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AUSTRIAN TRADITIONS

What you need to know about carnival in Austria

Also known as 'Fasching', carnival in Austria is celebrated with events, parades and some very special food. Here's what you need to know about the festivities.

Austrian folk group Schellenschlager member in costume
Costumes and masks are everywhere at Austria's carnival events. AFP PHOTO/JOE KLAMAR

Carnival is a festive period celebrated worldwide, and even if some of the most traditional or famous parties happen in Rio, Cologne or Venice, Austria also has its share of great (and old!) traditions and symbols. 

The carnival period in Austria has no fixed days, as it’s determined by when Easter falls, like in other countries. In Austria, the celebrations typically happen from the Saturday before Shrove Tuesday to Ash Wednesday – this year that’s Saturday, February 10th until Wednesday, February 14th. 

The dates may vary, but the much-beloved traditions tend to stay the same with many focused on “scaring away” winter and welcoming spring. 

Carnival food

It has to be apricot jam

These jam-filled doughnuts are a symbol of carnival. The typical Viennese Faschingskrapfen will have a sticky apricot jam inside, and this filling should make up at least 15 percent of the entire doughnut, according to strict Krapfen standards. 

READ ALSO: Everything you need to know about Faschingskrapfen

Krapfen is also an excellent example of the differences between German and Austrian German. For instance, in an Austrian bakery, it’s best not to call the Krapfen by its German name: Berliner Pfannkuchen.

But there’s a lot more to carnival than food; for many people, carnival just wouldn’t be carnival without the dressing up.

At the peak of the celebrations, usually on Faschingsdienstag (Shrove Tuesday), there are several parties all over the country, with many people donning all kinds of witty and creative costumes and intricate masks informed by local traditions.

But while the celebrations share a common theme, events differ across the country with each Austrian state having its own traditions. 

Traditions around Austria

Styria, for example, is known for its annual carnival race, the Faschingsrennen, where participants wearing traditional costumes run up to the highest spot in town to “scare away the winter” – loud noises are part of the scare tactics, of course. 

Tyrol has some rather eyebrow-raising traditions, featuring figures like “Roller” (named after the costume’s rotating bells) or “Scheller” (who carries big bells). The two different characters symbolise elegance and strength and wear massive crowns while walking around loudly ringing the bells on their belts.

The traditional masked Schleicherlaufen parade is also in Tyrol and is held every five years. The “Schleicher” are the 40 men who parade in huge hats, some of which weigh as much as 8 kilogrammes.

The parade has taken place in the state since 1890 and was given Unesco World Cultural Heritage status in 2010. 

Some local events, such as the Blochziehen, take place only every four years – the last one was in 2023. Here, masked villagers carry a 30-metre-long pine log through town to symbolise the coming of spring. 

Tyrol has so many quirky events that it would be hard to list them all, but the Wampelerreiten in Axams near Innsbruck is also very popular, with the Wampeler (meaning fat-belled) – young men wearing black hats, masks and padded white shirts – taking part in a battle against the Riders who try to dirty the Wampeler’s white shirts.

According to tradition, the fewer shirts that get soiled in the battle, the better the harvest will be.

Vorarlberg is famous for its Feldkircher Fastnachtsumzug, a procession of people wearing brightly coloured costumes who welcome spring with loud singing and traditional songs. They scare away winter using torches creating beautiful visuals. 

Upper Austria is known for the Ebensee Carnival Parade, which takes place on the Monday before Shrove Tuesday. The procession is attended by people wearing older women’s clothes, a rag hat, and a creepy-looking wooden mask. It’s all in good fun, though, and the celebrations usually last until late at night – the party and festival became a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2011.

Carinthia is home to the Villacher Fasching with parties that are even broadcast by Austrian TV channel ORF. You will often hear the traditional carnival exclamation “Lei Lei!,” based on traditions from Middle Ages and similar to the famous “Alaaf!” in Cologne. 

Couples line up at the annual Opera Ball in Vienna, Austria on February 20th, 2020. (Photo by JOE KLAMAR / AFP)

Vienna’s carnival typically coincides with the capital’s ball season. The city may not be home to the old carnival traditions of Austria’s western villages, but there is still much beauty and entertainment to be seen and had here.

The most famous ball is the Vienna Opera Ball, which has been held in the Vienna State Opera House for over 60 years. Every Viennese will tell you that this is the “world’s most beautiful ballroom,” with debutant couples dancing and more than 5,000 guests attending. 

