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DISCOVER ITALY

Eight of Italy’s best book fairs and literary festivals in 2023

Italy has a wealth of cultural and literary events that take place each year; here are some of the best to catch in 2023 and beyond.

A visitor views a book on May 9, 2019 at the Turin International Book Fair in Turin.
A visitor views a book on May 9, 2019 at the Turin International Book Fair in Turin. Photo by Marco Bertorello / AFP.

If you’re a lover of books and culture, Italy is the place to be, with myriad cultural events, book fairs, and literary festivals held annually all over the country.

Most of these events require knowledge of Italian, though some feature at least a few talks in English.

There are dozens of festivals taking place up and down Italy this year. Here’s a small selection of just eight of the best fairs and festivals to attend in Italy in 2023 (and beyond).

NebbiaGialla Noir, Suzzara: 10th-12th February

This crime fiction festival takes place every February in the small town of Suzzura, outside Mantua.

Giallo is the colour yellow and also the Italian word for a detective or mystery novel (read more about the history behind that here) and nebbia is fog, so it’s a wordplay on yellow fog/fog of crime.

NebbiaGialla features author presentations and panels, creative writing workshops, and debates over aperitivi and dinners. It brands itself as small and family-like, in keeping with the small size of its host town.

You’ll notice this festival has already happened for 2023; but if crime is your thing, don’t fear, because there’s another crime-themed affair – Noir in Festival – scheduled to take place in Milan in December that covers books, films and TV shows.

Keep an eye out for next year’s NebbiaGialla festival here; find out more information about Noir in Festival here.

Testo Firenze, Florence: 24th-26th February

For those interested in book publishing, Testo Firenze offers a demystifying peek into this often inaccessible world.

The fair covers all the stages of the book publication process, from writing to illustrating, translating, publishing and selling, with guided tours around the fair stands and workshops on offer.

It’s held in the Stazione Leopolda events space, a former train station – picture more of a trade fair style environment than that of a cosy book fair.

More information here.

International Journalism Festival, Perugia: 19th-23rd April

As its name suggests, this is a journalism rather than literature-focused festival; but if that kind of thing is your jam, the IJF will tick all your boxes.

All the talks are free, and you don’t have to be a journalist to attend; simply rock up and take your seat in one of the many event spaces scattered throughout the town centre. There are talks in both English and Italian, and live translation is provided for the majority of them.

It doesn’t hurt that Perugia is a charming historic city with an idyllic hilltop location overlooking the green valleys of Umbria, and is particularly lovely in the spring.

More information here.

Turin International Book Fair, Turin: 18th-22nd May

Probably Italy’s most well-known international book fair (and certainly its largest), the Salone Internazionale del Libro Torino or Turin International Book Fair takes place every May, drawing several hundred thousand visitors to the Lingotto Fiere exhibition space.

Visitors view books on May 9, 2019 at the Turin International Book Fair in Turin.

Visitors view books on May 9, 2019 at the Turin International Book Fair in Turin. Photo by Marco Bertorello / AFP.

This is another commercial trade fair, attended by all the major Italian publishers; this year’s theme is Attraverso lo Specchio or Through the Mirror, an homage to Lewis Carroll.

The full 2023 programme won’t be out until April, but we do know it will feature the Nobel Prize-winning Ukrainian-Belarusian journalist Svetlana Alexievich as well as the Olympic medalist Federica Pellegrini’s presentation of her new autobiography, Acqua Azzurra (Blue Water).

More information here.

Una Marina di Libri, Palermo: June, 2023 schedule TBC

Held by the Palermo waterfront, Una Marina di Libri is a four-day independent publishing festival filled with readings, book presentations, discussions, workshops, theatrical performances, music, and activities for young children.

The event gathers the roughly 15,000 people who attend in parks and buildings around the marina and is usually given a theme; last year’s was dedicated to Pasolini.

More information here.

Taobuk, Taormina: 15th-19th June

Taobuk is a literary and cultural festival that also brings science, technology and philosophy into play.

It takes place in Taormina, an ancient Sicilian town popular with tourists that you can expect to attract even more crowds this year after it was used as the setting for season 2 of the hit HBO show The White Lotus.

Joyce Carol Oates, Azar Nafizi and Annie Ernaux are some of the big names featured on this year’s website. The overarching theme for 2023 is truth: talks cover such lofty issues as The future of Europe and How we know what truth is, as well as touching on AI.

More information here.

Borgate dal Vivo, Valle di Susa: June to Sept, 2023 schedule TBC

This cultural and arts festival was founded in 2015 with the idea of connecting small Alpine towns and villages across the Valle di Susa in northwest Italy.

Stretching over 80km, the Valle di Susa is one of the largest sections of the Italian Alps, making this one of Italy’s most widely geographically dispersed festivals. Last year’s took place in towns across Piedmont and Liguria.

Borgate dal Vivo’s remit is as broad as its geographical coverage is vast, encompassing book readings, sketches and plays, music concerts, circus acts, and children’s story enactments. 

More information here.

