling. Photo: Anne Bæk/Ritzau Scanpix

From Dybbølsbro you can cycle through the Meatpacking District (a great place for food) and make your way towards the centre, passing Tivoli, Town Hall Square (Radhuspladsen) , through picturesque Ørstedparken and stopping at Torvehallerne for a refreshment. Here you will be spoilt for choice with lots of small stalls selling fresh produce, smørrebrød, and all things Danish.

Central Copenhagen

Although central Copenhagen is popular with tourists, it is also worth passing through on your 24 hours in the capital because it’s an area used by residents, as well as students so has a nice buzz and you won’t tire of its colourful charm.

Wander through Strøget, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, so dismount or park up your bike when going along it then cycle on the streets around it.

You can look up at the Round Tower (Rundetårn) or walk up it if you want. It has one big 200 metre ramp, followed by two small set of steps, making it child-friendly and fairly quick to get up and down. Tickets cost 40 kroner (around 5 euros) per adult and 10 kroner (1 euro) for children over five.

The Round Tower, Copenhagen

Inside The Round Tower. Photo: Sies Kranen, Unsplash

Cycling or walking past the Royal Gardens (Kongens Have), you may spot the Royal Guard leaving Rosenborg Castle at 11.30, as they make their way to Amalienborg, home of the Danish Royal Family. The changing of the guard takes place here everyday at 12pm.

Other sites to take in during your wander through the centre include Christiansborg Palace, where parliament sits. You can see this across the canal from Amagertorv. At Kongens Nytorv square you can see The Royal Danish Theatre (Det Kongelige Teater).

Then there’s Nyhavn – the iconic picture-perfect colourful canal. It is as pretty as it looks on Instagram but stopping at a cafe or restaurant here will come at a premium price.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen.

Nyhavn, Copenhagen. Photo: Andrew Kelly/Reuters/Ritzau Scanpix

Christianshavn

From Nyhavn, walk or cycle across the 180-metre long Inner Harbour Bridge (Inderhavnsbroen) – a pedestrian and bike-only link between the city and Christianshavn, which was built in 2016.

Stop off at a cafe in Christianshavn and enjoy views of the canal and if you are feeling adventurous, a climb up the twisted spire of Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) to get an impressive view of the city.

Our Saviours Church (Vor Frelsers Kirke), Christianshavn

Our Saviour’s Church, Christianshavn Photo: Nils Meilvang/Ritzau Scanpix

If Christiania has sparked your curiosity, you can safely cycle through this free town.

You can enjoy eco-restaurants, workshops, galleries and live music, while absorbing the interesting culture and architecture of the place. Be aware of the rules on Pusher Street, where cannabis is often illicitly sold. You aren’t allowed to take any photographs in this area.

Refshaleøen

For more food and drink, cycle a further 10-15 minutes to Refshaleøen, a former industrial district that has recently transformed into a creative space.

There’s an abundance of places to choose to eat and drink here. Reffen is an organic street food market where they reuse as much for their waste as possible. 

Reffen, Refshaleøen.

Street food market Reffen on Refshaleøen. Photo: Søren Bidstrup/Ritzau Scanpix

You can also get to Refshaleøen by bus (2A from Christianshavn or 9A from Nyhavn) or you can get the harbour bus 991 or 992. 

At Refshaleøen, you can experience the clean harbour water by taking a swim. On your cycle to or from here, take a look at the work of architect Bjarke Ingels’ CopenHill – the ski slope built on top of a waste management centre.

Dronning Louises Bro

To get here, cycle back through the centre via Inner Harbour Bridge, down Gothersgade and across Dronning Louises Bro. This is a bridge that links Nørrebro to the centre and takes you across the picturesque Lakes (Søerne). Cycling straight ahead out from the centre takes you to Nørrebro, left takes you to Østerbro and right takes you to Frederiksberg. It’s a beautiful stretch of bike lanes around the Lakes that are worth exploring if you have time.  

Dronning Louises bro. Copenhagen

Dronning Louises bro. Copenhagen. Photo: Linda Kastrup/Ritzau Scanpix

Nørrebro

Nørrebro was crowned the world’s coolest neighbourhood by Time Out in October 2021. Just cycling down its streets will make you feel cool.

Elmegade and Sankt Hans Square are full of activity and creative boutiques, bars and cafes. For evening food and drink, you can stay this side of Nørrebro and try out the organic restaurant and pizzeria Bæst (reservations will be needed), where they make their own mozzarella and cure their own meat. The nearby Brus is great for an evening craft beer. 