The Krapfen is also most famous in Vienna and it is consumed in copious quantities here. It’s a tradition that’s taken seriously, too, and the pastries are expected to have at least six fresh egg yolks in every kilogramme of flour, the only way for it to be fluffy on the inside but crispy on the surface – just as it should be.

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WHAT'S ON IN VIENNA

What’s open and what’s closed on Ascension Day in Austria?

On Thursday it is Ascension Day, or Christi Himmelfahrt in German, one of the many May public holidays this year. Here is what is going on in and around the capital, and what will be closed.

What’s open and what’s closed on Ascension Day in Austria?

This year, Ascension Day, or Christi Himmelfahrt, a national holiday in Austria, falls on May 9th. Many people working in Austria take the holiday as an opportunity to enjoy a longer weekend by also taking Friday off.

Ascension Day is a Christian celebration that honours the belief that Jesus ascended into heaven. It takes place 40 days after Easter Sunday and always falls on a Thursday. According to Christian tradition, this day signifies the end of Jesus’ time on Earth and his return to heaven.

In Austria, Ascension Day is marked by different local traditions. Villages host processions, and in rural areas, people walk through fields during the “days of supplication,” usually on Mondays, Tuesdays, or Wednesdays. These processions have been part of the tradition since the sixth century.

Many churches all over Austria hold special masses to celebrate the day. In some, the occasion is celebrated with a custom where a statue of the resurrected Jesus is pulled through a hole in the ceiling and up into the church’s attic.

READ ALSO: Everything that changes in Austria in May 2024

What is happening in and around Vienna?

Ascension Day offers a great opportunity to spend some relaxed time with friends and family. If you want to follow tradition, you can enjoy some poultry, which is typical to eat in Austria on this day.

If you live in Vienna, you can spend the holiday exploring some of the events taking place in the city.

The day marks the start of the Steffl Kirchtag festival (May 9th to 20th), held at Stephansplatz in the heart of the city. Here, you can find arts and crafts, stalls offering food and drinks, music, performances, and concerts.

If you want to enjoy some culture, you should check out the many interesting exhibitions and festivals currently happening in Vienna.

For example, the exhibition Smart World at the Vienna Museum of Technology is open for visitors and explores how artificial intelligence is changing our world. The ongoing festival Klima Biennale Wien is also open to the public and focuses on climate change through various exhibitions and performances.

If you are interested in enjoying a musical, the first performance of The Sound of Music at the Vienna Volksoper is scheduled for this day.

You can also celebrate the occasion and the morning off by enjoying the night before at the Gürtel Connection. This event takes place in 14 different bars along the Gurtel, the major avenue surrounding the inner city. The evening offers 50 different gigs and performances and you can spend as much as you like on the entry.

Most bars open their doors around 7pm and you can find out more about the event on their website.

If you instead want to spend time in nature without going too far away from the city, enjoying the day in the Vienna Woods, Wiener Wald, is a great idea. If you want to do some exercise while enjoying great views, you can explore some of the many city hikes, known as Stadtwanderweg, which you can read more about here.  

If you are up for a slightly longer journey, you can reach many interesting places with a short train ride. You can explore some great destinations to visit here.

 
 
 
 
 
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READ ALSO: 4 beautiful lakes you can easily reach from Vienna by public transport

What will be closed?

As Ascension Day is a public holiday in Austria, banks, post offices, supermarkets, and general medical practices will be closed. Most pharmacies will also be closed, except for those functioning as emergency pharmacies, which will remain open during the holiday. You can find a list of these pharmacies here.

Hospital emergency departments will be open if you need medical care. Additionally, each region offers a holiday on-call service (Wochenend—und Feiertagsbereitschaftsdienst) if you prefer not to go to the hospital. You can call 141 for medical services during holidays, such as a doctor’s visit or to obtain certain medications.

Public Transport

During the holiday, public transport will continue operating in Vienna and all over Austria, although sometimes with a reduced timetable, similar to that on Sundays.

In Vienna, trams, metros, and buses run with slightly reduced timetables. Here you find more information on the timetable for different lines, click here.

Mainline train services often run with a near-normal timetable. You can check out the timetable for ÖBB here.

READ NEXT: Eleven unmissable events in Austria in May 2024

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