Festivaletteratura, Mantua: Sept 6th-10th

Festivaletteratura is one of Italy’s longest-running and most celebrated literary festivals, going since 1997. Expect readings, guided tours, concerts and performances.

The festival is mostly in Italian, but there are some English-language talks and events; for example, last year’s had the Northern Irish novelist Jan Carson give a talk on the works of Agatha Christie.

It takes place in event spaces across Mantua’s historic centre, giving attendees the perfect opportunity to explore this UNESCO World Heritage site.

More information here.

For a more exhaustive list of events, check out Glicine Magazine’s calendar, which they promise to keep updated with more events as they’re confirmed.

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ROME

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Whether you're a Rome resident or just passing through, the Eternal City has plenty to offer throughout the month of May.

The best things to do in Rome in May 2024

Circo Massimo Concertone – May 1st

Rome’s traditional Labour Day Concertone (‘big concert’) this year moves from its usual location in San Giovanni to Circo Massimo. Noemi and Ermal Meta are hosting the 2024 edition; entry is free.

Conca d’Oro street food festival – May 1st-5th

Ushering in the start of May, the Conca d’Oro neighbourhood is playing host to a five-day-long street food fair. 25 chefs will be present in the parking lot where this year’s festival is taking place.

Charity Cafe Jazz and Blues concerts – May 1st-4th

This intimate jazz cafe in the Monti district is hosting nightly Jazz and Blues concerts from 10pm from May 1st-4th. As of April 30th, the venue’s events calendar hasn’t been updated for May, but there’s typically something every Tuesday-Saturday.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Italy in May 2024

Photography exhibits – Various dates

At the Museum of Rome in Trastevere you can catch a series of photography exhibitions in May. A retrospective of the works of German street photographer Hilde Lotz-Bauer closes on May 5th; 100 works by the Spanish artist and photographer Ouka Leele will remain on display throughout the month; and a retrospective of Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba will open on May 17th.

Free museum Sundays – May 5th

As usual, Rome will be opens most of its museums and cultural sites to the public for free on the first Sunday of the month. That includes the Colosseum and Palatine Hill, Galleria Borghese, Castel Sant’Angelo, and many more (full list here).

Rome’s Borghese Gallery is one of the sites open for free on the first Sunday of the month. Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP.

Incanti illusionist show – May 2nd-5th

Following a stop in Grosseto, the Incanti (‘enchantments’) show of illusions comes to Rome’s Teatro Olimpico for four days before moving on to Florence.

Swan Lake orchestral concert – May 2nd-4th

The Santa Cecilia National Academy orchestra is putting on a performance of Prokofiev’s second piano concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake suite at Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 2nd-4th.

READ ALSO: Nine of the best events to attend in Italy in spring 2024

Baby Sound – May 4th-5th

Also in conjunction with performers from the Santa Cecilia National Academy, Baby Sound, a musical workshop for young children aged 0-2, will take place at Auditorium Parco della Musica from May 4th-5th.

Internazionali d’Italia tournament – May 6th-19th

The 2024 edition of the Internazionali d’Italia – Italy’s most prestigious tennis tournament – will unfold at Rome’s Foro Italico sports venue from Monday, May 6th to Sunday, May 19th, with Italian tennis star Jannik Sinner set to take part in the contest.

World Press Photo Exhibition – May 9th onwards

The 2024 World Press Photo Exhibition opens at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on May 9th and is set to run for one month until June 9th.

Arrosticini festival – May 9th-12th

The ex-Mattatoio events and exhibition space in Testaccio is preparing to serve up lamb/mutton arrosticini skewers and other traditional Abruzzese fare over the course of four days from May 9th-12th.

READ ALSO: Eight unmistakable signs that spring has arrived in Italy

Fava bean and pecorino fair – May 12th

Fava beans and pecorino cheese, a traditional Roman combo, are on the menu in the town of Filacciano, an hour’s journey outside the city, on this May 12th food festival.

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre fundraising dinner – May 24th

After a long hiatus, Rome’s Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre is starting up its fundraising dinners again on May 24th. This one features Syrian and Palestinian food supplied by Hummustown, and costs €30 (discounted rate €20).

ARF! comics fair – May 24th-26th

Another event taking place at the ex-Mattatoio in Testaccio in May is the ARF! comics festival, three days of exhibitions, talks, and workshops, including a kids’ corner.

It’s set to coincide with the Street Sud Festival featuring southern Italian street food, which is also scheduled to take place at the Mattatioio from May 23rd-26th.

Japan Days – May 25th-26th

Prati’s bus depot plays host to this Japanese market, where you can expect to find 100 exhibitors selling items from kimonos to kokeshi dolls, along with talks and presentations bonsai workshops and an abundance of Japanese food.

Recurring events

Campagna Amica sells locally grown fresh produce every Saturday and Sunday on Via di San Teodoro 74.

The Porta Portese flea market, which takes place every Sunday, is one of the largest (and busiest) the city has to offer.

Performances Verdi’s La Traviata, The Three Tenors, Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Bach’s masterpieces continue to be held on various dates at St Pauls Within the Walls throughout the month of May.

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