Elmegade, Nørrebro

Elmegade, Nørrebro Photo: Thomas Lekfeldt/Ritzau Scanpix

If it’s summer, it stays light until past 10pm so you can cycle or walk down Nørrebrogade and through Denmark’s most famous cemetery, Assistens Churchyard (Assistens Kirkegård), which is open until 10pm from April to September. Well-known Danes such as Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard are buried here. Cemeteries are not creepy places in Denmark and you’ll often find people having picnics or sunbathing in them. 

Assistens Churchyard, Copenhagen

Assistens Kirkegård, Nørrebro Photo: Unsplash, Beatriz Miller

From here, you are very close to the vibrant street Jægersborggade, where you can enjoy an evening drink at the underground wine bar Terroiristen. 

Ideally you’d have a bit of time during the day around this area because it’s great for food, drink, interesting shops and a brilliant playground in Nørrebroparken if you have children.

If you’re having a late night in Nørrebro, book your Airbnb here. Then in the morning head for breakfast either at Grød (if you like porridge) on Jægersborggade or Mad og Kaffe on Stefansgade. Then grab a takeaway coffee from specialty micro roastery The Coffee Collective and few pastries from Meyers Bakery for your journey home.

What didn’t make the cut

The above itinerary is ambitious but there’s so much more you can see. Here are a few extra highlights for another day:

  • Tivoli Gardens
  • Carslberg
  • Glyptotek Museum
  • A boat trip around the centre or kayak for free if you pick up litter along your way.
  • Frederiksberg Gardens
  • Cisternerne underground gallery at Sønderparken. Then walk through the park and find the viewing point to Copenhagen Zoo.
  • Louisiana museum of modern art
  • Get the train to Klampenborg or cycle if you’re feeling strong, to enjoy sea and sand at Bellevue Strand, nature and deer at Dyrehaven and then Bakken, the oldest theme park in the world, which has free entry and some charming restaurants inside.
  • Hellerup – one of the most expensive areas of Copenhagen but nice to cycle through to see the impressive houses, boutique shops, beach and park.
  • The Citadel (Kastellet) The buildings inside are used as military barracks but it is open to the public to walk through and take in the history of the area, founded by Danish King Christian IV in 1626.
  • The Little Mermaid. This is not far from the Citadel so worth combining the two. Prepared to be a little underwhelmed by the size of her but many people like to tick it off their list.

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TOURISM

Stay away! How Europe’s most popular spots are fighting overtourism

Tourist hotspots around Europe are on a crusade to deal with surging visitor numbers. Is it the end of mass tourism in Europe?

Stay away! How Europe's most popular spots are fighting overtourism

On Thursday April 25th Venice introduced a new €5 tourist charge for day-trippers as the city battles against mass tourism. But it’s not the only part of Europe that appears to have had enough of tourists.

Cities, towns, picturesque villages, national parks and World Heritage sites across Europe are taking measures to prevent overtourism.

Those moves are not without controversy.

Barcelona

Nestled on the coast of the Mediterranean, Barcelona is the capital of the Catalonia region, home to famed Gaudi architectural gems and one of Spain’s top football clubs.

Ada Colau, the leftist former housing rights activist who was mayor of the city between 2015 and June 2023, cracked down on illegal Airbnb rentals that were accused of pricing locals out of the property market.

The city also limited the entrance of tour groups in the historic La Boquería market, especially during peak shopping times.

And throughout the centre organised groups must be limited to a maximum of 20 people and guides are not allowed to use loudspeakers.

Tourist walk up and down Las Ramblas alley in Barcelona on April 13, 2024. – From the Balearic Islands to the Canary Islands, Barcelona and Malaga, anti-mass tourism movements are multiplying in Spain. (Photo by PAU BARRENA / AFP)

In 2023 tourist numbers registering in hotels, homes and hostels were down 6.9 percent compared with 2019 figures, according to the City Council.

However, Barcelona hasn’t completely rid itself of the problems caused by mass tourism, nor have other popular spots in Spain such as Málaga and the Canary Islands, where the spike in Airbnb-style holiday lets causing a rental crisis and other consequences of overtourism have angered locals

READ ALSO:

Venice

In Venice, one of the world’s top tourist destinations, 3.2 million visitors stayed overnight in the historic centre in 2022 — dwarfing the resident population of just 50,000.

