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ZARA

New era for Spain’s Zara empire as Ortega heiress takes over

Marta Ortega on Friday took the reins of Zara-owner Inditex, the group founded by her father, and faces an immediate challenge after the fashion giant closed shops in Russia, its second biggest market.

(FILES) In this file Founder and chairman of the Inditex fashion group Amancio Ortega (R) laughs with his daughter Marta Ortega. Photo taken July 31, 2016.
Founder and chairman of the Inditex fashion group Amancio Ortega laughs with his daughter Marta Ortega at the A Coruna International Show Jumping competition in Arteixo, on July 31, 2016. Photo: MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP

With neither fanfare nor ceremony, the 38-year-old daughter of multibillionaire Amancio Ortega took over the world’s biggest fashion retailer and its 6,500 shops.

“I begin this stage…with a deep sense of responsibility,” Ortega wrote in a letter to the 174,000 employees of the group, which has eight brands including Massimo Dutti, Bershka and Stradivarius.

“I ask for your support and patience while I continue to learn from everyone every day,” she added.

The youngest of Ortega’s three children, she was in charge of design and product launches across all of Inditex’s brands before becoming chairwoman on Friday, taking over from Pablo Isla who had run the group since her father retired in 2011.

As her father’s right hand, Isla oversaw Inditex’s massive international expansion over the past decade.

Marta Ortega’s promotion has been on the cards for several years but was only announced at the end of November as part of a reorganisation engineered by her father, now 86.

Anna Wintour, Marta Ortega and Diane von Furstenberg attending the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund 2019 Awards at Cipriani South Street in New York City on November 5, 2019 .

Anna Wintour, Marta Ortega and Diane von Furstenberg attending the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund 2019 Awards at Cipriani South Street in New York City. Photo: Jamie McCARTHY / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA / AFP
 

“We’ve been preparing for this transition for a while,” said Isla at the time. “Marta has been working in the company for 15 years … she knows it very well”.

‘Very well prepared’ 

Described as discreet and reserved, Marta Ortega was born on January 10, 1984 to the billionaire and his second wife Flora Perez, growing up in La Coruna in northwestern Spain with her half-sister Sandra and half-brother Marcos.

After attending a Swiss boarding school and graduating in 2007 from the European Business School in London, she briefly worked on the shop floor at a Zara store in the British capital to understand how things operate.

Although she never said she was the Inditex owner’s daughter, her colleagues told El Pais newspaper they quickly figured it out after noticing her Rolex watch.

“The first week, I thought I was not going to survive. But then you get kind of addicted to the store” she told The Wall Street Journal in a rare interview in August 2021.

When her appointment was initially announced in November, it caused concern in the business community, triggering a fall in the company’s share price but such fears appear to have evaporated.

Although she has never held an executive role at Inditex, she is “well prepared” and will be “surrounded by good people” said Alfred Vernis, professor at Spain’s ESADE business school and a former Inditex executive.

Working with her is Oscar Garcia Maceiras, who recently took over as chief executive of Inditex barely a year after joining the group from Spanish banking giant Santander.

“He will be the one who takes executive decisions,” said Vernis.

A difficult moment

The change at the top comes at a pivotal time for the Galicia-based company which has chalked up record profits in recent years but is now facing one of its most difficult moments.

People pass by a Zara shop in Barcelona on January 7, 2017.

People pass by a Zara shop in Barcelona on January 7, 2017. Photo: JOSEP LAGO / AFP

Worth some 62 billion euros, Inditex nearly tripled its profits last year to 3.2 billion euros, but its outlook for 2022 has been overshadowed by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

At the start of March, the retail giant suspended all retail activity in Russia, its biggest market after Spain, shutting its 502 shops and suspending all online transactions.

The move is likely to have a significant impact on its results, with the Russian market accounting for nearly 10 percent of sales.

“The current financial year promises to be very complex, due to Inditex’s exposure in Russia and the rest of Europe” and “rising production costs” caused by record inflation, Credit Suisse said in a note.

Founded in 1985 by Amancio Ortega, Inditex must also strengthen its online offering in the face of stiff competition from other retailers.

Above all it must step up its “green transition” in order to reduce its environmental impact, which is huge.

“Pablo Isla was doing it but not enough,” said Vernis, indicating such an essential step “would cost” the company.

Shares in Inditex closed up 1.67 percent at 20.11 euros.

READ ALSO: Zara founder Amancio Ortega enters renewable energy sector

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FASHION

Spain’s Mango clothing chain ramps up global expansion

Spanish fashion retailer Mango, founded 40 years ago in Barcelona, is ramping its global expansion with 500 new shops projected across the world by 2026, include huge stores in the US, the UK and India.

Spain's Mango clothing chain ramps up global expansion

After a slowdown sparked by the Covid-19 pandemic, the family-owned company has in recent months inaugurated several large stores around the globe.

They include a 400-square-metre (1,300-square-foot) space in Los Angeles, a similar-sized one in Manchester, England, and a flagship store in India’s tech hub of Bengaluru.

Mango has opened a total of 115 stores over the past year, mainly in the United States where its sales outlets have tripled, the company’s global retail director, Cesar de Vicente, said in an interview with AFP.

It has more than 2,700 stores in over 115 countries, compared to nearly 6,000 worldwide for Zara-owner Inditex, Spain’s other clothing retail success story.

The expansion has helped boost turnover with Mango expecting to post over €3 billion ($3.3 billion) in sales in 2023 – a record – when it announces its yearly results on Monday, De Vicente told AFP as he stood in front of prototypes of new garments at the company’s sprawling headquarters in a Barcelona suburb.

It is at this building – dubbed the “campus” – that the textile group which employs 500 stylists designs and tests its future collections.

The company sells nearly 160 million items of clothing and accessories a year.

Star ambassadors

Mango traces its origins to 1984 when a young man of Turkish origin, Isak Andic, opened his first shop on the Paseo de Gracia, Barcelona’s famous shopping street, with the help of his older brother Nahman which was hugely successful.

Spain had just emerged from a decades-long dictatorship which ended with the death of General Francisco Franco in 1975 and consumers were hungry for more modern clothes.

“He saw that we needed colour, style,” said De Vicente.

Andic quickly opened dozens of more stores in Spain and then abroad, starting in neighbouring Portugal and France, all under the name Mango.

To help boost sales the company has hired big stars such as British model Kate Moss, Spanish actress Penelope Cruz, and French footballer Antoine Griezmann for its marketing campaigns.

Like its main domestic rival Inditex, the world’s biggest fashion retailer whose other store brands include Bershka and Pull&Bear, Mango strives to quickly adjust its production to the latest fashion trends while offering affordable prices.

The two groups “have many similarities” because they “developed at the same time” but there are some significant differences, said Marcel Planellas, a strategy professor at Barcelona business school Esade.

Mango has just a single brand and it does not own any factory, outsourcing its production mainly to lower-cost Turkey and Asia, he added.

500 new stores

The company, which employs some 14,000 people and aims to differentiate itself from low-cost brands such as Shein and Primark by accelerating its move upmarket, will present its new strategic plan on Monday along with its annual results.

It is expected to confirm its international ambitions, with 500 new stores planned by 2026.

These openings will mostly take place in the United States, the UK and France, the group’s second-largest market after Spain, said De Vicente.

This dynamism contrasts with the sluggishness seen elsewhere in the sector in Europe where US retailer Gap has closed shops and French retail clothing company Camaieu, which made and sold its own collections of women’s fashion, closed down at the end of 2022.

Mango enjoys a “solid situation” unlike some of its competitors, said Planellas, who predicts the company will list on the stock market in the coming years as Inditex did in 2001.

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