On Thursday April 25th, it started charging day trippers for entry. Day visitors will have to buy a €5 ticket, monitored by inspectors carrying out spot checks at key points across the UNESCO world heritage site.

ourists take selfies with the Grand Canal

Venice begins on April 25, charging day trippers for entry, a world first aimed at easing pressure on the Italian city drowning under the weight of mass tourism. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP

In 2021, it banned huge cruise ships from Venice lagoon over concerns about the environmental impact of the huge liners on the city.

Venice has also introduced a tax for overnight visitors.

Sites in France

France too is worried about over-tourism – or rather that fact that so many of the country’s millions of tourists per year visit just a few sites – Paris, Mont-Saint-Michel and the Calanques national park near Marseille.

A publicity campaign has been urging visitors to consider heading to other sites, or to visit out of the high season – this winter the Paris Metro was plastered with posters urging people to visit Mon-Saint-Michel in the winter, when it is less crowded.

his long exposure picture tourists walking in the crowded main street of Le Mont-Saint-Michel, northwestern France, on July 25, 2023. Photo by Damien MEYER / AFP

There are more pro-active measures too, with several sites introducing a cap on visitor numbers. The Calanques, the islands of Bréhat and Porquerolles and several sites on the island of Corsica have all introduced annual quotes for tourists during the summer season, and all visits must now be booked in advance.

Other sites don’t have a formal quota but some are only open to pre-booked visitors, while for other popular sites it’s simply a book idea to book in advance to avoid being turned away. Anyone considering a visit to a tourist hotspot such as the Eiffel Tower, Louvre museum or Versailles palace during the summer is strongly advised to reserve their tickets in advance.

READ ALSO What places in France do I need to book a visit in advance? 

Amsterdam

Amsterdam has long been trying to clean up a reputation for rowdy stag parties, drugs and sex that has been partly blamed on an influx of around 20 million visitors a year.

In 2023 it launched an online campaign aimed at discouraging young British men from travelling to Amsterdam to get high or very drunk, telling them in typically blunt Dutch fashion to “stay away” or risk arrest.

Amsterdam also announced last week a ban on new hotels and that it would halve the number of river cruise ships in the city within five years.

It also decided last year to ban smoking cannabis on the streets of the red-light district.

Hallstatt and Salzburg in Austria

The tiny village of Hallstatt, a hamlet just 750 people strong not far from Salzburg and bearing a striking resemblance to the fictional kingdom of Arendelle from Disney’s Frozen – last year caused furore when its residents erected a fence at its famous vista to deter selfie-seekers. After a social media backlash, the village – which is also a UNESCO heritage site – removed the fence, but signs remind visitors to enjoy the site quietly.

Residents were also protesting in favour of tourism curbs in the village, which gets as many as 10,000 visitors a day in high season. They want to limit the numbers and ban tour buses in the town after 5:00 p.m.

Not far from Hallstatt, the city made famous by classical music, Hollywood classics and Christmas songs, Salzburg, has also complained about massive tourism and the danger of being “overrun by mass tourists and day trippers”. 

The city’s tourism boss Christine Schönhuber said: “We only want those who stay overnight”. The western Austrian city is yet to take any concrete measures, but it has floated ideas such as closing some streets to cars and putting restrictions on souvenir shops. The city is also considering closing the bus terminal at the city’s Mirabellplatz to day tripping companies – allowing only those transporting overnight guests.

Iseltwald, Switzerland

The quaint Swiss village of Iseltwald has been forced to limit the number of tourists after fans of a South Korean Netflix hit show flocked to the region in droves sparking a backlash from locals.

Iseltwald is often referred to as the pearl of Lake Brienz, and rightfully so. The fishing village is located on the left bank of the river and is one of the smallest communities in the canton of Bern – and locals would like to keep it that way.

A picture taken on June 2, 2023 shows the village of Iseltwald at the shore of Lake Brienz, in the Swiss Alps. Photo by Fabrice COFFRINI / AFP

Dubrovnik

Croatia’s medieval walled city of Dubrovnik is one of Europe’s most overcrowded cities, with the flow of tourists sometimes making it impossible to walk inside the historic Old Town.

The jewel of the Adriatic has seen a huge surge in visitor numbers since scenes from the series “Game of Thrones” were filmed on its ramparts in 2011.

In 2023, the town of 41,000 people received 1.2 million tourists, below 2019’s record of 1.4 million.

In 2019 local authorities limited the number of cruise ship arrivals to two per day, with no more than 4,000 passengers each at a time.

They also launched an app that uses machine learning and weather forecasts to predict when the Old Town, a UNESCO world heritage site, will be busiest.

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